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  #1  
Old 06-08-2017, 07:17 PM
AcornHouse AcornHouse is offline
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Default Inlay in wenge

I'm thinking of using a wenge headplate in my latest build. Anyone have any experience routing for inlays in it? I know it can be a very splintery wood, don't want a lot of chipping/splintering when I'm routing.
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Old 06-08-2017, 08:19 PM
charles Tauber charles Tauber is offline
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It has "bottomless" pores. If you are planning on having a smooth finish on it, you'll need multiple applications of a pore filler.

Wenge is brittle, but will inlay adequately with sharp tools.
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Old 06-08-2017, 08:34 PM
mirwa mirwa is offline
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If I use wenge, I seal the surface first with a UV gel, this reduces the splintering when routing it for inlays or shaping.

Its not the first choice I would use as a headplate.

Steve
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Old 06-09-2017, 05:31 AM
AcornHouse AcornHouse is offline
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Charles, I prefer a natural feel and don't pore fill.

Steve, I'm not committed to it. I picked it up cheap from an LMI sale, so I may go another way. It's a walnut/Sitka parlor and thought a little change from all the walnut (the neck is walnut too) might be nice.
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  #5  
Old 06-10-2017, 11:28 AM
AcornHouse AcornHouse is offline
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I decided to give it a go anyway (I could always use something else if it didn't go well.) The inlay routing wasn't too bad. The only problem happened while routing the headstock to form the next day. A little operator error required a little adjustment of the shape at the sander; a little more Danelectro-y than I intended, but it works. I beveled the edges to avoid any splinter issues.
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G&L '93 Legacy
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  #6  
Old 06-10-2017, 07:37 PM
mirwa mirwa is offline
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Not to bad, you can see what we mean by it tears out easily, around your tuner holes a little bit of fill may be needed, so a bit of dust and epoxy will cover these in fine.

Steve
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  #7  
Old 06-10-2017, 08:02 PM
AcornHouse AcornHouse is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mirwa View Post
Not to bad, you can see what we mean by it tears out easily, around your tuner holes a little bit of fill may be needed, so a bit of dust and epoxy will cover these in fine.

Steve
Ferrules should cover those.
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  #8  
Old 06-11-2017, 12:19 AM
mirwa mirwa is offline
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Agreed, but also use it as an opportunity to increase your skills.

Mix some dust and epoxy and drip fill the areas.

One of the reasons it tore out is drill bits have a high rake with two cutting faces, when I drill tuner holes, I will predrill say a 10mm hole with a 7mm drill bit, and then using a tapered reamer open that up to 9.8mm and then follow up with a straight 10mm reamer, gives a clean solid edge.

Something for thought value.

Steve
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  #9  
Old 06-11-2017, 03:44 PM
AcornHouse AcornHouse is offline
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I still have to drill for the ferrule's width. I have the Stewmac bit for that. These are just the 1/4" holes for the shafts.
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'56 A-50, '57 CE-100, '60 X-150, '62 F-20, '64 Mark II, '65 SF IV, '75 F-112, '75 Mark IVP, '90 Pilot, '93 X-500, '97 Bluesbird
Acorn House Guitars
Parlor #1, Butternut Deuce, Rounder, Kulakeiki
G&L '93 Legacy
Lute '03 Lyn Elder
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