Is It Really All Set Up?

[Norml]

People also seem to forget that all string sets of the same gauge are not created equal. Different manufactures use different alloys and most importantly different core to wrap ratios. Two d strings of the same overall gauge can have very diffferent core sizes, making one feel much stiffer.

I recently took off a set of Thomastik infeld strings (.012-.054 roundcore PB) and replaced them with Gibson Masterbuilts (.012-.053 hexcore 80/20) and the Gibson strings are significantly easier to fret/play.

[Dominick]

Originally Posted by fishstick_kitty

One factor that people overlook in the "ease of playability" department is nut slot adjustments. If you are playing alot of open chords or stuff near the nut, and the slots are too high, then that GREATLY affects how the guitar feels (e.g. it takes much more downward pressure from your left hand to play the chords clean).

Also...obviously...action height at the 12th fret.

Please heed these words of wisdom. Poor setup, especially at the nut, has turned off many a player and potential buyer. Nearly every new from the factory guitar I've played was in need of a proper setup for my playing style. Knowing it is crucial, be sure to tell your setup guy your specific style of play, or better yet play a song or two for him. When done right, it is money well spent.

[DanPanther]

Personally I do not see a major advantage to ultra heavy strings. Ultra lights are very easy to play.
Dan

[Bunny64]

Originally Posted by Mycroft

Before you pay for the new nut, you might try knocking the old one out first and shim it with a bit of cardboard from a business card first, to see if you like the difference. Then have the new nut cut to fit what you like.

Okay thanks for the tip. Appreciated.

[DenverSteve]

Originally Posted by Mycroft

Before you pay for the new nut, you might try knocking the old one out first and shim it with a bit of cardboard from a business card first, to see if you like the difference. Then have the new nut cut to fit what you like.

If you feel a desire to shim the saddle at least use a proper shim and nod cardboard or a business card. Very poor choices for sound transfer.

[MBE]

Originally Posted by Dominick

Please heed these words of wisdom. Poor setup, especially at the nut, has turned off many a player and potential buyer. Nearly every new from the factory guitar I've played was in need of a proper setup for my playing style. Knowing it is crucial, be sure to tell your setup guy your specific style of play, or better yet play a song or two for him. When done right, it is money well spent.

Absolutely. String height at the nut can make or break open chord playability. I've seen plenty of instruments that were slotted for lights, and subsequently had mediums put on them without slotting the nut for them - and you wonder why some people who "try" mediums feel they make the guitar so much harder to play. I suspect it is often not merely the added tension - it's the overlooked nut.

[MBE]

Originally Posted by PastorSteve

If you feel a desire to shim the saddle at least use a proper shim and nod cardboard or a business card. Very poor choices for sound transfer.

Mycroft sounded like he was suggesting it just as an exercise to test out the action - I have used makeshift paper/cardboard shims like that in the past and they do the job just fine since stacking pieces of cardboard or whatnot is a quick and easy way to play with the action to find your desired height. It's not something I'd ever keep in there for the reasons you mentioned, though.

[jpd]

Originally Posted by Mycroft

One of the things that seems to get overlooked the most is fret height. Action can only be set relative to the highest (or tallest) fret. Factory guitars are notorious for erratic fret height, but even some higher-end instruments can need an adjustment after the guitar has settled in because a fret may wind up taller.

You want the best setup possible, have someone who knows what they are doing crown and level your frets.

TW

+1........all other things considered, if the frets are not easy to slide up and down the neck the ease of play is missing!

[Mycroft]

Originally Posted by PastorSteve

If you feel a desire to shim the saddle at least use a proper shim and nod cardboard or a business card. Very poor choices for sound transfer.

Right. Except if you actually read what I actually wrote I was offering a cheap and easy method to experiment with string height at the nut before having a permanent replacement made. I never mentioned the saddle. And I never said anything about this being long term.

[Bunny64]

Originally Posted by Mycroft

Right. Except if you actually read what I actually wrote I was offering a cheap and easy method to experiment with string height at the nut before having a permanent replacement made. I never mentioned the saddle. And I never said anything about this being long term.

I totally got what you meant my good friend. Thanks again.

[Bunny64]

Originally Posted by PastorSteve

If you feel a desire to shim the saddle at least use a proper shim and nod cardboard or a business card. Very poor choices for sound transfer.

Thanks for that but I am pretty sure Mycroft was only suggesting this as a temporary move to ascertain correct nut height.

[Mycroft]

Originally Posted by jpd

+1........all other things considered, if the frets are not easy to slide up and down the neck the ease of play is missing!

Sorry, not what I said, although I agree that a properly crowned fret that makes easy movement is important, particularly if you slide your fretting fingers up and down the fretboard.

What I said was that when adjusting the height of the strings, via adjusting the nut, saddle or relief, if the frets are not level that the lowest that you can go without buzzes is whatever is clear of the tallest fret. So having the frets leveled if needed before having the action itself adjusted can and will result is a lower, more easily played action throughout the length of the fretboard. (presuming uneven fret height in the beginning, of course)

While most common in factory-production guitars, as this is a skill and time intensive operation, it can also happen in some pretty high end instruments as well. And in used instruments too, as due to setting in or environmental factors a fret can push up. Often it only involves leveling a fret or two, and the difference you get in playability can be astonishing.

TW

[Mycroft]

Originally Posted by Bunny64

I totally got what you meant my good friend. Thanks again.

Glad to help. (I've picked up some pretty good tricks here too)

[Br1ck]

I have found that a $150 setup is night and day better than a $50 setup. The difference is a fret level and crown.