Question for the luthiers: removing fretboard inlay

[backdrifter]

Hello all!

I recently purchased a used guitar with a custom and personal (to the last owner) inlay on the fretboard. The inlay is three words, one per fret for three frets. The words are centered between frets and do not extend under the frets themselves. The fretboard is void of any other inlay (no dot markers or anything else), and is of the very, very dark jet black variety of ebony.

Is there a way to remove these inlays? Perhaps to drill the inlay out a bit, and then fill with some kind of filler and die it black to match the fretboard? I once had an ebony tailpiece on a Benedetto guitar that I used to own explode. It fractured into many pieces. Bob Benedetto himself repaired the tailpiece for me, and I could not find any hint of the fact that it had ever failed. The ebony was seamless - obviously filled with something in a manner that there were no flaws or fractures to be seen. Because of this, I'm lead to believe there has to be a way to do what I'm looking for.

If so, any idea what it might cost, and any recommendations on who to go to for such work? I'm located near St. Louis, if that helps.

Thanks in advance!

[Ned Milburn]

It shouldn't be too difficult to remove. It will have to be refilled. Is it ebony or rosewood?

[backdrifter]

Thanks for the response, Ned. The fretboard is very dark and uniform ebony.

[LouieAtienza]

Depending on how the inlay was done, it's very possible to inlay new wood, between the edges of the neck, and terminating under a fret, which would make the joint virtually invisible if grain closely matching can be found. It may be easier to conceal if ebony, since the grain is not obvious...

[Rodger Knox]

You will need to remove the frets near the inlays.

Remove the inlays, a dremel can be used. You could also use a small chisel, what ever you need to do to get the inlays out.

You can then fill the voids left by the inlays with black CA or epoxy, I prefer CA.

Don't try to fill it all in one application, it will take too long to dry and shrink back when it does, so you'll need another application anyway. Do a little at a time, and let it dry for a couple of hours before the next application.

Once the void is filled to a little above the board, you can use a file to contour the filled area to the curve of the fingerboard. That's why you need to remove the frets, they will be in the way. You may need to sand/polish the area with 600-800 grit sandpaper, then install new frets.

If your board is black and doesn't have a lot of visible pores, the repair will not show except on close inspection.

To do better than that, you'll need to take Louie's advice.

[KingCavalier]

Okay, am I the only one who needs to know what the "three words" are.

Pics would be even better

[B. Howard]

Since I can't see how close to the frets the inlay work is I will not make any guess as to whether or not frets need pulled or not. If the inlays are natural shell like abalone or MOP they can be removed by heating them up with a soldering iron with a pointed tip. Heat the inlay up and the glue will let go and you can pull it out with metal dental picks.

[murrmac123]

Originally Posted by LouieAtienza

Depending on how the inlay was done, it's very possible to inlay new wood, between the edges of the neck, and terminating under a fret, which would make the joint virtually invisible if grain closely matching can be found. It may be easier to conceal if ebony, since the grain is not obvious...

Sounds like the only satisfactory way to go about it , and the frets would indeed need to be removed.

The words are presumably in adjacent spaces, so four frets would need to be removed, and one piece of ebony glued in. Obviously the center two fret slots would need to be recut.

Filling with black CA would be a bit of a bodge IMO. Or do you call it a "fudge" over there ?

[Rodger Knox]

Originally Posted by murrmac123

Sounds like the only satisfactory way to go about it , and the frets would indeed need to be removed.

The words are presumably in adjacent spaces, so four frets would need to be removed, and one piece of ebony glued in. Obviously the center two fret slots would need to be recut.

Filling with black CA would be a bit of a bodge IMO. Or do you call it a "fudge" over there ?

I agree with all of the above, I'd have to see the fingerboard before I'd recommend that method for this repair. It is a way to get it done yourself, but it may not be the best way. If there's visible pores, it will look bad.

Inlaying the ebony would be preferred, and is probably easier than filling with black CA. It's a bit fussy to get the CA right, and even then it may show. It would work great on Richlite!

[backdrifter]

Thanks again for all the comments. This may be a little more involved than I was thinking. This is not something I would do myself. It's a high end instrument and I would only proceed with a repair if I knew that it would be impossible to tell there were ever any inlays in the first place.

[John Arnold]

it's very possible to inlay new wood, between the edges of the neck, and terminating under a fret, which would make the joint virtually invisible if grain closely matching can be found.

I have done this on several occasions. If properly done, it will be totally undetectable.

The words are presumably in adjacent spaces, so four frets would need to be removed, and one piece of ebony glued in. Obviously the center two fret slots would need to be recut.

You don't have to do one continuous piece, but three pieces cut consecutively from the same piece of ebony will match the same. I prefer not having to recut the fret slots.....simply because it avoids the added pressure of getting the slots perfectly located.
The cost in my shop would be about $75, but it would not surprise me to find repairmen who would charge triple that.

Filling with black CA would be a bit of a bodge IMO. Or do you call it a "fudge" over there ?

'SNAFU' is the preferred term...especially if you are ex-military.

[murrmac123]

Originally Posted by John Arnold

I prefer not having to recut the fret slots.....simply because it avoids the added pressure of getting the slots perfectly located.

I was thinking that the ends of the existing fret slots would still be there to provide an accurate location for a side guide for the fret saw.

[joeguam]

Originally Posted by KingCavalier

Okay, am I the only one who needs to know what the "three words" are.

Pics would be even better

Pics or the three words...and nobody gets hurt!

[Eric Jones]

Originally Posted by joeguam

Pics of the three words...

I'd guess: "DO NOT, PLAY ABOVE, THIS LINE" Ooops...that's six words.

"Faith, Hope, Charity"

"Curly, Moe, Larry"

[John Arnold]

was thinking that the ends of the existing fret slots would still be there to provide an accurate location for a side guide for the fret saw.

True, but it still introduces the chance for error that is IMHO totally unnecessary.
I can leave a tiny sliver of wood under the fret, and reinstall the same frets in the same orientation after the fill is done.
I like to do things the easy way......