#16
|
|||
|
|||
Taking into consideration the relatively consistent bracing Larrivee uses,
I can certainly hear the difference in his guitars with different tonewoods.
__________________
Nothing bothers me unless I let it. Martin D18 Gibson J45 Gibson J15 Fender Copperburst Telecaster Squier CV 50 Stratocaster Squier CV 50 Telecaster |
#17
|
|||
|
|||
I seem to like cedar/rosewood guitars for fingerstyle for all of the reasons that are commonly stated. I have two of them (Webber OM and Larrivee L-30).
I did not consider the wood combo when I bought them. I just fell in love with the tone. |
#18
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
|
#19
|
|||
|
|||
Generally speaking a light weight top will tend to favor 'responsiveness', while a heavier one will have more 'headroom'. If you're using a softwood for the top picking a piece with lower density will usually result in a lighter top. On average by species, my own measurements have WRC holding down the low end of the density range, followed by Engelmann spruce, European, Red, and Sitka, although there's not much difference in the average of the last two. However, I have WRC tops that match Red spruce ones, near both ends of the range, and some of the densest spruce tops I've tested have been Engelmann. The densest brace wood I've seen yet was some very old Euro.
In general, if you're talking about the usual suspects, hardwoods have about the same Young's modulus along the grain as softwoods, at something like twice the density. Hardwoods vary even more than softwoods as a class; keep in mind that balsa is technically a hardwood. Still, if you're talking about mahogany, walnut, koa, maple and so on for tops, they'll usually need to be heavier than a softwood top, and will produce less power, less treble, and have more 'headroom', all else equal. |
#20
|
|||
|
|||
Here is a demo video of 2 Maton 808s....one is the Sitka over Queensland Maple 808TE model (an Australian wood not really a Maple) and the other is the Cedar over Australian Blackwood SRS808.
Now the demo is from Fly Music in Chinese but if you don't speak Chinese, ignore, or imagine, the same old sales pitch! But the playing examples of each guitar is excellent. See what you think, but I bought the one on the right! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UZs_WuQViOM BluesKing777. |
#21
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
As long as I'm enjoying the guitar I am playing, I'm content. |
#22
|
|||
|
|||
I play fingerstyle with a very light touch & I consistently prefer Sitka. Of course that's me. My wife is mostly a classical player (see was a classical guitar minor in college) & prefers Engelmann by a wide margin on her steel stringed guitars...which is why she has commandeered my '98 912c as "hers". And that's okay, my main guitar is my '95 812ce. I play it 99.999% of the time. And when I play a different guitar I just miss it. I tried to like the 912c because it's "better" then the 812c...at least on paper. But it just doesn't give me what I get from my 812c, and I'm sure it's because the Engelmann makes it a much "wetter" guitar. The overtones are beautiful (and addictive), but after a while I feel like I want more authority...more punch.
I think a lot of it is finding what works best for you & your style. And don't get me started on the other dozen or so guitars we have in the house...I'd sell some of them but my wife won't let me.
__________________
-Steve 1927 Martin 00-21 1986 Fender Strat 1987 Ibanez RG560 1988 Fender Fretless J Bass 1991 Washburn HB-35s 1995 Taylor 812ce 1996 Taylor 510c (custom) 1996 Taylor 422-R (Limited Edition) 1997 Taylor 810-WMB (Limited Edition) 1998 Taylor 912c (Custom) 2019 Fender Tele |
#23
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
__________________
Barry Youtube! Please subscribe! My SoundCloud page Avalon L-320C, Guild D-120, Martin D-16GT, McIlroy A20, Pellerin SJ CW Cordobas - C5, Fusion 12 Orchestra, C12, Stage Traditional Alvarez AP66SB, Seagull Folk Aria {Johann Logy}: |
#24
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
I have an old ('96) 510c that I really like for alternate tunings. It's the one Engelmann top that I really like. i think it helps balance the dryness of the Mahogany nicely. I had it custom built for recording (so no electronics) with a 1-3/4" nut & cutaway. Back then both options were paid upgrades. The guy that was sourcing the parts/woods at Taylor was a friend of a friend (they played in a band together before he moved out to the left coast), so I got PS grade Engelmann on my little 500 as a surprise.
__________________
-Steve 1927 Martin 00-21 1986 Fender Strat 1987 Ibanez RG560 1988 Fender Fretless J Bass 1991 Washburn HB-35s 1995 Taylor 812ce 1996 Taylor 510c (custom) 1996 Taylor 422-R (Limited Edition) 1997 Taylor 810-WMB (Limited Edition) 1998 Taylor 912c (Custom) 2019 Fender Tele |
#25
|
|||
|
|||
I have owned fingerstyld guitars of very different tonal profiles that wer made of adi, euro, swiss, italian, englemann, lutz, and sitka spruce as well as redwood and cedar. In the end it is the builder who makes the biggest difference.
__________________
In the end it is about who you love above yourself and what you have stood for and lived for that make the difference... |
#26
|
|||
|
|||
I think it depends on the rest of the guitar and your playing style. Some are more responsive to gentle playing, but lack headroom. Some add "warmth," which may or may not be a welcome addition depending on the sides and back (and your ears - no doubt).
I can't say I've ever played a top that refused to cooperate with finger style playing. I like the sound of redwood over an African Blackwood body - but that doesn't necessarily mean I'd like redwood tops on all my guitars.
__________________
Keith Martin 000-42 Marquis Taylor Classical Alvarez 12 String Gibson ES345s Fender P-Bass Gibson tenor banjo |
#27
|
|||
|
|||
This conversation is all about averages as Alan stated in a manor of words. If you build two identical guitars from the same tree they will sound different, I know because I did it. So what does that suggest? That the top wood has nothing to do with the tone? Well not really, but kind of. A company like Martin and Taylor do build the same guitar over and over again, maybe not from the same tree but still, close enough. So that's when you start to see the differences on average of the various top woods.
In a small shop the guitar maker can select specific tops for specific purposes. Many of them will purchase tops and grade them and filter them into different categories, this one will make an excellent classical guitar, and this one will be a favorite for a light finger stylist and so on, regardless of the species. Even at the 'boutique' level the choice of top species matters but to much a lesser degree then what most think. But for widget guitars it tends to matter more, it's kind of ironic really. |
#28
|
|||
|
|||
redir wrote:
"But for widget guitars it tends to matter more, it's kind of ironic really. " Again, in the production setting, where they built to the average properties of the top species (if they're careful), the tone of the guitars will reflect the variation in properties from that average, and the 'average' guitar in that run will reflect the 'average' tone of that species. A hand maker, picking the tops that have the properties they want to produce a given sound without regard to the species, will tend to produce a similar sound with tops of different woods that share the same properties. So; if you're looking for a given sound, and you're checking out factory instruments, look at the ones that have the top wood that produces that sound. If you're getting a hand made, find the maker who tends to get closest to that sound, tell them what you want, and let them pick the wood. |
#29
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
__________________
In order of appearance: Aria LW20 Dreadnaught Seagull Maritime HG Dreadnaught Seagull Natural Elements Dreadnaught Taylor 418e Taylor 514ce LTD |
#30
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
__________________
Barry Youtube! Please subscribe! My SoundCloud page Avalon L-320C, Guild D-120, Martin D-16GT, McIlroy A20, Pellerin SJ CW Cordobas - C5, Fusion 12 Orchestra, C12, Stage Traditional Alvarez AP66SB, Seagull Folk Aria {Johann Logy}: |