Epiphone DR 100 truss rod adjustment.

[Fatstrat]

A co-worker gave me an above named guitar with a pretty bad bow in the neck. The guitar has truss rod adjustment allen head inside the body. But when I attempted to adjust the neck there, not much happened. Internet research (which I suppose I should've done first) then suggests that the adjustments should be made from the headstock. Is this true even on the bottom of the line Epiphones?

[Rodger Knox]

Are you sure the truss rod adjustment is inside the body? Is there a truss rod cover on the headstock? Truss rods only adjust from one end, and it can be either end, depending on the guitar. Most Ephiphones have truss rod covers on the headstock and adjust from that end. The allen head inside the body probably holds on the neck.

[Fatstrat]

LOL! Well I must admit that I feel pretty dumb right now. Thanks for your help.

[Fatstrat]

Finally had time to get back to tinkering on the guitar. Turns out that the truss rod cover on the DR-100 is a faux truss rod cover. Just there for looks.
So I began re-tinkering with the nut in the sound hole. And got the neck flattened out, using another DR-100 that I own as a guide, to a significantly flatter/more playable state. But I'm concerned that it took at least a full rotation of the nut. And IMO still could possibly use a bit more. And I'm noticing a slightly higher rise in the lower bout of the guitar behind the bridge than on the other DR-100. Making the bridge to appear cocked at more of an angle.
Does this sound right to you guys? Also is it true that on such extreme adjustments that the guitar should be given "rest periods". If so, how long?
Any advice appreciated.

[Earl49]

Fatstrat, it sounds like the truss rod was maybe never adjusted before, so it is not surprising that it took a whole turn to work properly. As long as you got the desired relief, all is good. Truss rod adjustments take effect immediately, but if the wood has taken some "set" over the years, I could see how another minor adjustment (a couple of "flats" on a hex key) might be needed the next day as the neck settles into its new normal. As long as the adjustment is not all used up - the nut won't turn anymore - set it as desired. But if it won't turn, certainly don't force anything.

How is the humidity condition of the guitar? A wet guitar will have a swelled top, which would add to the bridge height. It might also just have some belly which tilts the bridge toward the sound hole, and effectively raises the bridge and saddle some. Probably not a big issue, just something to be aware of.

[Fatstrat]

Originally Posted by Earl49

Fatstrat, it sounds like the truss rod was maybe never adjusted before, so it is not surprising that it took a whole turn to work properly. As long as you got the desired relief, all is good. Truss rod adjustments take effect immediately, but if the wood has taken some "set" over the years, I could see how another minor adjustment (a couple of "flats" on a hex key) might be needed the next day as the neck settles into its new normal. As long as the adjustment is not all used up - the nut won't turn anymore - set it as desired. But if it won't turn, certainly don't force anything.

How is the humidity condition of the guitar? A wet guitar will have a swelled top, which would add to the bridge height. It might also just have some belly which tilts the bridge toward the sound hole, and effectively raises the bridge and saddle some. Probably not a big issue, just something to be aware of.

Thanks. Humidity should be good. I've owned it a few weeks before I got around to tinkering on it. And it's been stored in a gig bag with my other guitars. Humidity levels in my home have run an OK 50 to 60% this summer. Thanks again for your help.

[Rodger Knox]

If it's the typical Gibson/Fender style single action rod, a full turn of the nut is not that large of an adjustment.

[cooper59]

Originally Posted by Rodger Knox

If it's the typical Gibson/Fender style single action rod, a full turn of the nut is not that large of an adjustment.

just so you know a little at a time is best for truss rod adjustments. i only do a quarter turn at a time and wait a day, then if needs more i do it. broken truss rod is not good

[charles Tauber]

Originally Posted by cooper59

just so you know a little at a time is best for truss rod adjustments. i only do a quarter turn at a time and wait a day, then if needs more i do it. broken truss rod is not good

This is unnecessary, despite being widely repeated as "a best practice".

The assumption is false that a rod is more likely to break if the same total adjustment is made over numerous days, rather than at once.

[Hot Vibrato]

Originally Posted by cooper59

just so you know a little at a time is best for truss rod adjustments. i only do a quarter turn at a time and wait a day, then if needs more i do it. broken truss rod is not good

People say this all the time and it's just not true. I work on guitars all day long. I tighten the rods and loosen the rods all the time when doing fret work. They're made to be adjusted. You won't hurt it unless you force it.

Originally Posted by Fatstrat

Also is it true that on such extreme adjustments that the guitar should be given "rest periods". If so, how long?
Any advice appreciated.

No. Turn the adjustment until it looks the way you want it. If it changes any after a day or two, then re-adjust it. The only rule is don't force it (and of course use the right size wrench so you don't strip it).

Just to be clear, the truss rod is not there to raise and lower your action. That is accomplished by raising or lowering the saddle. The rod adjustment will have an effect on string height, but its only purpose is to control straightness of the neck.

Edit: This thread inspired me to start a new thread - "The truss rod myth": http://www.acousticguitarforum.com/f...89#post5046989