Wipe on Poly finish

[thebolo]

So I've been experimenting with different types of finishes lately. I don't currently have the funds or space for a spray setup so I've been trying other methods. I ran across some wipe on polyester finish in the hardware store the other day and I was intrigued. I was wondering if anyone else has ever used the stuff and if so how does it work?

[charles Tauber]

I've used it a fair bit in furniture finishing. For that it works very well. I haven't tried it for instruments, but it would probably work satisfactorily.

[jeff crisp]

Any polyurethane that washes up with turpentine can be thinned with it to make a wiping varnish. I used to use a flooring product (Cabot's CFP) thinned with turps by 50%. This gives you excellent flow (leveling) but a short wet edge time so you will need to work fairly quickly and methodically and avoid going back over any edge that is not fresh. Look for something with more resin and less oil. It will give a harder finish and cut back easier and buff to a higher shine. I was generally happy with the results but it was very time comsuming (16 coats and cut backs). I read an article once about Steinway's reason for changing from varnish to nitro. They too were happy with their varnish finish, the reason was based on time and money.

Jeff.

[cspencer]

Originally Posted by thebolo

So I've been experimenting with different types of finishes lately. I don't currently have the funds or space for a spray setup so I've been trying other methods. I ran across some wipe on polyester finish in the hardware store the other day and I was intrigued. I was wondering if anyone else has ever used the stuff and if so how does it work?

Did you get a satin finish? If yes, I would like to use it on areas where the satin turned shiny after use.

[thebolo]

I havent tried the poly yet. I've been using TrueOil and French Polish. I use 0000 steel wool to get a satin finish.

[charles Tauber]

Originally Posted by cspencer

Did you get a satin finish? If yes, I would like to use it on areas where the satin turned shiny after use.

Don't apply more finish to alter the gloss of an existing finish. Instead, use appropriate rubbing compounds to lower the gloss to whatever sheen you want. Do a search here or on google and you'll find it's been discussed many times before.

[cspencer]

Originally Posted by charles Tauber

Don't apply more finish to alter the gloss of an existing finish. Instead, use appropriate rubbing compounds to lower the gloss to whatever sheen you want. Do a search here or on google and you'll find it's been discussed many times before.

Thanks Charles, your advice has helped a lot

[jeff crisp]

http://liutaiomottola.com/PrevPubs/W...ingVarnish.htm

[bnjp]

I have finished a few maple necks with the Minwax wipe on poly (silver can) and I really like it. It goes on thin and with five or six coats it makes a nice durable finish. The players I've done these for are still happy with the necks after a couple of years. It gets glossy after about five coats in my experience, but you still need to buff it out. I use fine steel wool between coats (the white synthetic 0000 steel wool. if you use the real stuff use a magnet to clean off all the steel fibers before you recoat).

I also keep it around for small jobs...not sure I'd finish an acoustic or a guitar body with it, but Rob DiStefano at frettech.com says he has and it's worked well. More coats on the body than the neck.

[cspencer]

Dumb question: if you used satin wipe on's for small repairs, meaning not wiping the entire neck, would you see two different types or layers of satin finishes? I am intending to sand only a small area, use satin wipe on, and sand where necessary to blend with exisiting finish.

Edit: have you tried Minwax Polyshades for spot repairs? Will you see different shades of color?

[charles Tauber]

Originally Posted by cspencer

Dumb question: if you used satin wipe on's for small repairs, meaning not wiping the entire neck, would you see two different types or layers of satin finishes? I am intending to sand only a small area, use satin wipe on, and sand where necessary to blend with exisiting finish.

Edit: have you tried Minwax Polyshades for spot repairs? Will you see different shades of color?

The biggest issue is one of "compatibility". Will the new finish adhere to the old one, or just peel off, either immediately or not long thereafter? The only way you'll know for sure is to try it.

I don't expect the solvents in the Polyshades will melt the existing finish so as to adhere to it and blend seamlessly. I expect you'll see it and it won't be "invisible". But, the only way you'll know for sure is to try it. Not something I'd suggest on an expensive instrument.

[jeff crisp]

As charles has said "compatibility" is the biggest issue. Even if you get it right (and with so much that can go wrong), if it starts to delaminate it will be an even bigger mess. One more thing, one companys gloss will have a dfferent level of shine than the next. Same with satin and every other lesser shean product on the market.

Jeff.

[cspencer]

Originally Posted by charles Tauber

The biggest issue is one of "compatibility". Will the new finish adhere to the old one, or just peel off, either immediately or not long thereafter? The only way you'll know for sure is to try it.

I don't expect the solvents in the Polyshades will melt the existing finish so as to adhere to it and blend seamlessly. I expect you'll see it and it won't be "invisible". But, the only way you'll know for sure is to try it. Not something I'd suggest on an expensive instrument.

That's it. I'm not pushing my luck and won't touch it. I managed to sand off the bumps and it's much better now. The color is still Ok and there's a nice satin, smooth feel. I'm gonna leave it

Tell you a Chirstmas story. Many moons ago when I was a child and when my dad was younger (he passed away last year). Anyway, he and his brother were eating and drinking (during Christmas holidays) and they decided the doorway to the kitchen was not in the right place (it was on the right side). So, they pulled out the 5lb hammer and broke down the wall. On the following weekend, they rebuilt the wall, and the week after, completed finishing the door on the left side. But on the next weekend, they decided the left side wasn't quite right either. The 5lb hammer came to work again and down came the wall. The doorway went back to the right side, and they completed the finishing. After that, they decided they cannot decide whether the right side was better or left. Mom and aunties got involved (in suggestions) and of course, other uncles came into the picture. Dad and uncle Henry decided to solve the problem once for all and knocked down the wall. There was no wall to the kitchen after that for the next 40 years

That's a great story.

[MARVINKITE]

First, it is polyurethane. Polyester is a type of fiberglas resin that needs a catalyst to harden (and fiberglas fibers to saturate the resin in) It does not air dry. Secondly, it is good for protecting a bare wood surface where you want to 'feel' the grain texture. It is too thin - even after 12 coats (trust me on this-from good old fahsioned trial and error) to build up a hard protective coat like sprayed on layers of nitrocellulose laquer or other hard sprayed on clear coatings. There are reasons why guitar finishing is such an intensive ordeal...I've been there.