#1
|
|||
|
|||
000X1 refinish project
Hey folks,
I've been on the lookout for a good "backyard guitar," and came across a good used Martin 000X1 at a local store today. Got it for a song. Problem is, the fella that had it before me tried to do a custom lacquer finish at home. Truth told, it doesn't look terrible except for a few over drips on the sides. It sounds and plays great, especially for its purpose, but wondering if a refinish project would be a good idea. This would be my first try for something like this. What are the risks of removing a finish like this, what's the safest way to do it, and what's the best finish method for a beginner (I've heard teak oil, but some responses I've seen on here are steering me clear)? Thanks in advance |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
Finishing a guitar is quite difficult, do you really think you can do better job than the previous owner? If you do, the use a chemical stripper to remove the majority of the old finish, minimize sanding to avoid thinning the top.
Decide on a finish, find a proven sequence of application for that finish, and go for it. You will not learn without trying, and with guitar finishes, failures are pretty common, so be prepared to have to redo some things. Preparing the surface for finish is the most important step in the process, so now you have the secret.
__________________
Rodger Knox, PE 1917 Martin 0-28 1956 Gibson J-50 et al |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
What part of the guitar was refinished? IIRC the only solid piece of wood on a 000X1 is the top? The back and sides are a veneer much like what you would find on a piece of cheap furniture (even thought he back and sides are more like formica) so I wouldn't recommend sanding those areas. As for the neck, IIRC the multilaminate Stratabond comes pre-stained.
__________________
(2006) Larrivee OM-03R, (2009) Martin D-16GT, (1998) Fender Am Std Ash Stratocaster, (2013) McKnight McUke, (1989) Kramer Striker ST600, a couple of DIY builds (2013, 2023) |
#4
|
|||
|
|||
Thanks for the advice!
It looks like just the top was refinished (the sides and back have a similar sheen, but are much more consistent and smooth). The more I look at the guitar, the only part that bothers me about the refinish are the drips running from the top to the sides. Maybe I could just lift those with some light steel wool or something? |
#5
|
|||
|
|||
Get some alcohol and acetone - just wash off the drips. The sides are not wood, and will be unaffected by the solvents. If you scrub with steel wool, the scratches will be notceable. Use rags and work only on the sides/back.
__________________
Cheers, Frank Ford |
#6
|
|||
|
|||
OP here,
Quick update for anyone interested. Turned out there was also a tinted poly applied to the sides and back, and lacquer on the top. Started to remove the drips with some acetone as mentioned above, but it went straight to the unfinished hpl. Ultimately, I decided to go all in, removed the pick guard, removed the poly on the back and sides, and stripped off the lacquer on top as well. Lightly sanded the top, and applied a light coat of danish oil. Left the sides and back as original, and stuck on a new tortoise pick guard. Long story short, the guitar looks brand new now. The oil finish may have made it a little less responsive than when it was purchased, but its light years better than it was with that thick, ugly lacquer. Still don't have much money in the whole project, but now have a unique and handsome 000x1! |
#7
|
|||
|
|||
pics or it didnt happen
__________________
2018 Taylor 314ce V-class |