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#2
02-18-2024, 10:53 AM
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I glue my side purflings on before ripping the binding strips. This is the one place in my entire construction that I use type II Titebond, exactly because it can withstand the heat of the bending w/o delaminating.
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#3
02-18-2024, 12:26 PM
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Thanks, Bruce. Are you saying that you make one rabbit for both binding and purfling instead of the step? I can do that. I usually don't use purfling. I like the simple look of thicker bindings. I round over the edges of the bindings.
Regards, TW
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#4
02-19-2024, 12:19 AM
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TW, I think you need to clarify whether you are talking about the top purfling that goes inside the binding, or the side purfling that goes under the binding.
Top purfling that is multiple thin veneer strips does not require heat bending. It gets laminated together on the guitar. Marquetry purfling may require heat bending.
__________________
"Still a man hears what he wants to hear, and disregards the rest." --Paul Simon
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#5
02-19-2024, 12:22 AM
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TW, I think you need to clarify whether you are talking about the top purfling that goes inside the binding, or the side purfling that goes below the binding.
Top purfling that is multiple thin veneer strips does not require heat bending. It gets laminated together on the guitar. Marquetry purfling may require heat bending.
__________________
"Still a man hears what he wants to hear, and disregards the rest." --Paul Simon
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#6
02-20-2024, 01:38 AM
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Quote:
There was a time when gluing bindings was a real effort in the process for me. Its a quick operation today. I figure about 4 hrs total. But figure my designs have much more radical curves to fit than a 000. There are a few things that really speed the process, but to answer your specific question first, I make binding with the side purfling laminated to the binding in a 2 inch wide cross section. I thickness veneer or use it as sliced depending on the look. generally I use maple veneer I thickness to between 10-12 thou. My preferred adhesive is Urethane glue, it takes 400 degrees to break it down. I have 2 inch thick gluing beams with a slight radius end to end. I sandwich the laminate between the beams and clamp the hell out if them. Then I plane one edge and cut strips using a ground .020 band saw blade to save material. I put the blade on the saw in reverse and grind all but the slightest set off the teeth. Ground blades cut like a knife and leave very smooth surfaces. I cut them to 85-90 thou thick, then I thickness them to .075 before bending. The key to speeding up the process is fitting the bindings to match the channels accurately. I made up precise bearing caps graduated in .005 increments 40 years ago. I match the channel to the binding so there is the least amount of side leveling after installation. When gluing bindings I use very thick XXXX hide glue brushed onto the bindings not the channel. I tape the bindings and purflings, purflings for top or back, in place then reheat the thick hide glue using and iron to achieve a perfectly tight fit and to force out moisture. The heat shrinks the tape and helps ensure the glue is squeezed out. I know what you are thinking, my bindings are not that thick. Well, they are bent into a 2 inch radius. Remember, urethane glue expands so you need to clamp well. mcgillguitars.com goacousticaudio.com Last edited by conecaster; 02-28-2024 at 01:36 PM.
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#7
02-21-2024, 10:52 AM
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Conecaster, thank you. When I posted the request I didn't think about the purfling on the bottom of binding. I was thinking of the binding strip and purfling as one unit. I like to route one channel without the step. I usually only use a thicker binding strip and don't use purfling. I can then ease the edge for a softer feel. I love the simple but elegant look. I'm replacing the top of the guitar for a friend her dad made for her, he used red, and yellow veneers for the purfling.
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#8
02-21-2024, 10:28 PM
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Quote:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/zNzPT5eoknHcMRhRA
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