A question about closing the box

[Henning]

Hello, I try to align the top to the sides and back. But that seems like closing Pandora's box. The top is smaller then the back and sides. I found out, if I i attach the binding first, it could fit as a way of steering the top in place. But then, when the top is smaller then the seating point, I added a 2 mm three layer veneer to the edge of the top. Still it is Pandora's box, (at least to me!). Do you please have any suggestions?
There will be hard tensions to press the edge of the sides to the edge of the top at some points. Hardly possible seems even to do(?!)
Regards

[LHawes]

One thing you might try is to add just enough width to the linings to get the top to reach those new linings without distorting the sides, then cut a wider purfling channel to cover the newly created space between the top and sides.

[runamuck]

From what I've understood you to say, you probably need to make a new top larger than the sides.

Or - and I don't know if this is possible in your case - can you make an exterior mold that will hold the sides in enough so you have some overhang of the top all the way around?

[Bowie]

Originally Posted by Henning

There will be hard tensions to press the edge of the sides to the edge of the top at some points.

If you are putting tension into the build by forcing the sides in, it will affect the sound, and likely the future integrity of the top. I would chalk it up as a mistake and create a new top.

[Henning]

Thanks for your replies. It is mainly at the waist where it needs to be pressed somewhat. Eventally, i'll add some splints.
Regards

[Fathand]

Originally Posted by Henning

Thanks for your replies. It is mainly at the waist where it needs to be pressed somewhat. Eventally, i'll add some splints.
Regards

Is the back on already? Is the waist at the back narrower than the waist at the top? I have had side springback cause that and glue the top on with the box in the mold to correct.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/194462...7720296629122/

If your sides are straight and square with the waist the same width top and back then you either build a new top or use binding /purfling to fill.

[Henning]

Thank you, I think I have solved the matter now. Just considering; should I glue the bridge (to the top) before I close the box, hm. Because I just have one very heavy clamp that would stick into the bridge. I will have to make the bridge first. (I've never done a routed bridge slot before, neither have I made a complete bridge before either.)
So perhaps it is better to attach the bridge before closing...

[JonWint]

Originally Posted by Henning

should I glue the bridge (to the top) before I close the box, hm.

No, it's the last thing that gets glued. You can't accurately locate it until the neck and fretboard is glued to the completed body.

[phavriluk]

The bridge gets installed after a whole bunch of careful measuring gets done to make sure the saddle is at the correct distance from the nut and that the strings evenly follow the sides of the fingerboard. It takes a heap of measuring.

[Fathand]

I only use one deep C clamp on top of a bridge clamp that bolts through the pinholes.

You can make or buy one.

https://www.amazon.ca/Guitar-Bridge-...ffac5a4c068b5b

I rout my bridge slot on a milling machine ( because I have one) after cutting out the bridge blank, while everything is square and easy to hold on to. You can also make a cut through bridge slot on a table saw apparently. Martin style bridges are relatively cheap on Amaxon etc.

[Henning]

Thank you for leading me in the right direction. I try to cover an old bridge seat with the new bridge. It ought to fit over that area (at least). I ordered a bridge in the early fall (Ebay). It never arrived and it was a standard Martin type. The one I want looks like something in between a classic and a steel string bridge.
Regards