#16
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I think it might be better to learn setup skills on something other than a new D-18. If you add up the cost of tools (files, measuring instruments, etc) you will need...it might be cheaper to hire somebody with experience to do the job right the first time.
Everybody needs a proper truss rod wrench and to be able to measure/adjust relief due to seasonal/string gauge changes, but I suggest you keep it there for now. |
#17
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i just ordered a truss rod, I'll tread carefully to begin. Thanks for the advice.
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#18
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Quote:
Much better to sand the nut slots using the appropriate nut files. |
#19
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I agree that the place to learn guitar setup is not on a new D18.
That said, if you are going to try it, go about it methodically. There are a variety of reasons that a guitar can buzz. It isn't automatically the solution to adjust the truss rod. Here is one approach, Basic Guitar Setup 101: http://charlestauber.com/luthier/Res...May%202015.pdf |
#20
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Why would they be higher off the fretboard?
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#21
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D18 SETUP. Doing my own?
As you have a ( I assume) new Martin D18 with respect this is not the first class instrument to learn how to set up a guitar . Your new Martin should have been set up including the nut slot height with a Pleck Machine , this should give by design the first class set up , it did with mine . It has set the guitar up with the tension and gauge of string fitted in the factory ( normally Lifespan SP ) I would without hesitation take it with your receipt to an approved Martin dealer for evaluation and advise ( if you have changed the strings ) to a higher or lower gauge this will affect the set up and playability of the guitar Good Luck
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Martin OODB JT Gibson J45 Yamaha LLTA Yamaha SLG200S Yamaha NTX1200R Taylor GSMiniE Rosewood Joe Brown Uke AER Compact 60 Marshall AS50D Now 100% Acoustic and loving it ! No more GAS Last edited by 51 Relic; 03-09-2018 at 10:18 AM. |
#22
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tools
I have been doing my own setups for years.
The only tool I had to buy ( that I didn't already have) is a fret file. I had a machinist friend grind a straight edge out of cold rolled steel 1.5 x 1/4 x 18 inches. He also made a special gauge to set the string depth on a new nut using a piece of hacksaw blade ground to a sharp point. The saw blade is held in a aluminum block that rides on the newly dressed frets and is set to cut 0.050 in above the fret line. A little pencil graphite marks the final depth. I finish the slots with broaches originally designed for gas orifices.
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"My opinion is worth every penny you paid for it." "If you try to play like someone else, Who will play like you". Quote from Johnny Gimble The only musician I have to impress today is the musician I was yesterday. No tubes, No capos, No Problems. |
#23
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Truss rod tool arrived. I guess there is no risk of screwing something up if I make a quarter turn to the LEFT and see if the buzz goes away?
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#24
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That's correct. That way, you don't mess with the nut slots. No newbie is going to file their nut slots properly, so its saving them trouble but allowing them to still solve their issue
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The past: Yamaha AC3R (2016) Rose, Eastman AC822ce-FF (2018) The present:Taylor 614-ce (2018) Clara, Washburn Dread (2012) The future:Furch Rainbow GC-CR (2020)Renata? |
#25
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Quote:
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#26
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Well, it took 2 truss rod adjustments over 2 days, quarter turns (to the left) each day to get rid of the fret buzz.
Next is to lower the action a little by sanding a replacement saddle. I will keep the original one just in case. Wish me luck! |
#27
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Quote:
1. Adjusting the relief to about 0.005"-0.007" or thereabouts. 2. Checking the nut slots as shown on frets.com. 3. The lowering the saddle if the action is higher than necessary for your style, or raising the saddle if the action is too low. Check out frets.com, bryankimsey.com, and Charles Tauber's link in post #19. That will help you. |
#28
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well that wasn't what I was hoping to hear, but always better to hear the truth. I might just not mess with the action right now then. i don't notice a whole lot of difference since the adjustment and honestly the action height is manageable for me. by the sounds of it i would be better not messing around with it anymore, at least based or your response. Anyone think any different?
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#29
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I use this kit to do my setups. I have a few small files to use on the nut and sandpaper for the saddle, but have been completely happy just doing saddle and truss rod adjustments. The kit makes string changes easier too, and has a place for extra strings to take along with you.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Your mileage my vary. |