D18 SETUP. Doing my own?

[mpaul73]

I want to learn to do my own setup on my new D18. I don't know a lot but am thinking with all the youtube videos out there and this forum I could give it a shot. Essentially all I want to do it get rid of some fret buzz and lower my action a little. I don't want to screw things up and cause bigger problems of course, so am being cautious to just just straight in. Thoughts?

[HodgdonExtreme]

If you're even just a little bit handy, can follow instructions, and are willing to buy a few inexpensive tools...

No problem

[mpaul73]

OK. What tools will I need?

[wooglins]

If it is a new D18 and has fret buzz you most likely just need a truss rod adjustment. They plek them and they should be buzz free from the factory. In shipping sometimes, or with a string change to a different tension the truss rod will need to be slightly tweeked. Crazy easy.

Your second item of lowering the action is also very easy to do. I would recommend buying a second saddle from guitarsaddles.com (Bob C.) and I would lower that one. In this way you will be able to easily go up or down in action just by swapping the saddle.

Tools for these two items are simply a truss rod tool, and sandpaper for the saddle. You can get a truss rod tool from LMI. Martins use a very standard type of tool.

[HodgdonExtreme]

You'll need feeler gauges to "properly" adjust the truss rod and set the neck relief. Can be done without the gauges, but they're cheap and handy..and allow you to quantify your adjustments.

You'll need sandpaper to sand down your saddle. Better if you buy/make a little fixture that will keep it nice and square, but kinda unnecessary.

You'll want an extra saddle or two - either in case you sand too much, or just for different seasons of the year. After you've played with setups a few times and have graduated from Setup 101, you might want to buy saddle blanks and progress into Setup 201 - and make your own. It's not hard.

Setup 201 would also include a set of nut-slot files to allow you to perfect the depth of your nut slots.

Oh, a nice metal straightedge is handy to have too.

[lowrider]

If you have any experience using tools and taking fine measurements, you can do your own set-up. I second the idea of getting a second saddle to work on so that you can always go back to the original.

And I want to add that when you adjust the truss rod; just a quarter turn and let it rest for overnight before another quarter turn.

[Jaden]

Unless you are always going to be using a capo, nut slot filing is essential to get first position fretting ‘softer’ and as easy as possible. Finding a good luthier to do this work is as important as finding the right guitar, and on a new D-18, you don’t want to mess it up. Truss rod and saddle adjustments are easy to do for yourself. Most of the time when people talk about a new set up, nut slot work is the most essential part of it.

[mpaul73]

Yes, I don't want to screw this up. I'll do a small truss rod adjustment, and buy a second saddle to lower the action, nothing beyond this for the moment.

[JayBee1404]

You may already know this, but you need a 5mm ball-end truss-rod wrench with a 4-1/2" reach for your D-18....like item #6114 at the bottom of this list...

http://www.stewmac.com/Luthier_Tools..._Wrenches.html

[ChalkLitIScream]

Originally Posted by mpaul73

Yes, I don't want to screw this up. I'll do a small truss rod adjustment, and buy a second saddle to lower the action, nothing beyond this for the moment.

better get 2 or 3 extra saddles. You may end up with an irreversible mistake(such as sanding too much) and unless you are ok with shims, you'd need extras.

At this time, I'd recommend some cheap blanks. You'd be paying a premium for Colosi's blanks and it's a waste if it's just for testing.

Sandpaper is needed at the very least, which can also be used to lower the nut action by sanding the bottom of the nut

[Rodkins]

I always buy an extra saddle and keep the original saddle and bridge pins (when I replace the bridge pins) in the guitar case so I can always go back to the original settings. I also mark the truss rod original position. I have lowered the action on a guitar before thinking that was the answer only to switch it back later. Also, I like to buy a sheet of sandpaper with a sticky side and stick it to a piece of wood so that I can squarely sand the saddle. Keep in mind I am a setup rookie and have learned most of my tricks the hard way.

[pbla4024]

String gauge action ruler:
http://www.stewmac.com/Luthier_Tools...ion_Gauge.html

It's like eight bucks on the Amazon.

[catfish]

Originally Posted by wooglins

If it is a new D18 and has fret buzz you most likely just need a truss rod adjustment. They plek them and they should be buzz free from the factory. In shipping sometimes, or with a string change to a different tension the truss rod will need to be slightly tweeked. Crazy easy.

I also suggest to start with adjustement of the truss rod.
For example, http://www.dummies.com/art-center/mu...d-on-a-guitar/
And, most likely, the fret buzz will disappear -- you will not need any spare bridge saddle and sandpaper. I doubt you need to file the nut slots as these new Martin guitars are all pleked (even HPL Martin).

[tippy5]

Originally Posted by Jaden

Unless you are always going to be using a capo, nut slot filing is essential to get first position fretting ‘softer’ and as easy as possible. Finding a good luthier to do this work is as important as finding the right guitar, and on a new D-18, you don’t want to mess it up. Most of the time when people talk about a new set up, nut slot work is the most essential part of it.

Agreed here. Many luthiers/setup techs don't optimize the nut slot depths and slot walls. You need the correct files. Many just use 2 or 3 old files for all 6 nut slots and just feather the slot with a skinny dull file into a pinching V slot.

Some techs don't even file the nut and just adjust the string feel (Action - String Height) by truss and saddle only.

I like to verify setup on arrival. I hold the guitar sideways and see a side view of all 6 strings closeup. (Also a truss rod look on a steep vertical angle is nice).

I like to look at the string lay after a setup to see a nice radius of all 6 strings. I use a side view look of all 6 strings between the fretboard and the bottom of the strings at the first fret. The low E (And A) string is higher off the fretboard. You have to slightly move the guitar to see this lay. I also do this down at the body to neck joint and a few inches in front of the saddle. It is nice to get to know this look. When you pick up the guitar that is the time to verify the setup. Most just grab and play to see. But a closeup look and measuring tools can help.

I believe the right hand is the most important signature of a guitarist.
Meaning ... Optimum string radius over the fretboard (for precise and easy string strike) exists from the nut slots over the sound board to a saddle. It is more than just how high the string set height off the fretboard. Unless you are just folk strumming.

Guitars have 6 strings on an asymmetrical curve to the fretboard. Yet techs know the low E needs more height than the high E. Due to string bounce, and string width, of the low E string compared to the high E. For me it still is a curve to learn visually as well as feeler gauges for measurement.

Single string strikes are top and bottom sides of any given string. You need to get your fingers in there efficiently. This is 12 ways to access/pluck/hit accurately any single string. Extrapolate this finger to string entrance and execution into all manner of right hand technique and you can see how important a good setup is. Don't just play, pay and leave. Check it out.

[Jaden]

Originally Posted by tippy5

Agreed here. Many luthiers/setup techs don't optimize the nut slot depths and slot walls. You need the correct files. Many just use 2 or 3 old files for all 6 nut slots and just feather the slot with a skinny dull file into a pinching V slot.

Some techs don't even file the nut and just adjust the string feel (Action - String Height) by truss and saddle only.

I like to verify setup on arrival. I hold the guitar sideways and see a side view of all 6 strings closeup. (Also a truss rod look on a steep vertical angle is nice).

I like to look at the string lay after a setup to see a nice radius of all 6 strings. I use a side view look of all 6 strings between the fretboard and the bottom of the strings at the first fret. The low E (And A) string is higher off the fretboard. You have to slightly move the guitar to see this lay. I also do this down at the body to neck joint and a few inches in front of the saddle. It is nice to get to know this look. When you pick up the guitar that is the time to verify the setup. Most just grab and play to see. But a closeup look and measuring tools can help.

I believe the right hand is the most important signature of a guitarist.
Meaning ... Optimum string radius over the fretboard (for precise and easy string strike) exists from the nut slots over the sound board to a saddle. It is more than just how high the string set height off the fretboard. Unless you are just folk strumming.

Guitars have 6 strings on an asymmetrical curve to the fretboard. Yet techs know the low E needs more height than the high E. Due to string bounce, and string width, of the low E string compared to the high E. For me it still is a curve to learn visually as well as feeler gauges for measurement.

Single string strikes are top and bottom sides of any given string. You need to get your fingers in there efficiently. This is 12 ways to access/pluck/hit accurately any single string. Extrapolate this finger to string entrance and execution into all manner of right hand technique and you can see how important a good setup is. Don't just play, pay and leave. Check it out.

Excellent elucidation. That view of string height from nut to first fret as well as discussion of right hand feel is right on. An elegant execution of the nut gives the string to string curve an aesthetic of beauty when done right. I know my veteran guitar tech relies on close visual look and years of experience.