K&K Pure Mini Jack Question

[mwalk]

So these take an 1/8" cable right? How does that work exactly? Specifically, is it literally the same as using a 1/4", just smaller? Thinking about getting one in my new '53 D-18, but I'm wondering how secure an 1/8" cable would be...seems like it could come out easily.

[sabatini]

The K&K Pure Mini takes a normal 1/4 inch jack, though they can be had with a special vintage jack of 1/8 inch if you don't want to enlarge your endpin hole on a vintage guitar.

[ljguitar]

Originally Posted by mwalk

So these take an 1/8" cable right? How does that work exactly? Specifically, is it literally the same as using a 1/4", just smaller? Thinking about getting one in my new '53 D-18, but I'm wondering how secure an 1/8" cable would be...seems like it could come out easily.

Hi mw

If you go the ⅛" jack route (special order) it has a lot of issues. One is those ⅛" jacks are pretty fragile, and you can snap them off inside the receiver which means you have to dismantle the jack to get one out. Another issue is the quality of the cables you get in ⅛". You can certainly get higher quality now than in the 80s.

A third issue is durability. Our first Barcus Berry cables were all ⅛" and I've tossed many a cable which pops, intermittently disconnects, etc. Frankly, I was so happy when the industry moved to ¼" cables. I still loop mine once around my strap so if the cable is stepped on it tugs at my strap a bit and doesn't yank the cable out or break it off.

I've seen ⅛" cables snapped off by the performer stepping on the cable, the sideman stepping on the cable, someone kicking the cable at the preamp/direct box etc. I've had them crap out for no apparent reason, just because they were fragile.

Years ago (in the 1970s-80s) we mostly started out with ⅛" jacks. The issue with them was trying to get high quality cables with ⅛" ends which were durable enough to handle regular play.

Unless you have a very rare guitar (as in collectors instrument in mint condition), it doesn't devalue them to put a ¼" jack in them.

Just had to chime in since I've been playing through amplified systems since the 1980s.

[Athens]

Another vote for the 1/4" approach. I have that on one of mine.

It's a very minor mod but best to have a good tech or luthier do it for you. It needs to be reamed, not drilled, to do it correctly.

There are lots of DI's out there that work well with the mini too.

[mz-s]

I don't know if a '53 Martin is considered highly sought after in original condition vs. modified, but my opinion of it is if it's lived 60+ years without an endpin jack, including the past 20+ years when acoustic pickups became common, I'd leave it original with a Vintage Jack. I would probably use a Vintage Jack on a factory fresh D-18 as well, so take my advice with that in mind.

You can pretty easily build a well-made right angle 1/8" to 1/4" pigtail with a few Switchcraft connectors/jacks, and a few feet of quality cable. With a right angle 1/8" jack, there's very little sticking out so the chances of it snapping off are low.

[Long Jon]

Personally, I like to leave the end pin as an end pin, ie. strictly for attaching a nice secure strap to.
Then you put your jack a couple of inches below that, or even more practical, right around to about 4 O'clock , or the "Telecaster position."

[mwalk]

Thanks for all the replies. I'm probably leaning toward going the 1/4" route, but not by much. The guitar isn't mint, but it's in very good, crack-free condition (so far) and all original. If it already had some mods at some point, I wouldn't think twice about drilling. I also would likely only use this guitar at relaxed solo or duo gigs, probably sitting down. I have other guitars for the full band gigs that may involve more stage activity.

[Mr. Jelly]

The one problem with the 1/4 inch jack is enlarging the end peg hole. When I tried it once I took a little splinter of wood and finish from around the peg hole. Not good. Plus I made the hole a touch to large. I was able to make it work where no one could see any issues. And it never was a problem.
I also used a right angle 1/4 inch cable end to put less pressure on the jack.
As for stepping on cords always run the guitar cable up over the guitar strap.

[Long Jon]

Originally Posted by Athens

Another vote for the 1/4" approach. I have that on one of mine.

It's a very minor mod but best to have a good tech or luthier do it for you. It needs to be reamed, not drilled, to do it correctly.

There are lots of DI's out there that work well with the mini too.

Originally Posted by Mr. Jelly

The one problem with the 1/4 inch jack is enlarging the end peg hole. When I tried it once I took a little splinter of wood and finish from around the peg hole. Not good. Plus I made the hole a touch to large. I was able to make it work where no one could see any issues. And it never was a problem.
I also used a right angle 1/4 inch cable end to put less pressure on the jack.
As for stepping on cords always run the guitar cable up over the guitar strap.

...................

[Mking]

I have a 1999 Martin HD-28V and bought it used in 2001. I have had the vintage jack in it from the beginning (K&K mini pick ups) and I've never had an issue. Take the 1/8 plug they include and cut off the 1/4 jack from the end of a good quality guitar cord and add the 1/8 to it. Keep the '53 in tact on that back strap button hole. IMO.

[jonfields45]

If you go with the Vintage Jack, which I did on one guitar with no problems, check out HOSA molded cables. They are cheap, low noise, and not strong enough to damage your guitar should you step on them and give them a yank. Also the molding is not strong enough to break off the jack tip in your guitar. Buy a bunch and toss them out as they die (that said I've yet to kill one).

[Mking]

Also, when I bought the vintage jack they included a small cord that has the 1/8 male plug on one end and a 1/4 female on the other. Actually You can use that instead of cutting the male end of a regulat 1/4 guitar cord. I keep it in my guitar case.