Martin HD 28 Cracked Bridge

[SpruceGoose_88]

I have been playing my HD-28 for just under 2 years. For the first 16 months (through 2 winters) I was very careful to put it back in the case with the humidifier after every time I played it. I was under the impression that the first year was the most likely time for humidity to be a problem. This past summer I started leaving it out because I thought the humidity was high enough, it had been over a year, and I was really tired of kicking the case (I seriously have a scar on my foot from catching the latch). Fall came around, I was playing it everyday so I left it out and made sure to put the humidifier in the guitar when I wasn't playing. I figured if the sponge in the humidifier started to dry out in under a week, I would put it back in the case (apparently a bad assumption). That started happening in November and I put it periodically back in the case to re-hydrate through the beginning of December.

Mid December my guitar started buzzing and I noticed a hair-line crack in the bridge.

https://imgur.com/LBZofrA

I took it to an authorized martin repair place and they said it was dehydrated so they wouldn't ask Martin to pay for it. I called Martin and they said I had to take it to an authorized dealer before they would do anything.

1. Now, I know humidity is important for guitars, but is this really normal?
I have had a number of other wooden musical instruments including a viola and another solid wood Alvarez guitar and I have never experienced a crack. I feel like I have babied this instrument way more than my others and I cant help but feel like if this crack happened in a few months of drying, it was bound to happen eventually?

2. They re-humidified it for 3 weeks and then tried to repair the crack with super glue and ebony dust twice and said that each time they brought the strings back up to tension, it would pop and split open again. They said they would not try to fix it again and that I could either continue to play it as is (which they said was fine, it sounded fine?) or pay minimum $250 to replace a bridge. Any suggestions on what to do? They also warned me that in removing the bridge, there might be damage done to the lacquer when prying it off.. should I send it back to the factory to be repaired?

3. In regards to guitar design: Is there a reason why the bridge pins are not staggered? Day job is an engineer and that is something that stood out to me when I first noticed the crack propagating through all of the pin holes. If designed something like that and it continually cracked, I would get heat for it. Is there sonically a reason for it, or has it just become traditional and they don't want to mess with it?

4. It seems to me that it would be more difficult to make any glue stick to a hydrated substrate. Is it possible the re-humidification is what is causing the glue joint to pop?

Sorry for the long list questions, but I really appreciate any help.

[Yakstone]

Send it back to the factory.

[charles Tauber]

Originally Posted by SpruceGoose_88

I was under the impression that the first year was the most likely time for humidity to be a problem.

That isn't true. Wood is like a sponge. There isn't anything "special" that happens during the first year and stops thereafter. Very old wood tends to be less absorbant/desorbant.

I figured if the sponge in the humidifier started to dry out in under a week, I would put it back in the case (apparently a bad assumption). That started happening in November and I put it periodically back in the case to re-hydrate through the beginning of December.

That probably isn't the most effective method of keeping your guitar within a desirable range. A hygrometer should be used so you know what the actual humidity is.

Mid December my guitar started buzzing and I noticed a hair-line crack in the bridge.

Cracks in a bridge don't usually cause buzzing. Did the reglue of the bridge stop the buzzing, proving cause and effect?

I cant help but feel like if this crack happened in a few months of drying, it was bound to happen eventually?

Not necessarily. Humidity control is required throughout the life of the instrument.

2.

each time they brought the strings back up to tension, it would pop and split open again.

That seems odd. The glue is, essentially, to fill the crack, less about structure. If the split re-opens, there is movement of the two halves, which is unusual if it was caused by dryness.

They said they would not try to fix it again and that I could either continue to play it as is (which they said was fine, it sounded fine?)

Which brings me back to the question of whether or not the split was causing the buzzing sound you heard.

or pay minimum $250 to replace a bridge. Any suggestions on what to do?

Is the buzzing fixed? Was it a result of a dry guitar that lowered the action?

If so, the split might be cosmetic, in which case it can be filled with coloured epoxy and then levelled, looking near new.

They also warned me that in removing the bridge, there might be damage done to the lacquer when prying it off..

I question their skill, then. I've removed many bridges with no damage to the surrounding finish, as have many other repair persons.

should I send it back to the factory to be repaired?

You'll pay shipping, plus whatever they charge for the instrument. You'll also likely be without the instrument for some months.

I'd suggest taking it to a different authorized repair centre for a second opinion.

Is there a reason why the bridge pins are not staggered? Day job is an engineer and that is something that stood out to me when I first noticed the crack propagating through all of the pin holes. Is there sonically a reason for it, or has it just become traditional and they don't want to mess with

It's tradition, it's easy.

Some guitars are made with pin holes not on the same line for this very reason.

Another factor not discussed is tapered pins in holes. Martin doesn't taper most of their pin holes, but uses tapered pins. Even with tapered holes, wedging tapered pins into the holes can cause a bridge to split. Do you use more than light thumb pressure to seat the pins in the holes?

It seems to me that it would be more difficult to make any glue stick to a hydrated substrate. Is it possible the re-humidification is what is causing the glue joint to pop?

Unlikely. The humidity level/moisture content is not that high.

[redir]

The filling technique isn't really a repair, it's more a cosmetic cover up. Which is fine because like they said it might be perfectly fine as is and last many more years. But bringing it back up to tension and then the cracks 'reopen' is indeed odd. If they are filled then... they are filled and there is nothing to reopen. IT sounds like they tried to clamp it shut too but then it would be odd that they filled it with dust.

Do you see the cracks anymore or are they filled in and flush?

If the guitar plays well now then imho just leave it or get it properly filled so you don't have to constantly look at it.

[SpruceGoose_88]

Originally Posted by redir

The filling technique isn't really a repair, it's more a cosmetic cover up. Which is fine because like they said it might be perfectly fine as is and last many more years. But bringing it back up to tension and then the cracks 'reopen' is indeed odd. If they are filled then... they are filled and there is nothing to reopen. IT sounds like they tried to clamp it shut too but then it would be odd that they filled it with dust.

Do you see the cracks anymore or are they filled in and flush?

If the guitar plays well now then imho just leave it or get it properly filled so you don't have to constantly look at it.

I haven't seen it or played it. They had just called and asked me what I wanted to do. He said that there was still a visible crack, but it was much smaller. He had refilled it 2 times and each time it opened up.

[SpruceGoose_88]

Originally Posted by charles Tauber

Cracks in a bridge don't usually cause buzzing. Did the reglue of the bridge stop the buzzing, proving cause and effect?

Is the buzzing fixed? Was it a result of a dry guitar that lowered the action?


Another factor not discussed is tapered pins in holes. Martin doesn't taper most of their pin holes, but uses tapered pins. Even with tapered holes, wedging tapered pins into the holes can cause a bridge to split. Do you use more than light thumb pressure to seat the pins in the holes?

Thanks for answering all of my questions, very helpful. To answer some of yours..
I am assuming the buzzing was fixed based on his word alone.

First off the buzzing was only happening when I was capoing or baring higher on the fret board , at first I thought it was just one of the frets popping up. I guess it still could have been if it was dry. However, I will say that there was a night and day change. It was fine the night before (I even did a recording, no buzz) and the next evening it was buzzing. When I noticed the crack, I assumed that because it happened so abruptly it was the crack?

It had been a while since I had changed the strings, beginning of August. I was also aware of the sensitivity of the pin holes and did not press them in very hard.

My biggest concern is that the bridge is somehow not stable at the base glue joint, which is why the crack may be moving/popping when it is brought up to tension. I just don't want don't want to to spring for a new bridge if the cause of the crack in the first place was aided by a faulty glue joint which should be covered by Martin?

Originally Posted by SpruceGoose_88

2. They re-humidified it for 3 weeks and then tried to repair the crack with super glue and ebony dust twice and said that each time they brought the strings back up to tension, it would pop and split open again. They said they would not try to fix it again and that I could either continue to play it as is (which they said was fine, it sounded fine?) or pay minimum $250 to replace a bridge. Any suggestions on what to do? They also warned me that in removing the bridge, there might be damage done to the lacquer when prying it off.. should I send it back to the factory to be repaired?

Charles answered everything pretty clearly, as is his custom, so I'll try not plow that ground again. Did have a couple of thoughts though...

I assume the photo you posted is before the repair, as I do not see any glue or filler there? What does it look like now?

I've glued a few bridges with this kind of crack through the pins and as of yet, I have not had one reopen. However, I am not a professional repairman so my sample size is small, limited to my own instruments and a charity case now and then. My method is to start by closing the crack, even made a clamp to help with that, then I wick thin CA into the crack. If they're filling the gap with dust and flooding that with CA, I can see it opening again under tension. The CA has no strength to hold in tension under that scenario. If it's going to hold, the crack has to be closed. High quality fresh CA is a must as well.

Originally Posted by SpruceGoose_88

3. In regards to guitar design: Is there a reason why the bridge pins are not staggered? Day job is an engineer and that is something that stood out to me when I first noticed the crack propagating through all of the pin holes. If designed something like that and it continually cracked, I would get heat for it. Is there sonically a reason for it, or has it just become traditional and they don't want to mess with it?

It's tradition, and has been since 1930. Martin just last year began changing the bridge pins to follow the line of the saddle. I do not like the look and prefer the old way. It may be slightly more prone to cracking, but it's not so common that I see it as a big problem. I just prefer the traditional look.

Originally Posted by SpruceGoose_88

4. It seems to me that it would be more difficult to make any glue stick to a hydrated substrate. Is it possible the re-humidification is what is causing the glue joint to pop?

Most glues used in instrument making are water based, so the amount of moisture in properly humidified wood is not a problem.

Originally Posted by SpruceGoose_88

First off the buzzing was only happening when I was capoing or baring higher on the fret board , at first I thought it was just one of the frets popping up. I guess it still could have been if it was dry. However, I will say that there was a night and day change. It was fine the night before (I even did a recording, no buzz) and the next evening it was buzzing. When I noticed the crack, I assumed that because it happened so abruptly it was the crack?

That is typical of excess relief. I'd be very surprised if the bridge crack is in any way related to the buzz.

Originally Posted by SpruceGoose_88

My biggest concern is that the bridge is somehow not stable at the base glue joint, which is why the crack may be moving/popping when it is brought up to tension. I just don't want don't want to to spring for a new bridge if the cause of the crack in the first place was aided by a faulty glue joint which should be covered by Martin?

I think that is highly unlikely. I also think it's unlikely that low humidity caused the bridge to crack through the pins. You'd normally see other issues long before that. Ebony is hard, and some might even say brittle. IMO a piece as big as a bridge is much more likely to crack from stress than dryness. I'm not sure where you took it, so I can't comment directly on their assessment or work, but I do know from my own experience that all repair shops are not equal is skill and knowledge. Unless I trusted the repairman completely, I'd want a second opinion about this being a warranty repair. Seems to me it might/should be covered on a relatively new guitar.

Also, $250 seems a little steep for a bridge replacement on a new guitar where replacement parts are available. My repairman will handcraft a vintage replacement bridge in BRW for that amount.

One other thing, there is always some risk of finish damage when removing and replacing a bridge. Skilled repairman will generally do clean work, but you have to accept that there is some risk. Plus, Martin now routes away the finish and a tiny bit of wood making a "pocket that the bridge sits in now. This makes bridge removal bit more touchy.

[SpruceGoose_88]

Originally Posted by Todd Yates

Charles answered everything pretty clearly, as is his custom, so I'll try not plow that ground again. Did have a couple of thoughts though...

I assume the photo you posted is before the repair, as I do not see any glue or filler there? What does it look like now?

The previous picture I had previously posted is the before.
I just picked it up yesterday, its seems like either way I wanted to see where it stands. Here are the after pictures:

https://imgur.com/a/MgdQo

It plays great, no buzz I don't notice anything wrong at all. Is it worth chasing? I just noticed the one middle pin is sticking up higher than the others... Kind of annoying, but a problem?

[redir]

Don't be tempted to push the pin down. It's quite possible that the pins not fitting properly is what causes the split in the first place. IF you push it down you are essentially driving a wedge into it. If it really drives you crazy then loosen the string all the way and see if you can gently push it in. Proper keyhole slots would have been a good option for this bridge too (or any bridge for that matter)/

I'd just leave it. If it gets worse then you will need a new bridge.