Crack repair questions...

Red_Label · #1 03-07-2013, 08:58 AM

Hi all. I've got a sweet little "baby jumbo" Washburn that I've had for several years now. I bought it at a substantial discount because it had a crack in the top that's about 3" long and runs from the soundhole along the grain towards the bridge. It hasn't affected playability and it hasn't grown in length at all. It ranges from very hard to see when the guitar is properly humidified, to slightly more noticeable when it's dry.

But I've decided that I want to try to repair this crack myself. I don't have a clue how to PROPERLY do so. I'm very handy with tools and have access to a wide, guitar body clamp. So my plan has just been to get some glue in the crack, and then clamp it. What glue? I have regular carpenter's wood glue. And how to get it in the crack. I was trying to think of ways to get it in the crack from underneath, but I dunno how to do that without just dabbing it on my finger and running it along the crack area under there and then clamping. Or I could do the same on the top of the guitar with my finger, clamp it, then gently wash-off the glue residue on top with water (assuming the glue is water soluble of course).

I want to state that the guitar is an inexpensive guitar. It's a solid top, but laminate sides and back. I love the way it looks, feels, plays and even sounds. But it's not an expensive guitar like my American Breedloves. So I'm not bent on taking it to our competent tech who lives an hour and a half away, waiting months, and spending more than I paid for the guitar to get this fixed. I just want to do it myself and my biggest concern is doing it well enough that it takes and the crack is no longer visible to anyone but maybe me (because I know it was there).

gitnoob · #2 03-07-2013, 10:55 AM

If you can easily open the crack, then Titebond (original formula) will work well and cleans up with a moist rag.

Humidify the guitar first to close up the crack as much as possible.

Put a flat caul on both sides of the crack (like some scrap wood), put some wax paper between the cauls and top to keep from gluing them to the top, and clamp.

After it's set, you might want to put a spruce patch inside, but you probably don't have any spruce laying around....

Red_Label · #3 03-07-2013, 11:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gitnoob

If you can easily open the crack, then Titebond (original formula) will work well and cleans up with a moist rag.

Humidify the guitar first to close up the crack as much as possible.

Put a flat caul on both sides of the crack (like some scrap wood), put some wax paper between the cauls and top to keep from gluing them to the top, and clamp.

After it's set, you might want to put a spruce patch inside, but you probably don't have any spruce laying around....

Excellent! Thanks for the advice. And I'd thought about the patch deal, but no... I don't have a piece of spruce laying around. I will ask my local guitar shop if they do though -- as they're the ones I'll be borrowing the wide clamp from (and who I bought the guitar from in the first place).

Richie H · #4 03-07-2013, 12:10 PM

Be sure that you cover the ends of the crack too with the patch, it would be a shame after your work if it cracks further.. Small diamond shaped patches will also work:

I don't have a lot of experience with this, but succesfully repaired one using this method after I read advice on a Dutch forum. Also be sure that the grain lines of the patch are purpendicular to the grain of the top.

charles Tauber · #5 03-07-2013, 01:12 PM

With the Ramirez you have pictured, the split runs under the cross brace, indicating that the cross brace is loose, at least in that area, and also needs to be reglued.

Richie H · #6 03-07-2013, 01:24 PM

I noticed, but I posted this photo just to show what I meant with a diamond shaped patch. It seems to me that a 4 inch patch wil have some effect on the sound. And the TS stated that the crack didn't progress in years, so a full lenght patch might be a little overdone. Some small ones will just ensure that it won't crack any further. If I am wrong about this, I stand corrected..

charles Tauber · #7 03-07-2013, 01:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Richie H

If I am wrong about this, I stand corrected..

No, not wrong.

In my opinion, it depends upon where the crack is whether to use diamonds or a full-size patch. In the upper bout, I'd likely use a full patch: lower bout more likely diamonds to reduce any affect on sound.

Tony_in_NYC · #8 03-07-2013, 02:24 PM

He said the crack goes from the sound hole to the bridge. The bridge plate and bridge should prevent the crack from going south and the sound hole puts an end to its northward progress. Diamond patches should be fine in this case by my estimation. If you can't find any spruce scraps, I have tons laying around I could send you some. Send me a PM or email me, Tony at CostaGuitars dot com. I spaced it out so the bots dont attack me with spam, but I think you can figure out how to put my email address back together!
You could also use the thin plywood sold in hobby shops for building model airplanes. They sell small pieces and it is super thin, but strong. With the size diamond patches you need, that should work fine. Not that I condone the use of plywood in guitars, but whatever works, you know?

scottishrogue · #9 03-09-2013, 04:20 PM

I hope I can get some feedback on my situation. I purchased a Martin guitar recently, and when it arrived, the peghead had broken off!!! I filed a claim with the shipper, and I'm waiting to hear back from them, but I might need to provide them with a repair estimate. Do luthiers give free estimates, or do they charge and then credit you, if you have them do the repair?

Personally, I think I could do this repair myself. The break was clean without any splinters. Which would be better to use... Titebond or Elmer's Carpenters Glue?

Has anyone ever had to deal with FedEx for shipping damage? The cost of the guitar + shipping was just under $500, and the seller insured the guitar for $500, but the guitar is actually worth a lot more, but I managed to get a great bargain. It's probably worth around $1000. If the shipping company agrees to pay the full price, what happens to my guitar? Can I keep it, or do they take it? I don't want to give it up.

Any feedback would be much appreciated.

Glen

YamaYairi · #10 03-09-2013, 04:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by scottishrogue

I hope I can get some feedback on my situation. I purchased a Martin guitar recently, and when it arrived, the peghead had broken off!!! I filed a claim with the shipper, and I'm waiting to hear back from them, but I might need to provide them with a repair estimate. Do luthiers give free estimates, or do they charge and then credit you, if you have them do the repair?

Personally, I think I could do this repair myself. The break was clean without any splinters. Which would be better to use... Titebond or Elmer's Carpenters Glue?

Has anyone ever had to deal with FedEx for shipping damage? The cost of the guitar + shipping was just under $500, and the seller insured the guitar for $500, but the guitar is actually worth a lot more, but I managed to get a great bargain. It's probably worth around $1000. If the shipping company agrees to pay the full price, what happens to my guitar? Can I keep it, or do they take it? I don't want to give it up.

Any feedback would be much appreciated.

Glen

You should really start your own thread for this, but from your description it should be a straight forward fix, provided you can get the headstock perfectly lined up (no gaps in the crack) and can clamp it properly. Either of those glues will be fine, I think they are equivalent. I use Elmer's Carpenter Glue.
Really you should get the shipper to pay for a professional luthier to do the repair. If it's a new guitar, you should send it to Martin.

scottishrogue · #11 03-09-2013, 07:38 PM

Thanks YamaYairi for the feedback. I trust only a few luthiers, but there is only one in my area. That would be Charlie Hoffman, Hoffman Guitars. He is probably far too busy making custom guitars to bother with my problem, but I will probably talk to someone at their shop about the cost of either repair or replacing the entire neck, if necessary. It will be a good excuse to get a free tour of the shop!!!