|
|
#76
02-06-2012, 06:46 PM
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
|
|
#78
02-06-2012, 10:55 PM
|
|||
|
|||
|
Sometimes through the AGF I get to learn the meaning of a new (to me) word, like...
pillock [ˈpɪlək] n Brit slang a stupid or annoying person [from Scandinavian dialect pillicock penis] Collins English Dictionary – Complete and Unabridged Which is hard to reconcile with... "BE NICE! The Acoustic Forum is a happy place. Mean people are not welcome here. If you can't say something nice, don't say anything at all. Treat others with respect."
__________________
1950 Martin 00-18 RainSong Concert Hybrid Orchestra Model 12 Fret Eastman E20OOSS. Strandberg Boden Original 6 Eastman T185MX G&L ASAT Classic USA Butterscotch Blonde Rickenbacher Lap Steel Voyage-Air VAD-2 Martin SW00-DB Machiche 1968 Guild F-112 Taylor 322e 12 Fret V Class
|
|
#79
02-23-2012, 04:47 PM
|
||||
|
||||
|
Double sides
The small shop custom builders that use 2 layers of solid wood for the sides almost always refer to this method of construction as "Double Sides" and not laminate sides. Yes, 2 solid pieces are "laminated" together but this is not what is traditionally meant by the terms laminate or plywood.
Some builders use the same material for each of the 2 sides that are glued (doubled) together and some do not. For instance, Somogyi uses Brazilian rosewood on the outside (showing side) and a different wood on the inside (it is not double-Brazilian due to the cost and limited supply of Brazilian). But often builders do use the same wood. Double Sides are done to make the rims more rigid, not cut costs. In fact, Double Sides cost Custom builders significantly more in both materials (wood) and labor (effort to cut, thickness, sand, bend, glue, etc.). Single solid wood sides are much easier and cheaper as a building method. The term Double Sides is used help to differentiate this method of construction from typical factory laminate guitars. The typical laminate factory guitar has more than two layers of wood (or pressboard) & glue and does typically have alternate grain direction on the layers and is done to cut costs (cheaper). The Double Sides of the typical custom builder do not have opposing grain like the plywood/laminates. The grain typically runs length-wise on the guitar as you would expect. It would be VERY difficult to find lumber of a dimension to allow solid wood Double Sides of opposing grain. (Giant Sequoia?) Custom builders also often add reverse kerfing or solid lining for the top and back attachment make the rims much stiffer yet - something I've never seen on a factory guitar, solid wood or laminated.
__________________
Best regards, Ed
|
|
#80
02-23-2012, 05:03 PM
|
|||
|
|||
|
Quote:
Quote:
|
|
#81
07-30-2014, 05:51 AM
|
|||
|
|||
|
Just wanted to chime in with my experience on this:
I own a $4K Martin D-41 and a $3K Gibson Hummingbird which, to me, are the highest-end acoustic guitars I'll ever own. They are beautiful in looks, playability and sound. I've also owned a few laminated guitars with solid necks and tops over the years, usually Yamaha and Alvarez. Those can be great guitars for the money, but I always ended up getting rid of them, either because they didn't inspire me or because even the ones with solid spruce tops would cave in the winter time - that was long before I got into solid wood guitars and learned how to properly care for an acoustic. So one of my points is that, for all the theory about laminated guitars being more durable, if the top is solid spruce, it can crack in low humidity just like any solid wood guitar. I have recently had an altogether new experience. I went to a Bluegrass festival to hear some music, but happened to stop by a vendor booth called Tanglewood guitars. They're made in the UK and this dealer was down from Canada. All of them were beautiful, having very fancy laminated backs and sides, all with solid spruce tops. I tried a couple and you could instantly hear the stiff, bright sound. But for roughly $500 you could have one heck of a laminated guitar... and then I saw the TW49-D in Antique Natural. I pulled it down and played it and fell in love with it almost insantly. It's a copy of a pre-war 1940's D-18 from their newer Historic Sundance series. It looks and sounds surprisingly like a D-18, just a bit stiffer like that "new guitar" sound. Plenty of deep bass, mids, and the highs are not too bright or tinny. Laminated mahogany back and sides, solid spruce top, one-piece mahogany neck, scalloped bracing, vintage finish, medium-wide grain spruce top, a wide neck (1 + 3/4") with the Martin-style volute behind the headstock, vintage open-style tuners, tortoise pick guard, aged white body binding on the front and back of the body, Martin headstock shape, and a Poly finish for durability. This guitar sounded and played beautifully. Their usual price was $500 with no case, but they sold it to me for the weekend promotional price for a paltry $330 for the guitar + $80 for the beautiful Martin-style case. I brought it home and compared it to my high-end guitars. It has slightly less volume and dimension, probably more due to the Poly finish, but man it certainly holds it's own. I put it under the "microscope" and it's built flawlessly. Not a single thing out of spec anywhere. The action is lower than my high-endies with no buzz. It stays perfectly in tune for days at a time. Can't say enough great things about it. Right now it's my most played acoustic because the darned thing is so much fun and I don't have to worry about being so careful with it. > Here's a YouTube demo I found (you'll have to ignore the background noise, but the demo says it all. Also know that there is a clear sticker at the top of the sound hole that gets removed, it's not inlay or anything: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C6KJEfa7Hyk > Here's another video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RakMcrlJPTY > Here's a pic. You can view the specs here: http://tanglewoodguitars.com/detail.php?id=64 
__________________
Disclaimer: All my statements are my opinion. I know nothing about everything. Last edited by Pheof; 07-30-2014 at 07:09 AM.
|
