#16
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Naptha is a petroleum distillate. On a hard poly finish it might not be harmful if applied and wiped back off but I wouldn't use it on an unfinished fingerboard!
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#17
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WD40, I think, has a fish oil base, not to say that there may not be hydrocarbons elsewhere in the can. I wouldn't have thought of using it on a musical instrument.
There's a glue remover product here in Australia called De-Solv-it which is citrus based rather than petroleum. I haven't tried it on a guitar but it's certainly been gentle on other surfaces I've tried. |
#18
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Per the WD-40 website:
"What surfaces or materials are OK to use WD-40 on? WD-40 can be used on just about everything. It is safe for metal, rubber, wood and plastic. WD-40 can be applied to painted metal surfaces without harming the paint. Polycarbonate and clear polystyrene plastic are among the few surfaces on which to avoid using a petroleum-based product like WD-40." As an inveterate WD-40 abuser I can tell you that if you use it on unfinished wood, it will leave a greasy stain. |
#19
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I use Ronsonol lighter fluid. I've taken off pickguards and cleaned all my guitars with it.
I thought you guys were talking about going to the GOO (grand ole opry) when I saw the subject glue remover.. hmm what a let down.
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Guitars: Eastman AC710, Eastman E10P, Stonebridge GS23-CR, Gibson Chet Atkins CEC/CE, Sigma 000MC-1STE Retired and in search of a happy ending.. but not soon!! |
#20
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I'm assuming you are aware that lighter fluid is Naptha (which also used to be marketed as White Gas or Coleman Campstove Fuel). When I'm buying lighter fluids, I always check the ingredient list - and if it has other stuff besides naptha in it, I look at the other brands. |
#21
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Excellent point. I didn't know that, but probably should have. I was thinking more about use on a raw fingerboard than on a poly finish, but you're right, and I just learned something (besides "Don't spout off when you don't have the facts!" ; )
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#22
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Quote:
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Guitars: Eastman AC710, Eastman E10P, Stonebridge GS23-CR, Gibson Chet Atkins CEC/CE, Sigma 000MC-1STE Retired and in search of a happy ending.. but not soon!! |
#23
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Yeah, I figured you did. The lighter fluid bottles fit my shelf better than a gallon can... |
#24
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warning
I just thought i would weigh in on this point.
There is a product called , Goof Off... it is not Goo Gone which is citrus like.. this stuff is zylene and smells like napha,, but very caustic on a guitar finish (esp nitrocellulose_ I used it once to remove a pickguard, and it crazed the finish badly, so be very careful not to use Goof Off. Rick |
#25
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Do not use naptha!!! Or kerosene, gasoline, MEK, any petroleum based solvents.
Don't use WD-40 (for anything in my opinion). It attracts dirt. Don't use Armor All, it will dry it out. Lemon Pledge is very good. I recommend it highly. Probably even for your fingerboard (?). Goo Gone is probably OK. I have used it in a lot of different applications like on fiberglass (even fabric covered) sailplanes, wood (finished and unfinished), even on my skin to get rid of medical tape residue, and I have never seen any problems. Never used it on a guitar though and I would not recommend it for your fingerboard. I have also had very good luck using Gibson's guitar polish to remove the residue from the adhesive off an external piezo pick-up on my Martin (nitro finish) mandolin. On finished wood, I would recommend the most benign product available. On your fingerboard, Taylor recommends using steel wool and then linseed oil. Linseed oil??? You'll have a stinky guitar in my opinion, but that's what Taylor recommends.
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RaulB Pontificator Extradordinaire '87 Guild GF-30 Bld (blonde) '89 Seagull S-Black Velvet '06 R. Taylor Series 1 (koa) All 3 Taylor Liberty Tree Guitars 2 mandolins, 2 dulcimers, 1 mandola, 2 bodhrans "It may not be smart or correct, but it's one of the things that make us what we are." --Red Green, "The New Red Green Show" Last edited by raulb; 01-15-2009 at 06:22 PM. |
#27
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Vincent |
#28
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Silicone is a problem because not only will it attract dirt, but it can form a very stubborn film which can make later repairs more difficult. And if it seeps into bare wood... |
#29
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I use good ol' fashioned elbow grease and water, and a super fine steel wool for the unfinished fretboard. Polishes frets at the same time. Next, to condition the fretboard, I use natural boiled linseed oil. Works 1,000 times better than lemon oil I used to use.
I've used naptha to clean an ebony fretboard, and honestly... It wasn't very effective for me. Still required as much elbow grease as a damp cloth. So why risk it, when there is so much debate... That's the conclusion I came to. As always, YMMV. I'd highly recommend boiled linseed oil to seal and condition ebony and rosewood fretboards, though. |
#30
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Yeah I tried to use Goof Off to, and it left big splotchy marks on my J-30's body. Ridiculously frustrating. Any help on how to get rid of them? I think it removed some of the finish or something, but I rubbed it down with Denatured Alcohol and it made it a little bit better. But I'd still like to make it look better. Helpppp???
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1987 Gibson J-30 1967 Epiphone FT79N Texan 1953 Martin D-18 |