Can any guitar techs out there answer this

[mickthemiller]

I need some information (not trade secrets) about what a typical guitar tech would consider being a setup procedure for a guitar. I ask because I do all my own set ups on every guitar I get, new, used, whatever. I normally take a look at how things are with the guitar before I start. Play it, look at strings, action at nut and 12th fret, the neck relief. Look at the state of the nut, the bridge, the saddle, the fret board, the saddle, the tuners. I would not say I have a check list I go through (maybe I should) but I do give the guitar the once over to see what needs to be done. When I begin the set up I take off the strings, check the bridge pins, lower the saddle to my liking, clean the fret board and the frets, check the machines are fixed securely. If there are any high frets I attend to them. I crown the frets if need be. I at least polish the frets and give the board a very little oiling unless it's very dry. I check the bridge for any muck in the saddle slot. While the guitar has no strings I stick my hand in and have a feel at around to check all is secure. I file the nut slots or at least any that need it, I don't like hard work making F chords!. I do this last thing after the new strings are on. I think I've covered most of what I do. Oh I always put new strings on but at the initial stage ascertain whether I need to try 11s or 12s, sometimes I find 11s are more suited to some guitars. When the guitar is strung I adjust the truss rod if needed and tune and retune as it settles down. Thing is would a tech/luthier do all or most of this and would it all come under the regular charge for a set up? Finally, my reason for asking is that I just bought a guitar that was "professionally" set up at a cost of around $130. What should I have expected for this?

[brianmay]

Eee lad, tha's abowt coovered it nicely

[fazool]

The one other thing is to simply check/confirm the neck angle is appropriate. For a bolt-on neck guitar, this can include simple neck angle adjustment/shimming.

[Athens]

You've covered it very thoroughly, but I'm surprised to see that you were quoted $130 for a set up.

Was fretwork also done, a new nut and saddle, or other work not mentioned? Are good techs or luthiers that pricey where you are?

[mickthemiller]

Originally Posted by Athens

You've covered it very thoroughly, but I'm surprised to see that you were quoted $130 for a set up.

Was fretwork also done, a new nut and saddle, or other work not mentioned? Are good techs or luthiers that pricey where you are?

Good question! I was not quoted $130. I live in the UK and I was told I was getting a £100 setup for free with a guitar. When I got the guitar I noted some small totally unmissable things that were not done. In fact I don't believe the guitar was anything but factory fresh - I know the makers do a really fine job on setting these guitars up, I have two other models from them. As I set up all my own guitars, I have no real idea of costs for doing a decent job. Thanks to you guys I know better now, both about costs of setups and about this dealer.

[mercy]

I live in So California and that is low if the frets were leveled and crowned but high if just adjusted. I mentioned where I am cause things are probably different in the UK

[Norml]

The only thing not mentioned is that the relief should be checked and set properly before adjusting the saddle height.

As far as price, depends on what was done. Relief, nut slot, and saddle adjustments only shouldn't cost that much ($60).

[Rodger Knox]

A setup is a list of items (height of nut slots, neck relief, and action/saddle height)that are adjusted to obtain optimum playability. The items on this list interact with each other, so the sequence in which they are done does make a difference. There are several sequences that can be made to work, the key is to eliminate any effects of the adjustments made later in the sequence, such as capo the first fret to set the action height before setting the nut slots. The quality of the fretwork will usually limit how low the action can be without buzzing. Improving fretwork is not usually included in a setup, except correcting minor problems.

[murrmac123]

Originally Posted by Rodger Knox

capo the first fret to set the action height before setting the nut slots.

I have seen this practice recommended before, but have never quite got my head round what exactly it is supposed to achieve.

The bottom of the nut slot should be in the same plane as the tops of the first two frets ... for all six strings. The nut slots can actually be set correctly without having strings on the guitar at all.

If the frets are in perfect condition (which they should be, otherwise any set-up is a waste of time) then if the nut slot bottoms are perfectly aligned with the tops of the frets, any subsequent problems like buzzing, or back buzz, are either due to insufficient relief, or the upper frets requiring fallaway sanded in.

[redir]

The only think I can think of in regards to the capo thing is that if the nut is not set up properly then if you capo the first fret you will get a better reading for what the saddle height should be by measuring the action at the 12th fret, doubling that difference to know how much saddle to remove. Then when you take the capo off you have the added bonus of getting it just a hair higher in case you went too low, just guessing on that part.

But if you set the nut up proper first then there will be no need to capo the first fret imho.

[Rodger Knox]

Originally Posted by murrmac123

I have seen this practice recommended before, but have never quite got my head round what exactly it is supposed to achieve.

I used to advocate a single sequence for setups, relief, nut slots, action, intonation. I was convinced that was the only way, and it's still the way I work.

A while back, there was an article in American Luthirie about setups that used a completely difference sequence, I believe it was written by Evan Gluck. Evan certainly knows what he is doing, so I no longer consider that sequence wrong, but I have not adopted it as the best way for me. I also do not see the point in altering the "natural" sequence.

[rokdog49]

A proper set up minus fret work by my guy costs $35-$50
That would include the saddle and nut mods if needed, bridge pin holes and relief. Parts are extra.

[charles Tauber]

A basic setup is typically limited to adjusting neck relief, string height at the nut and saddle and, depending, adjusting intonation at the saddle to the physical limitations of the saddle thickness and position. As part of determining saddle height one should at least verify that is achievable with the existing neck angle. Usually, cleaning the fingerboard is part of that work. The price for that work can vary from one repair person to the next in the range of around $60 to $150.

The other work you mention can be done if requested, but is not usually part of a basic setup. Most will perform a general inspection of frets and exterior appearance.

[AZLiberty]

For a "setup" I expect the following:

Set neck relief properly.
Lower or raise the saddle as needed.
File the nut slots appropriately

Cost about $40, add another $20 if a new saddle is made.

A "fret dress" I would expect to pay another $30 or so on top of the setup fee.


On a 12-string I would expect to pay around $100.

[Nama Ensou]

Originally Posted by mickthemiller

I file the nut slots or at least any that need it, I don't like hard work making F chords!

I read about a lot of players filing the nut slots to lower the string height at the nut but what I've always done is to remove the nut and shave material from the bottom. It's a much easier process and quite safe as long as you're very firm with your down pressure to assure that the bottom is evenly shaved. Once you've determined you're at the right height for the lowest strings, then you're able to assess whether or not any of the slots are still high and out of sync with the rest, which is usually not a concern and the shaving process is much quicker, also requiring much lesser degree of expertise than the slotting process.