Filing the saddle slots?

[Pheof]

I've got a guitar that has great action but the G, D and A strings are just a tad high compared to the others which are perfect. Would it be a bad idea - and is it even common in this case - to file the slots of only the G, D and A? Or is the "proper" way to do this to level the top of the bridge and re-cut all slots and then use a shim if necessary, or even start over with a new saddle?

[John Arnold]

Do you mean the nut?
Typically, saddles on acoustic guitars are not slotted.
If it is the nut, then it is perfectly acceptable to lower the slots individually. In fact, that is the preferred method to get it 'just right'.

[Pheof]

Originally Posted by John Arnold

Do you mean the nut?
Typically, saddles on acoustic guitars are not slotted.
If it is the nut, then it is perfectly acceptable to lower the slots individually. In fact, that is the preferred method to get it 'just right'.

Nah, I mean the saddle. It doesn't really have slots, but tiny "notches" just to keep the string spacing right (or maybe they were just naturally created by the tension). I was thinking about filing a few of them down to make the string height at the 12th fret more evenly balanced from:

High e = 5/64"
Low E = 7/64"

That's where I like the action to be. But a few strings are a bit high for the transition to be smooth form e to E. I was curious if it's the "wrong" thing to do - to file the top of the bridge slightly. I'd rather do it using the proper method of there is such a thing.

[pornlando]

Bump, I had a similar question for the experianced fellas in the forum as I am a complete newbie working on my first saddle...

I just finished shaping the saddle using the original plastic one as a referance...I copied the originals shape as best I could using bone...one I have the guitar strung up and tuned do I have to worry about the string rolling around on the bridge? Or will the tension keep them in place...I notice the original has tiny lil notches where the strings sit but Im not sure if they were intentionally cut or just the result of tension from the strings.....thanks in advance for your time. I have included a link (For some reason my google drive wont co operate with me directly adding the pictures to this website, so a link was the only way I could share) to a picture showing the original and the bone one I have created..The new saddle I made is the bone one on the right..Its my very first one so please excuse the sloopy work! The next step is to mount the saddle and file it down to the pegs other then that shes done....at least I think it is...you experianced builders could very well feel differantly! lol

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B53...ew?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B53...ew?usp=sharing

[stanron]

You don't need notches on the saddle of a pin bridge to keep the strings in place. The pins do that. A notch free saddle is ideal. If you want to lower some strings and leave others you can start with notches to find the right height and then smoothe the rest of the saddle to those positions. Over time a plastic saddle can get notches from wearing but most saddles start off smoothe.

[Pheof]

Originally Posted by stanron

You don't need notches on the saddle of a pin bridge to keep the strings in place. The pins do that. A notch free saddle is ideal. If you want to lower some strings and leave others you can start with notches to find the right height and then smoothe the rest of the saddle to those positions. Over time a plastic saddle can get notches from wearing but most saddles start off smoothe.

Perfect! I would have never thought of that - cut the notches, then reshape (smooth) the top of the saddle flat. Thanks!

[John Arnold]

Just file the saddle down from the top. I do it all the time.
Notches in a saddle can work, but they also can cause strange buzzing, and if you play really hard, they can cause the string to break at the saddle.