#1
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my new OM form
This is my new OM form. It's made from 4 layers of 3/4" MDF with 4 coats of polyurethane. It has mahogany sides in it( the white you see is a thin layer of foam rubber). I bent the sides by hand first, got the form ready, then put the sides in the oven on 200 degrees. Our stove has the baking element under the bottom of the oven so you can pour water in the bottom to steam clean it. I put about a quart of water in the bottom, put the sides on the top rack and steamed them for about 25 minutes. I took them out and quickly put them in the form and tightened the inside spreaders. Trying for accuracy. Any thoughts, anyone? |
#2
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My new OM form
Sorry, can't remember how to post photos from photobucket, but if you right click on the little image icon in the upper left corner then choose open in new tab you can see it. Danny
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#3
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To post photos from Photobucket, just click on the "IMG" link in photobucket and then paste it into your post here. The photobucket album has to be public, I think.
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Waddy |
#4
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I'm not really sure what your question is.
I haven't seen an oven with the heating element outside the enclosure that allows water to be poured into the bottom of the oven. Interesting idea. Bad idea, generally, to use water and electricity without complete isolation. Water won't boil at 200 F (at or near sea level). So pouring water into a 200 F oven won't create steam, just a moist environment. Usually, the bending temperature for bending irons and heated forms is much higher than 200 F. In days past - no so much anymore - some people would soak sides in sub-boiling hot water for an hour or so before either bending over an un-heated form or bending over a hot pipe. In the 1970's Charles Fox invented a side bender heated with light bulbs. Variations of it have become very common. Whatever method works for you is fine. There are many ways to accomplish the task. |
#5
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Quote:
do you have room to clamp up your kerfing? |
#6
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arie, good question, short answer no. The sides are exposed about 1/2" on either side. After gluing in the end blocks I'll loosen the spreaders and slide the sides up, exposing 1" on top. Then attach kerfing, glue on top, trim top, remove big spreaders, slide until back edge is exposed, install a small spreader at the waist, kerf, glue on back and remove small spreader through soundhole. Danny
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#7
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Looks good Dan, built to last. Here's my thought, when I get the sides in my form I don't move things for any reason. I close the box and remove the last spreader through the sound hole just like you said. I start profiling the sides with a block plane and finish in a radius dish after I glue the linings. I don't want anything to move when I'm going through that process.
SA |