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First Build/Opinions on Binding?
Hi folks,
I will be building my first guitar. I've been working on project guitars, and I still have a lot to learn and practice before attempting the build. This is actually a custom kit guitar. The guitar will be an OM. The sides and back are Peruvian Walnut, with Carpathian spruce for the top. The fingerboard and bridge are ebony. Photos are below. I would like everyone's opinion on binding. I'm really leaning toward bloodwood, or quilted sapele. I know the bloodwood will have to be worked carefully so that it doesn't bleed into the spruce. I photoshopped potential "bindings" into the photo of the sides. BTW, I quickly ran upstairs to photograph the back. If you notice a difference in the tone of color between the sides and back, it's just different lighting. The color tone of the sides are a good representation of the actual color. 1. Curly Koa 2. Sapele 3. Bloodwood Thanks
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Diane Kauffmds |
#2
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#3
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Congrats to this nice walnut! I guess it will turn out a bit more dark with lacquer but appealing.
With koa there would be a common brownish tone whereas both other woods will give a more contrasty accent. All three are nice. Iīd prefer either koa or quilted sapele.They seem to me more vivid. But thatīs only my personal taste. I donīt want to make your decision more difficult, but you could even have a look at quilted snakewood. Thatīs what Iīm thinking of for binding and even for the fingerboard. Well, only my 2 cents...
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Thanks! Martin D28 (1973) 12-string cutaway ...finished ;-) Hoyer 12-string (1965) Yamaha FG-340 (1970) Yamaha FG-512 (ca. 1980) D.Maurer 8-string baritone (2013-2014) and 4 electric axes |
#4
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Quote:
I'm glad you mentioned snakewood. I had thought of it, but forgot to download a photo to see how it would look. Here are the rims with snakewood.
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Diane Kauffmds |
#5
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Of the three I like the sapele for the curl and color with koa second, though I think flamed maple would provide a better contrast.
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(2006) Larrivee OM-03R, (2009) Martin D-16GT, (1998) Fender Am Std Ash Stratocaster, (2013) McKnight McUke, (1989) Kramer Striker ST600, a couple of DIY builds (2013, 2023) |
#6
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I have only worked with Koa a bit but I have heard others complain that it is too soft for a binding (takes dings easily). So good looking though, I have some and will probably eventually use it. Whatever you choose be sure to post pics!
I have never used bloodwood but I've read about colour bleed during finishing so you may want to check up on that as well. I also like Kwakataks idea about going with curly maple, it's easy to work and looks amazing, but it sounds like you are going with the darker tones which is cool too. I almost went EIR binding on my latest EIR guitar with a purfling line to delineate things a bit. |
#7
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#8
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Who will be bending the bindings, you or the kit supplier? If it is the latter go for what really looks best to you. However if you will be bending them you may want to stay away from highly figured woods like the quilt you pictured as this is your first guitar. Figured bindings can be very difficult to bend, straight plain grained bindings can be difficult enough until one gains some experience. My best advice on first builds is to keep the trim simple without a lot of gingerbread. Simply concentrate on building a well made guitar instead of a flashy one.
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#9
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I've had nothing but trouble trying to bend bloodwood.
Koa tends to get lighter colored with age, at least under the finishes I've used. I find it contrasts better with a dark line than a light one. I, too, feel it's too soft for bindings. |
#10
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Bloodwood tends to split, suddenly, along grain lines when it is being bent. It is important to find pieces with near-zero runout for this reason.
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"Still a man hears what he wants to hear, and disregards the rest." --Paul Simon |
#11
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I don't have pics of the various binding options against Peruvian walnut, but it looks to be similar in colour to EIR and I do have some shots of most of the options:
Bloodwood against EIR: Curly Aus blackwood (a dead ringer for curly Koa) against EIR Snakewood against EIR Bloodwood bends like glass. It needs to be very hot to bend and then sets rock hard. It doesn't like multiple attempts at the same bend or it just cooks and locks up. I've not had trouble with it breaking or splitting, though. Bends need to be accurate, because it is so stiff afterwards that it is very difficult to force it into position. Snakewood falls into the same camp as bloodwood. I've not had any trouble bending curly koa sides, but I tend to use Aus blackwood for binding, just because it's easier to get here. Blackwood is an easy bend wood, but, as usual, you have to be more careful with the highly figured stuff. It doesn't fall apart on you like maple can, though. Blackwood is plenty hard enough for bindings. |
#12
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I usually like a simpler aesthetic with muted colors, and probably would do ebony or curly maple depending on what I was going for. If I had to choose between the three presented I'd pick the curly koa since to my eye it seems to be in the same family as the walnut color-wise. I'm not the biggest red-brown fan...
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#13
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I have to agree with the comments about the bloodwood. Have used it a number of times and while I've had no trouble bending it I have had it splinter while leveling it. Looks great on that guitar tho.
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#14
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I think that cherry would look wonderful .
It will tend to become red over time if not stained . Please don't confuse me with actually being worthy of being called a luthier . |
#15
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i suggest you control yourself. Last edited by arie; 09-08-2014 at 11:18 AM. |