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#1
06-12-2013, 04:57 PM
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First attempt at shaping a rectangular saddle blank
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I actually have a goatee. .. 
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#2
06-12-2013, 07:03 PM
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It can sometimes be preferable to remove (bevel) all sharp corners on saddles. Other than that, the proof is in the pudding - how does it sound??
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---- Ned Milburn NSDCC Master Artisan Dartmouth, Nova Scotia
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#4
06-12-2013, 08:36 PM
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It's also fun to use finishing pads for some high-shine polishing, dependent upon the guitar's aesthetic.
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#5
06-12-2013, 09:40 PM
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Square edges on saddles are problematic when using palm-muting techniques, especially palm muting combined with rhythmic strumming.
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---- Ned Milburn NSDCC Master Artisan Dartmouth, Nova Scotia
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#6
06-13-2013, 10:38 AM
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I was in a hurry when I first posted this. I haven't finished quite yet, so it sill looks a bit crude. The Hohner was a bit sharp on the lower 3 strings so I've been trying to get the bearing edge to sit further back than on the stock saddle for those strings. I'm finding it difficult to maintain a perfect radius while creating the bearing edge. I haven't even touched the sides yet.
My next step will be to shape the sides so it fits the saddle slot and take it down to roughly the ssame height as the old saddle and see if it intonates any better. If so then I'll be ready to remove the excess material and give it a sleeker look. Thanks guys, any tips? The tools I've been using are a small mill file and 220 grit sandpaper, a block of wood and a table vice. I've installed pre compensated saddles before and just took them down from the bottom. I wanted to try and do the whole job myself, so I bout 10 blanks on ebay for $27 to start out with.
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I actually have a goatee. .. Last edited by mustache79; 06-13-2013 at 11:05 AM.
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#7
06-13-2013, 10:56 AM
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Here's a photo album I made a few years ago, but I still use roughly the same process: https://picasaweb.google.com/1014724...ousticSaddles#
I like to make the saddle fit the slot first, before I do any shaping to the top.
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Bryan 
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#8
06-13-2013, 11:04 AM
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Quote:
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I actually have a goatee. ..
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#9
06-13-2013, 01:28 PM
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Quote:
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Bryan
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#10
06-14-2013, 12:14 PM
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Good show, and you learned something!
Aside from what you've done, I also put a very small bevel on all the bottom edges, just in case the corners of the saddle slot aren't themselves sharp. I want full contact with the bridge, on both the sides and bottom of the slot. Pat
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#11
06-17-2013, 12:28 PM
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UPDATE: Glorious results!
Had some spare time today so I went ahead and finished the saddle. I got the bearing edge and radius perfect. I proceeded to soften the edges so they aren't so square and brought it down to a nice 3/32" action with about .008" of relief in the neck. I did change the radius from the original saddle which was 16" to slightly flatter radius.
One thing I didn't mention before is this guitar has a piezo pickup. The stock saddle produced an uneven volume on the Low E, B and High E. I'm happy to report this is no longer the case. Also, if you look at the picture of the stock saddle the lower strings are not compensated at all. This resulted in the notes being sharp on said strings. This is also not longer the case as the new saddle makes the guitar intonate much better. I have to say, it is a noticeable difference in tone and volume from the stock saddle as well. I'm still using the strings I had on before I replaced the saddle and the difference is undeniable. I'll pat myself on the back now...  Stock "Newbone" saddle  015 by Bohdan79, on Flickr New water buffalo bone saddle  010 by Bohdan79, on Flickr Tough to see bearing edge  004 by Bohdan79, on Flickr
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I actually have a goatee. ..
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