#1
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Nut slotting question
So here's a question I'm having a little trouble finding a direct answer to. When slotting a nut, what angle should you aim for? Closer to parallel with the string as it lies over the fretboard, closer to the angle from nut to tuning machine, or split the difference? Videos and web articles are mostly silent on that part of the process.
On a side note, StewMac's three cornered file is a real joy to crown frets with. Great tool! Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
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"You don't have to be great to start, but you have to start to be great." -Zig Ziglar Acoustics 2013 Guild F30 Standard 2012 Yamaha LL16 2007 Seagull S12 1991 Yairi DY 50 Electrics Epiphone Les Paul Standard Fender Am. Standard Telecaster Gibson ES-335 Gibson Firebird |
#2
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Split the difference.
Tom
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A person who has never made a mistake has never made anything |
#3
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Thanks! Appreciate the quick answer.
Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
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"You don't have to be great to start, but you have to start to be great." -Zig Ziglar Acoustics 2013 Guild F30 Standard 2012 Yamaha LL16 2007 Seagull S12 1991 Yairi DY 50 Electrics Epiphone Les Paul Standard Fender Am. Standard Telecaster Gibson ES-335 Gibson Firebird |
#4
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I always cut them straight, but i round out the back side of the slot (take the sharp corner off) so the strings don't bind.
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Bryan |
#5
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Nut slotting 101 - split the difference as Tom says.
Graduate level nut slotting - make a gentle curve in the nut slots (both vertically and horizontally) but still splitting the difference in angles to ensure the smoothest ride of the string across/through the nut slot so that any grabbing and pinging of the wraps is eliminated. When angling horizontally, you must be careful to ensure your string spacing is accurate.
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---- Ned Milburn NSDCC Master Artisan Dartmouth, Nova Scotia |
#6
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Got the slots cut nearly to depth. Split difference felt right and made sense, but I wanted to be sure before I committed to it. Thanks!
Next is removing some more of the extra material and a bit more shaping and polishing. Then, a final tweak of the string height after playing some more. I'm still a few thousandths high after using stacked feeler gages to set the initial slot depth. The old nut on this guitar was a pre-slotted one. Problem was, the installer (a well meaning friend of my bandmate) bought a 44mm instead of the correct 43mm, then ground down one end only to make it fit. It played a little odd, and looked a little odder. A nice properly fitted bone nut should be a welcome addition. Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
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"You don't have to be great to start, but you have to start to be great." -Zig Ziglar Acoustics 2013 Guild F30 Standard 2012 Yamaha LL16 2007 Seagull S12 1991 Yairi DY 50 Electrics Epiphone Les Paul Standard Fender Am. Standard Telecaster Gibson ES-335 Gibson Firebird |