#1
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Spray gun set up
Seems there are always lots of questions about spray finishing and sometimes it can seem like there is a fair amount of voodoo involved but in reality it is a fairly easy and straight forward process. One thing that never seems to get much mention is proper set up of the gun and proper technique in using it. So to help with that here is an article I wrote on the topic. Hope some of you find this helpful.
http://howardguitars.blogspot.com/20...-by-brian.html |
#2
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Brian,
Thanks for taking the time to post your thoughts on gun set up. Thinking about getting into UV cured poly, any thoughts on it? Mike |
#3
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Love painting with uv,
In theory, you could start painting the guitar at noon and be packaging it up in its case ready for shipping that night, painted /sanded / buffed. We like the uv gel so much we use that for all pore filling applications. Raw wood, pore filled ready for painting in minutes. Be warned the light is the dear part. Steve |
#4
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I do not use the UV but I do use a conventional peroxide cured polyester for my sealer and pore filler under all my finishes. It is 24 hours to sand and coat and that's quick enough for me without adding another piece of equipment. It is basically the same to spray though.
I run it through a similar gun with a 2.2 tip (if memory serves, need to actually go out and look). It is a gun designed for heavy body primer/surfacers. Same pressure and pattern. It kills the paint arrestors in the booth really quick. You really don't want to breathe this stuff when atomized |
#5
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I rememeber taking a tour of the Larrivee shop in Vancouver, where they were using UV cured finishes routinely. They had a large turntable set up where they would spray one body, rotate it into the back part of the cabinet where the UV source was isolated, and as soon as they had sprayed the next body they could rotate the table and the previous one was completely cured. Very, very impressive - but until they figure out better ways to repair and touch up those UV finishes, I'm going to avoid them.
Thanks for the info! Last time I used a spray rig was in a shop where we could lay out flat and coat 24 doors at a time, shooting from a 5 gal pot. Not a model I'd pursue for my home shop, but it would be nice to have that much space -
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More than a few Santa Cruz’s, a few Sexauers, a Patterson, a Larrivee, a Cumpiano, and a Klepper!! |
#6
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Brian, sorry to take your great gun thread in a different direction, maybe we could open this up in its own thread.
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Joe White ( o)===::: |
#7
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Quite allright Joe. I use the peroxide cure for that very reason among others. Do you know Pat Diburro? (hope I spelled that correct, sorry Pat) He does most of the repair work for Taylor and some other boutique makers and has been using UV for a long time. I have discussed his setup with him a fair bit. When he does it he does a double cure under the lights for each coat. He said and still recommends a 24 hour cure on the filler after that before topcaot as it is a bit easier to sand.
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#8
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Quote:
I've been using uv now for about 4 yrs and we do respray Taylor's as required, prs now use uv and because of it's speed of drying it is a perfect medium for assembly lines. I spoke with Taylor a while back re uncured gel, Taylor now uses uv cured gel and finish but it has a mix of something that allows any un cured sections to actually dry over time. I haven't used the newest stuff yet, still on my other tins, but it does work great. Steve |