Luthier Question: Bridge replacement ?

[mtnByker]

I have an inexpensive Olympia nylon string guitar which was damaged by FedEx. Somehow they managed to put a fork lift blade through the shipping carton and split the bridge as well as put a few scrapes in the top. The guitar has been in storage for a few years, but i am now trying to get something playable back out of it.

I have removed the damaged bridge and am scraping the last of the finish from the top. I have a replacement bridge ready to glue in place.

I have searched through fret.com and MIMF but cannot seem to find the answer to this...

My question:
I know that the distance from the 12th fret to the saddle should be the same as from the nut to the 12th fret. Is this measured to the edge of the saddle (the edge closest to the frets, of course), or to the center of the saddle? (I am guessing that the answer depends on whether the saddle is flat on top, or is 'peaked' to a single ridge in the center, and whether it needs to have any adjustments for intonation.)

Also:
I don't yet have a saddle to use, so I am not sure what material is best to use. Bone seems like overkill for such an inexpensive instrument. I'm pretty sure the original was just plastic. Would it be worth while to use bone or tusq on such an instrument?

thanks

[PWoolson]

I assume the slot on the new bridge has a slant to it. If this is the case, you need to measure for compensation.
To do this, measure from the front of the nut to the middle of the 12th fret. Double that number and add .0625 to it. That should be where the front of the saddle at the high e string will sit.
Then take your scale and add .1875" to it. That should be where the front of the saddle for the low E string should sit.
You'll also want to be very careful that it is centered. To to this, I put a long straight edge on the side of the fingerboard, with the bridge, taped onto the body, close to position, and make a mark right next to the pin hole on that side. Then do it again on the other side. Measure the difference and then move the bridge half of that distance to get it centered. Check again. Then check your scale again.
Every time you move it you need to measure everything again. Once satisfied where it will go, tape it down and drill the outside two holes. Then, with pins holding it in place, measure everything again (are you seeing a theme here?). If it's good to go, glue it down using the two pins as registration pins. Take them out after you get the clamps all tight (don't ask me how I learned that lesson).
Oh, and bone isn't overkill. The blank will only cost you $5 at the most and it will be a good learning experience in carving. Have fun with it.

[Monsoon1]

It's equal distance only for the high E string.

The saddle needs to taper progressively further back towards the thicker strings.

[mtnByker]

Originally Posted by PWoolson

I assume the slot on the new bridge has a slant to it. If this is the case, you need to measure for compensation.
To do this, measure from the front of the nut to the middle of the 12th fret. Double that number and add .0625 to it. That should be where the front of the saddle at the high e string will sit.
Then take your scale and add .1875" to it. That should be where the front of the saddle for the low E string should sit.
You'll also want to be very careful that it is centered. To to this, I put a long straight edge on the side of the fingerboard, with the bridge, taped onto the body, close to position, and make a mark right next to the pin hole on that side. Then do it again on the other side. Measure the difference and then move the bridge half of that distance to get it centered. Check again. Then check your scale again.
Every time you move it you need to measure everything again. Once satisfied where it will go, tape it down and drill the outside two holes. Then, with pins holding it in place, measure everything again (are you seeing a theme here?). If it's good to go, glue it down using the two pins as registration pins. Take them out after you get the clamps all tight (don't ask me how I learned that lesson).
Oh, and bone isn't overkill. The blank will only cost you $5 at the most and it will be a good learning experience in carving. Have fun with it.

Paul, thanks for the detailed info as to placement.

Actually the replacement bridge has a saddle slot that will run parallel to the frets, no angle at all. If I remember correctly I got it from ebay.

As I mentioned, this has been in storage for a while so I no longer have the original bridge to compare against. I've tried looking on the web for photos, but cannot find a good detailed picture of the original guitar (Olympia OC-5) to see how the saddle was placed. I just assumed that the parallel slot on the replacement part was because it is for a nylon string guitar instead of steel strings. Maybe I need to find a different replacement bridge?

[Cornerstone Guitars]

Nylon strings have less difference from each string (thickness) and less tension, therefore there is no need for much compensation as in steel string guitar. Thus the reason for a straight slot rather than angled.
I think Paul may have missed the fact it is a nylon string guitar. Paul? Pins in nylon strings?

[PWoolson]

Originally Posted by worshipguitar

Nylon strings have less difference from each string (thickness) and less tension, therefore there is no need for much compensation as in steel string guitar. Thus the reason for a straight slot rather than angled.
I think Paul may have missed the fact it is a nylon string guitar. Paul? Pins in nylon strings?

I did indeed overlook that. Ignore everything I said. Just measure to the front of the saddle slot. Centering is still important. You can do the same as I do but measure to the edge of the tie block or string holes.

[mtnByker]

Thanks

[Howard Klepper]

Not as much compensation needed as with a steel string, and a straight saddle is the norm. Set the front edge of the saddle 2 mm longer than the nominal scale length.