Build Thread #1 (sometimes you just need to jump)

[SnowManSnow]

On a side note. Is it ok to use acetone to clean the wood before finishing ?


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[SnowManSnow]

Originally Posted by SnowManSnow

On a side note. Is it ok to use acetone to clean the wood before finishing ?


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On second thought I suppose that would dissolve glue so it's a no go.


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[JonWint]

It can also soften plastic binding and dissolve the wood color pigments and smear it around.

Naphtha or alcohol are safer.

[SnowManSnow]

It's hard to believe but I've come to a stopping point until I nail down exactly how to finish this.
I'll be shaping the nut tomorrow / using feeler gauges to set the slots with some gauged but files....but that's about it!
Excited !


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[tahoeguitar]

Stewmac sells a book on finishing. I have one and after building 50 guitars and countless finish repairs I still refer to it a lot. Well worth having and taking the time to read and digest it before doing any finish work.

http://www.stewmac.com/How-To/Books/...p-By-Step.html

man I should buy some Stewmac stock as much time as I spend plugging them...

[SnowManSnow]

Well I JUST figured out the method for brushing varnish that seems to work best for me where I am as a builder(which is REALLY NEw)
A simple foam brush is the only way I can get the brush on thin enough not to look awful.
I bet I have tried 7 times w the brush, and basically sanded each one off because it just sucked.
Yes, I know it's an art and takes many decades of practice to become slightly adequate at it.

This is just the back.
After doing it I see I have a LOT of swirl marks from my last sanding down.
I'm torn between trying to sand it all down AGAIN, and calling it a huge learning experience and moving on with the process



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[SnowManSnow]

I'll definitely be buying some orphaned sides from somewhere to practice different finishing techniques before I do it again


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[Truckjohn]

Glad to hear you are getting it sorted out. Finishing is a lot more difficult and involved than most folks think... It's funny how there are all sorts of specialty tools made to save seconds in operations that take minutes.... But finishing takes HOURS and hours.... And nobody has really done much to really smooth out the process.

When scuffing between coats - only go with the grain. That ensures any scratches are less prominent running with the grain rather than obvious cross grain scratches.

Sandpaper wise - I like 320 or finer with a light touch. Keep a very careful eye on your sandpaper for pills and clogs. If you pick up a pill/clog - stop and pick it out or get a new scrap of paper.

[SnowManSnow]

Yea it's happening. Being my first build I'm willing to go forward and accept less than I normally guess I would. Not sure if that's smart or just bad haha
My next goal is to get the bridge set and bang that's almost it


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[SnowManSnow]

Going to measure exact scale length to place the ol' bridge.... then rig a way to get it strait and clamp
Oh and scrape the finish off where it goes



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[charles Tauber]

The scale length is the theoretical length of the vibrating string. It is used to calculate the position of the frets. Those calculations assume "ideal" strings are vibrating. To account for the differences between "ideal" strings and real strings, what is typically done is to lengthen the actual vibrating string length by moving the position that the strings break over the saddle. This additional length is referred to as compensation at the saddle, or saddle compensation. A typical amount of compensation is about 2 to 3 mm for the high E string and 3 to 5 mm for the low E string. The bridge and/or saddle slot should be positioned to achieve this.

In short, if you have the strings break over the saddle at the length of the scale length, your guitar will play sharp, out of tune.

I use a couple of pieces of double-sided carpet tape to hold the bridge in place while I scribe around it to mark its footprint. When scribing, be careful not to score into the top, just through the finish. If you score the top, it can lead to structural failure of the top - don't ask me how I know this.

If you drill through the top and bridge plate, through the bridge pin holes for the outside E strings, you can use bolts through the holes to clamp the bridge while the glue dries. This method has been described a number of times and a search will probably get you the information.

[SnowManSnow]

Well here it is
Actually it plays pretty dang good !
I do need to shave the saddle down some soon, but overall I'm happy.
The one area I would call "bad" is the finish . As many have said finishing is a whole other discipline!
So... build #1 in the books! Huge learning experience!
Build #2 has already begun!



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[SnowManSnow]

Some more pics







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[charles Tauber]

Congratulations: nicely done.

[SnowManSnow]

Originally Posted by charles Tauber

Congratulations: nicely done.

Well we can just say done haha
But thank you sir


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