Newbie Question (Bandsaw)

[jordangatenby]

Hello!

I am going to purchase a bandsaw very soon as I finally have the need for one. I want to get a good one and not have to re-buy in a year but I don't want to overkill. I'm going to need it for cutting out tops/backs and other shapes. How big to I need? I read 14 inches... Does that sound right? Any recommendations?

Thanks for the help!

[runamuck]

14" is fine unless you plan to resaw your own guitar parts. In that case, you need a stronger motor then you usually find on a 14" saw and at least an 8" resaw capability.

[jordangatenby]

Eventually I'd like to do some resawing of binding. How strong should the motor be? I'd rather get more then I need and grow into it.

[jordangatenby]

Would the Rikon 10-321 work?

[Ned Milburn]

I first bought a 2-piece frame bandsaw with a riser. It was not aligned well at all (the joints between frames), and even after proper alignment does not perform well for resawing, and so I ended up buying another machine (one piece frame) after a year and a half.

I'd recommend at least a 14" wheel size. Larger wheel sizes allow for wider blades. It is tough to find carbide tip blades that fit a 14" wheel.

Also, I'd recommend you look at one piece frame (sometimes called European frame) of General, General International, Grizzly, or other. Some of the Grizzly tools have some really nice looking fences, and a few models have interesting blade adjusters.

Also, check if you can use 220V or only 120V power. This will affect your final choice.

[B. Howard]

That Rikon is plenty for building guitars as long as you are not planning to saw your own backs, sides and tops.

[charles Tauber]

For 30 years, I used a Rockwell 14" bandsaw. I added a 6" riser block that allowed cutting up to about 14" in depth. The riser was okay, but didn't cut as well with it in due to flex in the structure. It has a 3/4 HP motor that was adequate for most needs, but very slow for resawing backs and sides. It'll take up to a 3/4" blade. It'll cut 4" thick material, no problem, though it slows down on very hard woods (ebony, rosewood, etc.) that are that thick. Comparable band saws now retail around the $600 range.

Recently, I got tired of its quirks and purchased a Laguna 14/12 bandsaw. It's a thing of beauty. 110 V, 1-3/4 HP motor. Spent the big bucks and bought a 3/4" carbide-tipped resaw blade. It leaves a remarkable finish on the resawn surface. It'll cut about as fast as you can push the material. Wonderful saw, list price $1100 plus wheels. (I don't recommend the light - I keep hitting my head on it and it doesn't have the range of motion to really put the light where I want it.) One potential downside is that it takes an uncommon length blade. You can buy blades made specifically for it, or you can have them welded/brazed to that length from many blade suppliers. http://www.lagunatools.com/bandsaws/1412-Bandsaw

So, it really depends upon your budget and what you want to be able to do with it, and how often. A relatively inexpensive bandsaw is sufficient for most guitar making needs, short, as others have said, of doing extensive resawing of 8"-plus very hard woods.

In this day and age, I would insist on it having integral dust collection. As Ned stated, a European style one-piece frame is a more rigid design. General is gone; now only General International. They've been asleep at the wheel for decades, but for their recent activity in CNC machines. In my opinion, there are better, better featured machines out there than General/General International.

[jordangatenby]

Thanks for all the great info. I'm trying to make sure I buy the right one and won't need to upgrade in a year.

Anyone heard of Steel City saws? I'm looking at model 50114. Any thoughts on this?

[tadol]

There are a couple good books specifically on bandsaws, and it's worth the read if you aren't really familiar with them. I'm a big believer in getting older, used machines and putting some time into repairing and fine-tuning them. Sometimes it takes some hunting, but you can usually find a great tool for a very fair price. Lots of older Delta/Rockwell 14" saws around, and at least one company (Iturra Design - google to find a link to their datalog, they don't do the web) offers all kinds of parts and upgrade accessories. I only mention it because bandsaws, unlike other shop machines, always seem to benefit from tweaking and finessing their set-up, so its worth getting to know your saw thoroughly -

[charles Tauber]

I have a Steel City jointer with which I'm very happy. Good quality machine.

However, the 5140 listed on their website - I don't see a model 50114 - states that it has a resaw capacity of 6". I'd find that too limiting. Sometimes one cuts stuff that isn't a full 6" deep, but requires holding things at an angle or on a fixture that would eat into the 6" capacity.

The granite tables are interesting, as they are on their other machines, but there are circumstances where attaching things magnetically is very helpful. Obviously, that doesn't work with granite surfaces.

You might find this interesting regarding Steel City: http://www.popularwoodworking.com/wo...&rid=244421230

The Delta/Rockwell - or Rockwell or Delta - are adequate machines. Just depends on what you want and how much you want to spend.

[Howard Klepper]

Jordan, there is a longstanding rule-of-thumb for buying machinery.

First you figure out the machine that is capable of doing everything you can imagine needing it for. Then you go up at least one step from that in both size and power.

[jordangatenby]

I've done it! I bought a Rikon 10-325 model. Looking forward to it's arrival. I just have to make room for it.

[WaddyT]

You'll be plenty happy with that little saw. I have the Craftsman version of it, and it works great. The only disadvantage of a 10" saw is that blades break more often due to the tight curve of the wheels. Consider blades to be disposable items. Keep plenty on hand, and if you can find someone in your area that can re-weld them, use their service. The blades I use the most are 1//4" 10 tooth per inch, and bi-metal 1/4" 10 - 14 tooth/inch and 1/4" 14 - 18 tooth/inch blades. The bi-metal blades have a bit wider kerf, but cut quite cleanly in thinner stock like glued up purflings and such. Learn to listen to the "telltale" click, click, click of a blade that is about to break. The first time it'll scare you to death - big BANG, then silence! Then go clean yourself up and go back and change the blade.

That saw handles nearly everything I've ever needed in a band saw. About the only thing it can't handle is re-sawing backs. I have even re-sawed sides on mine. It's slow, but works fine. Also, one thing to think about is getting one of the Carter RK1 single bearing blade guide for it. It'll be the best $80 you have ever spent. Since I put one of those guides on my saw, I have never taken it off. Cuts blade changes to a few minutes with no re-setting bearing guides. It will allow you to cut tight curves without issue, and will even allow nearly perfect re-sawing up to about 4 1/2". I can take a 1 mm slice off of a piece of hardwood and it will be within 0.1 mm thickness. The beauty of this little guide is that all other guides are removed from use, so you only have to make the minor adjustment to the one unit, and it takes only a couple of seconds to set.