#16
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Heat lamp is my tool for this job.
Tom
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A person who has never made a mistake has never made anything |
#17
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Quote:
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Warren My website: http://draudio56.wix.com/warren-bendler "It's hard...calming the Beatle inside of me." |
#18
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I think a bit of steam might help melt the glue.
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Kenny Hand Made Walnut 000 | Hand Made Maple OOO 12 | '94 915-M | '96 810 | '98 W65 | '00 314-K | Yairi DY-58 (9 String) | Sobell Cittern | Moon 'Bazar' (Guitar-Bouzouki) | Freshwater Octave Mandolin | Breedlove Fretless Acoustic Bass | Recording King Squareneck Tricone Reso | Ozark Tenor Banjo | Ozark Tenor Guitar | EKO Ranger XII | Fender Strat | 'Vintage' "The Fool" SG | + some others |
#19
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I had some bamboo flooring left over from my dining room, and I find it works great for cauls, since titebond won't stick to the finish. I don't need to wax, nor do I need wax paper, when using this wood as cauls. (Although I always have wax paper handy for other gluing operations.)
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---- Ned Milburn NSDCC Master Artisan Dartmouth, Nova Scotia |
#20
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I don't. It's not a neck joint so steam won't help. The finish surrounding the bridge will take on a new form of life after the steam has had it's way with it unless you have protected the area really, really, well.
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#21
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You can use a heat lamp to warm up the bridge/soften the glue, just be sure to mask the top with aluminum foil wrapped around a piece of cardboard wih the shape of the bridge cut out from the center.
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#22
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Sorry to bump an old thread, but the discussion of using cauls to clamp bridge has me totally confused... I'm looking at an old, inexpensive classical guitar with the bridge off of it...there are no holes in the top under the bridge. The caul system seems to involve having screws going through the top of the guitar and through the bridge itself, but I have no holes there. In fact, I never heard of acoustic guitars having holes going from above the bridge and through the top of the body. So I'm wondering if I'm just misunderstanding the explanation. Can anyone clear this up? If I can avoid buying new clamps to fix my bridge, I'm all for it.
Ken |
#23
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Obviously, one cannot put screws through the holes in a bridge that does not have bridge pin holes, such as a classical guitar bridge or some pinless steel string guitar designs. However, when using traditional clamping methods, regardless of a pin bridge or painless bridge, one should use clamping cauls, typically one on the inside and one on the outside of the guitar. The interior clamping caul should fit either over or around the bracing on the interior of the guitar. The exterior caul can be stepped and shaped to conform to the contour of the bridge, or not. Used together, the cauls distribute the clamping forces and prevent the clamps from damaging guitar services. Generally, the cauls are used in conjunction with clamps that fit through the sound hole and squeeze the assembly of the cauls, bridge, and top. If one attempts to clamp a pinless bridge to the top using clamps that span the outer surfaces of the top and back one runs the risk of crushing the top or back and splitting them. |
#24
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You will need to build a caul for the inside of the guitar that matches the camber or flatness of the original build of the guitar. If you aren't sure, a slight camber should be fine. (About half to three quarters of a mm center deviance along the length of the bridge.) If you use C-clamps, you can use a system of above-bridge cauls where only 2 clamps are required, but it is easiest in the beginning to try a 3 clamping system - a clamp for the tie-block/saddle holder, then one each for the wings.
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---- Ned Milburn NSDCC Master Artisan Dartmouth, Nova Scotia |