The State of the Bridge Pin Address (and Advice?)

[pjroberts]

Hi Folks,

So tonight was changing up the strings in my GS Mini in prep for some travel and ran into an inevitable problem with these cheapo synthetic replicant pins:

GSM_BrokenPin.jpg

I was removing the strings, and this one wouldn't come out (and I swore at myself for not replacing the pins earlier). D*&# me ! So, got the mini pliers. Crack snackle pop!

It's stuck obviously. It's sort of easy to get to from the sound hole ... but what's the safest way to remove this? I was so excited with my experiment to try my $18 strings on a $400 guitar :-) Something's wrong with that ratio, but am eager to try this.

Now, before everyone goes off on the Taylor bridge pin quality ... let me tell you the second part of my State of the Pin. This is a relatively inexpensive guitar, so plastic pins are expected. These have lasted over two years on this GSM. Now, look at these brand new pins, also plastic, and guess where they came from:

D28A_Pins.jpg

Those are from my new D28 Authentic. Totally contorted. The B string pin would not stay in after the first string change ... never had a pin failure like this before ... until the Mini pin split in two tonight.

So, tonight is Bob Colosi night in Austin.

Any ideas on pulling that Taylor pin? Or what's left of that Taylor pin?

I balance a penny on my forefinger, then reach inside the soundhole and push the pin up. The penny makes it comfy so the pin doesn't poke your finger.

[pjroberts]

Thanks Mark! Will give that a try ... good idea.

[Montesdad]

If you're not as wealthy as Mark, some people have been known to use the cupped side of a shallow spoon to do the same.

[BluesyRob]

Originally Posted by Mark Stone

I balance a penny on my forefinger, then reach inside the soundhole and push the pin up. The penny makes it comfy so the pin doesn't poke your finger.

Originally Posted by Montesdad

If you're not as wealthy as Mark, some people have been known to use the cupped side of a shallow spoon to do the same.

I use a quarter because it's thicker. I guess I'm rich!

[Knollhaven]

I'd push the string downward first, loosening its grip on the bridge. This should help with the spoon/penny/quarter system.

[hatchettjack]

Sewing thimble would work best!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[JBCROTTY]

I had the same issue on my GS Mini after I bought it used during the first string change. 4 of the 6 pins broke exactly as you experienced. I just used a small screw and gently screwed it into the top of the broken pins until it was secure enough to assist me in pulling the pins out.

Plastic pins are plastic pins - they weaken over time either from being removed or from string tension. I use ebony bridge pins now - they look great and resist the same failure points that seem to stress the plastics. Ebony pins are typically not as long, but that has not appeared to affect their function.

[muscmp]

once you get it out, you may want to do a bridgeslotomy and, either use unslotted pins or twist the slotted ones sideways.

play music!

[Greg Maxwell]

Most of the time when pins won't come out it's because the bridge pin hole hasn't been slotted correctly for the string diameter. It only takes a couple of minutes to correct this with the right tools, and then the pins will pull out nicely. Pushing down on the strings helps if they are binding. To remove a tight pin, use a pair of side cutters such as would be used to cut the new string ends off, and using the saddle as a fulcrum lever out the stuck pin. If done correctly there will be no damage to the saddle or the pin.

[semolinapilcher]

The plastic bridge pins on my 52-yr-old Texan are bent totally out of shape. They look like old molars.

The ebony pins on my Taylor and Collings are great.

[murrmac123]

Originally Posted by Greg Maxwell

Most of the time when pins won't come out it's because the bridge pin hole hasn't been slotted correctly for the string diameter..

Most bridge pin holes aren't slotted, period.

The reason the pins stick is because the holes haven't been reamed to the taper of the pin.

The ideal is to have the holes reamed correctly and to have the bridge slotted.

[Greg Maxwell]

Originally Posted by murrmac123

Most bridge pin holes aren't slotted, period.

This simply isn't true. I mostly see unslotted holes on cheap imports and entry-level models from major brands.

Originally Posted by murrmac123

The reason the pins stick is because the holes haven't been reamed to the taper of the pin.

The ideal is to have the holes reamed correctly and to have the bridge slotted.

Of course both need to be addressed. But correctly reamed holes without slots will cause pins to bind, especially the bass E and A pins.

[pjroberts]

Thanks for all the suggestions ... going to apply the advice tonight. The plastic pins are slotted, but I think I'm replacing them with unslotted bone from Bob Colosi, he came back fast with a recommendation for both guitars. I'm curious what ebony does differently than bone. I've typically used bone, but like everything in the world with an internet forum, I'm finding I know a lot less than I though I did.

Anyone had recent experience with bad Martin pins? On the Martin forum there is quite a bit of discussion about replacing the D28A and OM-18A pins (rightfully so, amazing a flagship product comes with sub-par pins). However, the common wisdom seems to be that's because the original guitar pins were plastic:-). Meanwhile, my modern standard Martin pins, like my D18 (2014) has no pin issues.

I will report back on the Mini, though I'm not sure i have a spare pin that will fit.

[murrmac123]

Originally Posted by Greg Maxwell

This simply isn't true. I mostly see unslotted holes on cheap imports and entry-level models from major brands.

When I say "most" , then, by definition, i mean more than 50% of guitars in the world today, be they cheap, import, high end, low end, whatever.

I would bet the farm that less than 50% of all the guitars manufactured today have slotted bridgepin holes. Knock the zero off and it probably still holds true.