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  #1  
Old 02-05-2015, 06:09 PM
Tygrys Tygrys is offline
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Default how to separate rosewood fingerboard from the neck?

As is in the title how to separate rosewood fingerboard from the neck i that way that bought will not be broken?
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  #2  
Old 02-05-2015, 10:31 PM
John Arnold John Arnold is offline
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I heat it with a heatlamp, and work a thin spatula underneath. I protect the finish on the top and the peghead with white cardboard.
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Old 02-06-2015, 12:25 AM
Tygrys Tygrys is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John Arnold View Post
I heat it with a heatlamp, and work a thin spatula underneath. I protect the finish on the top and the peghead with white cardboard.

Thank you.
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Old 02-06-2015, 07:40 AM
Archer72 Archer72 is offline
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I've removed a couple with a heat gun and they came off fine. But they are bent like a potato chip after they come off and I don't know that it's possible to reuse the same board again, if that's what you're trying to do. Not sure the bottom of a curved up fb could be cleaned enough to reglue even if it would hold to the neck once the glue is dried. But other might have more experience in this area than myself.
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Old 02-06-2015, 08:13 AM
Tygrys Tygrys is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John Arnold View Post
I heat it with a heatlamp, and work a thin spatula underneath. I protect the finish on the top and the peghead with white cardboard.
Do you think if i will use carefully heatgun will it di the same. And i will be able to seperate it
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  #6  
Old 02-06-2015, 08:15 AM
Tygrys Tygrys is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Archer72 View Post
I've removed a couple with a heat gun and they came off fine. But they are bent like a potato chip after they come off and I don't know that it's possible to reuse the same board again, if that's what you're trying to do. Not sure the bottom of a curved up fb could be cleaned enough to reglue even if it would hold to the neck once the glue is dried. But other might have more experience in this area than myself.
As long the neck will be strate is all fine for me.

Thank you
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Old 02-06-2015, 09:23 AM
redir redir is offline
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Either one will work. I use a heat lamp too. They are cheap.
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Old 02-06-2015, 10:06 AM
Frank Ford Frank Ford is offline
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Whatever you read, whatever you do, please don't make the mistake of thinking that fingerboard removal is either "easy" or risk-free. It's entirely possible to make a mess of things.

That said, if you're prepared to take responsibility for what happens, it can be a relatively painless process, although it depends a great deal on how the instrument was originally made and the care with which you work. Some use heat lamps, some heat guns, others use heat blankets or other means.

As always, it's not the tools, but the hands and eyes. . .
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Old 02-06-2015, 12:12 PM
charles Tauber charles Tauber is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Frank Ford View Post
Some use heat lamps, some heat guns, others use heat blankets or other means.
I use an old clothes iron.

Quote:
As always, it's not the tools, but the hands and eyes. . .
Very true.
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  #10  
Old 02-06-2015, 02:02 PM
redir redir is offline
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BTW re-installation is another thing. I found that those little plastic band clamps that you can get at Stew Mac work well for aligning the fretboard for clamping.
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  #11  
Old 02-06-2015, 04:38 PM
Tygrys Tygrys is offline
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Thank you as some of you know im planing to make CF guitar and to make mold i need to remove finger board but as all of you mentioned it is not as easy as i though i will just sand it.

Thank you for help.
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Old 02-06-2015, 04:53 PM
charles Tauber charles Tauber is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tygrys View Post
Thank you as some of you know im planing to make CF guitar and to make mold i need to remove finger board but as all of you mentioned it is not as easy as i though i will just sand it.
Removing the fingerboard to obtain the neck by itself will be much easier than trying to sand away 3/16" to 1/4" of fingerboard. If I understand you correctly, you want to make a mold of the neck without the fingerboard.
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  #13  
Old 02-07-2015, 05:00 PM
Tygrys Tygrys is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by charles Tauber View Post
Removing the fingerboard to obtain the neck by itself will be much easier than trying to sand away 3/16" to 1/4" of fingerboard. If I understand you correctly, you want to make a mold of the neck without the fingerboard.
Yes it would be easer to get neck with out fingerboard but i have cheap guitar (0.99) and allready changed neck profile from some version of bely done hyrid D cpose to head and V form other side. Now it is nice C nek with is confortable for me to play on whole lenght.

Yes im doing one mold for gouitar body with neck and head with out fingerboard seperate mold for fingerboard another one for top another one for bracing (much later as first i will do overbraced fast mold then tune top and then do proper mold for bracing) another Ones for: bridge bridge; sadle; nut; strap buttons buttons; and what ever i would need.

As i mentioned in other post this will be long process as im doing it in spare time and im not.in rush.

Alltrue i started working on neck but my next step will be to draw 2D plans in adobe ilustrator and hopefully till end of February.
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  #14  
Old 02-07-2015, 06:17 PM
repete repete is offline
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I guess I'm lucky and have a neck heater.

BEFORE removal, remove a fret from near the top and another just before the neck meets the body. Get some small finishing brads the size of the fret slot and drill two holes through the fingerboard the same size or slightly smaller than the brad. Use these to realign the neck when you re-glue. It also prevents misalignment when clamping.

I found a REALLY nice thin spatula at an art store. Be careful you can easily bend them, but they are flexible and straighten out nice. I took off a uke fingerboard last week that is still straight after removal.

-r
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  #15  
Old 02-08-2015, 12:38 AM
Tygrys Tygrys is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by repete View Post
I guess I'm lucky and have a neck heater.

BEFORE removal, remove a fret from near the top and another just before the neck meets the body. Get some small finishing brads the size of the fret slot and drill two holes through the fingerboard the same size or slightly smaller than the brad. Use these to realign the neck when you re-glue. It also prevents misalignment when clamping.

I found a REALLY nice thin spatula at an art store. Be careful you can easily bend them, but they are flexible and straighten out nice. I took off a uke fingerboard last week that is still straight after removal.

-r

I will do thank you
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