#16
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I heat the frets with a soldering iron. I place the iron on the fret, and wait for the first little wisp of smoke (30 seconds, maybe). The fret will pull right out with no chipping.
My problem with using acetone is that it will attack lacquer if it happens to run off the edge of the fingerboard and onto the neck finish. Fortunately, it's not an issue with most Asian guitars and some domestic guitars like Taylor, since they have a catalyzed polyester finish that is impervious to acetone. |
#17
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Excellent point about the acetone......!! My slow brain is fixated on building which is what I do, with very little repair work. Hope I have not lead anyone into a nasty mess with finish.
Tom
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A person who has never made a mistake has never made anything |
#18
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I always clean my fretboards with a single-edge razor blade using a cabinet scraper method. They come out flawless.
I fill any "divots" with matched sawdust (ebony or rosewwood etc) and thin CA. The CA always leaves a messy excess. It scraps right off and leaves an invisible repair. CA will scrape off invisibly. I am an advocate for oiling fretboards and for using CA and for scraping. Put all that together and I am with Howard - never oil before CA. The oil could interfere with the glue and is unnecessary.
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Fazool "The wand chooses the wizard, Mr. Potter" Taylor GC7, GA3-12, SB2-C, SB2-Cp...... Ibanez AVC-11MHx , AC-240 |