Strap button location advice

[rmsstrider]

I am going to add a strap pin to my 25 Year old martin with dovetail joint. I don't like strap attached to the headstock and I could use some advise on location. Stew mac has diagram showing 5 possibilities. I have made the decision to add this strap button. Already have the endpin. I have read debates on if this modification changes the value or not. I just need advise on placement please.

[fazool]

I am a steadfast advocate for the "Taylor location". The reason is the mechanics of it - by putting the button there, the weight of the guitar pulls the strap tighter so the weight helps clinch the strap and secure it.

The absolute worst and opposite location the the "Les Paul location" where the weight of the guitar works to pull the strap OFF the button.

[jim1960]

For anyone that wants to see the StewMac page you referenced, it's here.

That said, I prefer position #5. #3 or #4 would be my second choice and it's fine until your strap end starts to wear and the stretches a bit. I've had straps slip off. #5 is, imo, the safest in terms of limiting the possibility that a strap will slip off the button.

I don't like positions 1 or 2 at all. I'd always be worrying about cracking the guitar with the button sticking out on the back like that.

[kydave]

Originally Posted by rmsstrider

I am going to add a strap pin to my 25 Year old martin with dovetail joint. I don't like strap attached to the headstock and I could use some advise on location. Stew mac has diagram showing 5 possibilities. I have made the decision to add this strap button. Already have the endpin. I have read debates on if this modification changes the value or not. I just need advise on placement please.

A picture is worth 1000 words!





I put the second photo to show where the original owner had placed the pin too close to the fingerboard (I filled the hole) and I removed and re-installed.

This is where all my Martins get a strap button. I cut a leather washer to go underneath, although felt is fine, too.

[rmsstrider]

Originally Posted by jim1960

For anyone that wants to see the StewMac page you referenced, it's here.

That said, I prefer position #5. #3 or #4 would be my second choice and it's fine until your strap end starts to wear and the stretches a bit. I've had straps slip off. #5 is, imo, the safest in terms of limiting the possibility that a strap will slip off the button.

I don't like positions 1 or 2 at all. I'd always be worrying about cracking the guitar with the button sticking out on the back like that.

Thank you for posting the Stew mac link.I did not know how to do that. I am inclined to go with position 5.

[DESERTRAT1]

For those who own guitars with the strap button at position #3 it's a good idea to check and make sure that the builder actually installed a backing block. Gibson didn't bother on this one and eventually the screw hole stripped and the button fell out. Fortunately I discovered the problem and moved it before the guitar took a neck dive to the floor.

[Guilty Spark]

Position 5.
There is a nice Martin Shop Youtube video that demonstrates the install. Very short, concise, easy to do.
I followed it and installed a strap button in that location on my Yamaha 12.

[TBman]

I'm told you have to drill a pilot hole, how large and deep I'm sure is dependent on the size of the strap button business end. I want to put one in the neck heel of my resonator, but chickened out.

[Long Jon]

Originally Posted by kydave

This is where all my Martins get a strap button. I cut a leather washer to go underneath, although felt is fine, too.

Yes Dave, but would you do that to a valuable guitar ? ( <-- In case anyone thinks I've gone crazy).

I do quite like #3 , what I might call the Strat position, but I realise it would be heresy on a Martin, anyway, all my guitars have already been #5ed.

[kydave]

Originally Posted by TBman

I'm told you have to drill a pilot hole, how large and deep I'm sure is dependent on the size of the strap button business end. I want to put one in the neck heel of my resonator, but chickened out.

The pilot hole is totally dependent on the diameter and exposed length of the strap button screw, not the strap button itself.

I put a piece of masking tape in the approximate spot, do any measuring needed (although at this point in my career I just eyeball the spot); mark an X; centerpunch & drill.

Bear in mind you're drilling into a compound curve, and drill toward what would be the center of that compound radius.

I also keep a dedicated drill bit the size for those screws, with a piece of tape on it marking the depth to which it will drill. They are all pretty close to the same size, and I only use one brand/style these days so it works fine & makes for a two minute job to add a heel strap button for myself or a friend.



P.S. You didn't ask, but my recommendation for a strap button (and all I use anymore) is the Planet Waves black coated brass button.

Originally Posted by Long Jon

Yes Dave, but would you do that to a valuable guitar ? ( <-- In case anyone thinks I've gone crazy).

I would, and have, and will udoubtedly do again, including prewar Martins, every decade from the 1930's until present.

[Lacks Focus]

One other think to keep in mind - standard twist bits have a tendency to wander, even on a flat surface, let alone the compound curve of a neck heel.

kydave's suggestion of a centerpunch helps prevent that, but what works best for me is a brad-point bit.

[Long Jon]

Originally Posted by Todd Yates

I would, and have, and will udoubtedly do again, including prewar Martins, every decade from the 1930's until present.

Todd, I did put a "" to indicate rib ticklin' fun !
I am tempted to make a joke now about it being OK for you putting buttons on those old Martins, but some of us have new ones ...

but I wont

[rmsstrider]

Originally Posted by kydave

The pilot hole is totally dependent on the diameter and exposed length of the strap button screw, not the strap button itself.

I put a piece of masking tape in the approximate spot, do any measuring needed (although at this point in my career I just eyeball the spot); mark an X; centerpunch & drill.

Bear in mind you're drilling into a compound curve, and drill toward what would be the center of that compound radius.

I also keep a dedicated drill bit the size for those screws, with a piece of tape on it marking the depth to which it will drill. They are all pretty close to the same size, and I only use one brand/style these days so it works fine & makes for a two minute job to add a heel strap button for myself or a friend.



P.S. You didn't ask, but my recommendation for a strap button (and all I use anymore) is the Planet Waves black coated brass button.

I ordered vintage bone endpin and button from Bob Colosi.to mtch the excellent bridge pins he just sent me.

[jim1960]

Originally Posted by TBman

I'm told you have to drill a pilot hole, how large and deep I'm sure is dependent on the size of the strap button business end. I want to put one in the neck heel of my resonator, but chickened out.

You absolutely want to drill a pilot hole so you don't crack the wood. You want your drill bit to be near as wide as the shaft of the screw without the threads.