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  #16  
Old 12-29-2015, 07:41 AM
PTC Bernie PTC Bernie is offline
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Default Screw holes

I would STRONGLY recommend that you use a wood glue, like TiteBond or similar instead of an epoxy.

Just a suggestion.......
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  #17  
Old 12-29-2015, 08:54 AM
Lacks Focus Lacks Focus is offline
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I'll second the toothpick trick. It's a time-honored woodworking technique. I also agree it requires no new pilot hole. There's typically enough space left in the existing hole for the screw to start. If not, cut the toothpick short enough so when it's fully seated in the hole it doesn't quite come flush with the surface of the rest of the wood. The nice thing about it is that it's soft enough that it will allow the thread to grab quickly, and large enough that, when glued in place, will give you a secure hold. And yes, use wood glue.
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  #18  
Old 12-29-2015, 08:57 AM
ohYew812 ohYew812 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rodmeister View Post
Should I use this to justify buying a nice new guitar like a Martin D28? Thanks.
Absolutely!

Try the new D-18s too if a more even neck taper, and 1 3/4" nut width is more of a fit.

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  #19  
Old 12-29-2015, 09:03 AM
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ljguitar ljguitar is offline
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Hi rm…

Glue and a toothpick overnight have always worked for me. Just don't be in a hurry for an instant fix.




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  #20  
Old 12-29-2015, 01:15 PM
DanPanther DanPanther is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SMan View Post
I have "unstripped" many with a toothpick and some wood glue.

Good luck.
Simplest way to repair it bar none. Dip the end of a toothpick in wood glue, stick it in the hole, snap it off, and put the screw back in. Thing is the screw itself will grind up the toothpick and fill in the worn grooves by itself.
Of course don't be sloppy with the glue. Just a drop on the end will suffice.

Dan
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