Do I need a neck reset?

[Flatpicker97]

Hey AGF! First time posting.
I’ve got a Martin 000-15M from 2007. It’s been well used before I got it a couple of years ago.
The action is sitting at 2.6mm low e side and 2mm high e side, measured at the 12th fret. The relief is at 0.2mm.
There’s not really any room for lowering the saddle as it’s already really low.
I’m not sure, but I’m assuming it would need a neck reset? I’m surprised at that considering its age. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

[mr. beaumont]

Is the saddle extremely low on the bass and treble side?

[Flatpicker97]

It is yeah. I can’t figure out how to upload some pictures!

[grinningfool]

0.2 mm is a LOT of neck relief.

[Flatpicker97]

I’d say it’s pretty normal? Seems to be around about what most people recommend!
Measured at the seventh fret with 1st and 14th frets fretted

[phavriluk]

How high are the strings from the soundboard at the front of the bridge?

How thick is the bridge?

If the strings are a half-inch above the soundboard, then I've read that's close to a lower limit for string height. If the strings are higher than that half-inch and if the bridge is one of Martin's thicker ones, then the bridge could be thinned to allow more saddle to show and to allow lowering the saddle some if lower action is wanted, and still stay within suggested parameters.

Somebody who both knows setup techniques and Martin build practices could help with a response and keep my comments honest.

[Rudy4]

Originally Posted by Flatpicker97

Hey AGF! First time posting.
I’ve got a Martin 000-15M from 2007. It’s been well used before I got it a couple of years ago.
The action is sitting at 2.6mm low e side and 2mm high e side, measured at the 12th fret. The relief is at 0.2mm.
There’s not really any room for lowering the saddle as it’s already really low.
I’m not sure, but I’m assuming it would need a neck reset? I’m surprised at that considering its age. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Don't be surprised by the need for a reset. My playing buddy purchased a brand new Martin John Renbourn and put a REALLY tall bridge in it to keep the strings from buzzing against the fret board. I tried to get him to return it, but I'm pretty sure I'll see this guitar with the bridge lifted off the soundboard within a few years.

[Flatpicker97]

Thanks for that. I did think thinning the bridge could be an option because there isn’t much belly going on and the neck pitch looks fine!
There’s just shy of an inch from the soundboard to the bottom of the strings by the bridge, so a fair amount to play with it seems

[phavriluk]

An INCH?? A picture of that would be something to see.

[mr. beaumont]

Originally Posted by Flatpicker97

It is yeah. I can’t figure out how to upload some pictures!

I'd take some of the relief out and see where that gets you...

My worry is a twist in that neck...if the saddle is low all the way across that's a big difference between the action on the sixth string and on the first...

[TheGITM]

You should run a long, straight edge across the fingerboard to the bridge and report where it is positioned relative to the bridge. If the end of the straight edge is below the saddle then you likely have an issue with the neck geometry that would need to be addressed. Ideally, the end of the straight edge should be slightly above the bridge.

[Jaxon]

it's a martin

[cliff_the_stiff]

Originally Posted by TheGITM

You should run a long, straight edge across the fingerboard to the bridge and report where it is positioned relative to the bridge. If the end of the straight edge is below the saddle then you likely have an issue with the neck geometry that would need to be addressed. Ideally, the end of the straight edge should be slightly above the bridge.

This is a good place to start. Check the relief with the thrice folded dollar bill. It should pinch an hold three thicknesses, but not 2.
I don’t understand how the strings are almost an inch off the sound board and no saddle. that’s going to be an inch thick bridge.
The drawback to shaving the bridge is the diminished break angle to the pins.
I would convert to solid, not slotted pins, and slot the bridge also while shaving it before I took it in for a reset.
if I got the chance I probably would slot the bridge on all of my guitars that have slotted pins…

[TheGITM]

Also, from what I'm seeing the cost of a neck reset has increased quite a bit in the last few years. While I'm sure there are variables, it's not uncommon to see quote of $500 or more for a reset. If you go that route, and it's a guitar you plan to keep, consider having everything else looked over at the same time. It's a good time to refret and/or replace the nut/saddle if warranted.

Just something to consider.

[Flatpicker97]

Originally Posted by phavriluk

An INCH?? A picture of that would be something to see.

Sorry sorry I’m an idiot… it’s 10mm