EKO 12 string (1967) restoration project - Update

[murrmac123]

Originally Posted by BradHall

The pop rivet looks like an afterthought to me. Was it original to the guitar?

The rivets are original and essential, and will have to be replaced with bolts. ... no way could you replace a 12 string Eko bridge with a glued on version ... disaster waiting to happen ... the top ply would be ripped apart.

Replacing the adjustable saddle might be an option however, although how much improvement in tone you would obtain is a moot point, given that it is a plywood top.

[Karel]

Originally Posted by murrmac123

The rivets are original and essential, and will have to be replaced with bolts. ... no way could you replace a 12 string Eko bridge with a glued on version ... disaster waiting to happen ... the top ply would be ripped apart.

Thank you, murrmac, for pointing at the danger of gluing the bridge on a laminated top. This had not yet occurred to me but I think you are absolutely right. I am really grateful for getting all this advise from you all!

[mb propsom]

I bought one of these used in 1970. Years later (1973) I decided to refinish it. It only took a few passes with a sanding block to discover that it had a thick plastic finish, not nitro.

I suspect that yours has the same finish. Best way to check it is to place a small drop of lacquer thinner onto a spot the back of the peghead that will be covered by the tuners. Either way, if you take the finish off (as Tim McKnight suggested) you'll probably lose the rosette decal.

[tdq]

How is that neck attached? Does it just go on top with a massive neck block and the screws all the way through? Does it not have a heel?
EDIT: Just did some googling. It would appear so! I wouldn't have thought that would hold up to 12 strings of pressure!

[Karel]

Originally Posted by mb propsom

I bought one of these used in 1970. Years later (1973) I decided to refinish it. It only took a few passes with a sanding block to discover that it had a thick plastic finish, not nitro.

I suspect that yours has the same finish. Best way to check it is to place a small drop of lacquer thinner onto a spot the back of the peghead that will be covered by the tuners. Either way, if you take the finish off (as Tim McKnight suggested) you'll probably lose the rosette decal.

That is helpful to know, Michael! Seen the cracks in the finish mine must equally have a really thick layer and probably of the same substance as yours. I will try to spare the rosette, to keep it as original as possible, but if it does not work out I must find a new decal. Did you refinish yours by hand or did you use some sort of spray?

[Karel]

Originally Posted by tdq

How is that neck attached? Does it just go on top with a massive neck block and the screws all the way through? Does it not have a heel?
EDIT: Just did some googling. It would appear so! I wouldn't have thought that would hold up to 12 strings of pressure!

Mine has one masive heel/neck block. The four screws are truly huge! The construction would even hold up to 24 strings...

[Karel]

First rough finger board sanding and fret filing.

[Karel]

I had hoped a crack near the headstock was a crack in the lacquer, but after sanding (more and more) I still see a line... . Yet, everything feels very sturdy.

[Karel]

Before and after a first sanding (hand) job. The crack lines are way less visible but not yet gone. I am a little hesitant to sand any further/deeper.

[tdq]

Originally Posted by Karel

Mine has one masive heel/neck block. The four screws are truly huge! The construction would even hold up to 24 strings...

I recently purchased a cheap 12 string which really, really needed a neck reset, with the intention of doing a bolt on conversion. It was a massive failure (no problems, it was VERY cheap, and I learnt a bunch, basically what I'm no good at...) Perhaps something like that would be easier for a klutz like me. There is an EKO 12 string for sale near me which needs work so perhaps this thread will inspire me. (Although it is outrageously priced at the moment)
Anyway, I'll be watching and good luck with it all!

[Rodger Knox]

By the way, the bridge and fingerboard are probably Brazilian Rosewood, just in case you were planning on replacing the bridge.

[Howard Klepper]

Originally Posted by Rodger Knox

By the way, the bridge and fingerboard are probably Brazilian Rosewood, just in case you were planning on replacing the bridge.

The bridge is wenge.

[Karel]

Originally Posted by Howard Klepper

The bridge is wenge.

Unless Brazilian rosewood was really cheap in the sixties, I tend to agree with Howard. Interesting to note that wenge, or African rosewood as it is sometimes called, is now an endangered species. Whether it was cheap enough at the time for Eko to use it, I don't know.

[Rodger Knox]

Originally Posted by Karel

Unless Brazilian rosewood was really cheap in the sixties

It was really inexpensive, and readily available. It didn't begin to be scarce until about 1970. That's about the time Martin switched from BRW to IRW for their rosewood guitars.

That bridge looks just like a fingerboard I recently acquired that was reported to be BRW, but it could as easily be wenge. I'll have to do a scratch and sniff on that fingerboard when I get home, it should be pretty easy to tell the difference between BRW and wenge. Howard has handled more BRW than I ever will, so his opinion is more probably correct.

[Karel]

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