#16
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I love the elegant simplicity of a pinless bridge. Taylor used to use them and I never understood why they abandoned that.
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Fazool "The wand chooses the wizard, Mr. Potter" Taylor GC7, GA3-12, SB2-C, SB2-Cp...... Ibanez AVC-11MHx , AC-240 |
#17
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Doerr Trinity 12 Fret 00 (Lutz/Maple) Edwinson Zephyr 13 Fret 00 (Adi/Coco) Froggy Bottom H-12 (Adi/EIR) Kostal 12 Fret OMC (German Spruce/Koa) Rainsong APSE 12 Fret (Carbon Fiber) Taylor 812ce-N 12 fret (Sitka/EIR Nylon) |
#18
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To my thinking, the pinless bridge has more straight line stress on it than a bridge with pins that would lead to premature bridge failure. Does this make sense or am I out in left field with my analysis?
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#19
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Power Pins Test
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#20
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Not surprisingly this topic has been raised on the forum before. For example here:
http://www.acousticguitarforum.com/f...d.php?t=179771 Some pros and cons of pinless bridges I hadn't thought of are raised. Edit: a more recent thread with some pictures of the Elliot design pinless bridge: http://www.acousticguitarforum.com/f...=348607&page=3
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Englemann/Hog OM (Carson Crickmore course custom build), Breedlove Premier Concert (R/W), 1977 S Yairi YD303, Yamaha LJ16, Fender Tele Standard, Furch Little Jane (Cedar), Baby Taylor BT1 Last edited by CycleBob; 05-21-2017 at 05:33 PM. |
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I'm not sure which forum it was on, but there were postings a while ago that included stress diagrams of both pinned and pinless bridges. There was some added column stress in the pinned bridge, but otherwise there was no real difference: the pinless bridge did not have higher stress along the back edge, and should not start to peel up sooner. The pins, of course, do help keep body and soul together once the peeling starts, at the cost of more distortion in both the top and the bridge, which makes the repair harder.
If you use the Elliot style of pinless bridge it's even easier to remove and replace the strings than it is on a pinned bridge, without the little parts to lose. |
#22
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I Live In The 21st. Century
Loaded question , there's going to be fur flyin here - that said I don't care what others may think :
Brass Pins work for me on both my Dreads . They sound great I get super compliments on it's sound - big time clear bass - mids & highs - She shimmers and shines . String changing is never an issue like with those nasty pins when on stage and you need to change them fast when you bust one . http://www.acousticguitarforum.com/f...d.php?t=230187 Had them now for over 10 years - check the wear marks . EZ : HR
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It started for me with Twinkle Twinkle Little Star in 54 on a Blues Harp and progressed , then life .....some death ....Evolving as I went like a small rock in a stream rounding out as I went with the flow as I go through the white waters and waterfalls of life . Life has always been interesting to me Last edited by Hurricane Ramon; 05-21-2017 at 05:06 PM. |
#23
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Living in The 21st. Century
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I'm sold on stuff like your power pins even if I have not tried them . The brass pins I have on my Dread came with a JLD Bridge DR. I ordered a year or so after I bought it . I had no issues with my Dread's top that merited the Bridge Dr. I had seen one ( JLD ) put on a bowed topped Takamine Dread the fix was amazing how it brought down the action but more importantly was the sound - it cause a over all improvement in sound quality and volume , that impressed me . I asked a lot of questions that day to the sales rep. who installed those pins and Bridge Dr. He said those pins always always make a louder sounding guitar even with out the Bridge Dr. this was at least 6 years before I had a little miracle happen that allowed me to return to guitar after 36 years of praying for it to happen . When I ( after a year of practicing ) got my new first guitar I put those brass pins on for the sound enhancement and it worked .The Bridge Dr. is there as a preventative measure for bowing cause I use 13'a mediums . If you had a set with one of those designed to fit my Bridge DR. ( one is needed to fasten the Bridge Dr. to the brass pin to work right ) I'd probably get a set . In my pic you can see how beat up those brass pins have become since I put them in over 10 years ago . [IMG][/IMG] My respects to you and your product . EZ : HR
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It started for me with Twinkle Twinkle Little Star in 54 on a Blues Harp and progressed , then life .....some death ....Evolving as I went like a small rock in a stream rounding out as I went with the flow as I go through the white waters and waterfalls of life . Life has always been interesting to me |
#24
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I have a beginner question if I may.
Physics dictates that adding mass to the soundboard means more energy from the strings is required to set it moving. Why does adding brass pins and the like not adversely affect the sound/function of the guitar? (I must say I like the look and practicality of power Pins). |
#25
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Fred |
#26
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The Elliot design is quite brilliant, and looks elegant too. |
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#28
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Tradition maybe.
But I just though of a difference that may be significant. With bridge pins the brass rings at the end of the strings pull perpendicular to the soundboard, setting the soundboard in motion in that direction. With holes in the bridge instead of pins the string pulls parallel to the soundboard, setting the soundboard in motion 90 degrees away from the best direction. I'd guess perpendicular is better because the soundboard vibrating to push air AWAY from the guitar would produce better volume, projection, bass, tone, etc. I gots no links, no proof, no white papers, just one tiny brain reasoning away. Last edited by Tico; 05-21-2017 at 06:57 PM. |
#29
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Truth be told, this is likely the most accurate reason for so many "desired" specs...
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2017 Alvarez Yairi OY70CE - Sugaree c.1966 Regal Sovereign R235 Jumbo - Old Dollar 2009 Martin 000-15 - Brown Bella 1977 Gibson MK-35 - Apollo 2004 Fender American Stratocaster - The Blue Max 2017 Fender Custom American Telecaster - Brown Sugar Think Hippie Thoughts... |
#30
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