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  #1  
Old 08-20-2011, 08:22 AM
lmacmil lmacmil is offline
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Default Would you replace the nut on a cheap guitar?

I've got a Tak EG-series and the string spacing seems tight compared to my Gibson Gospel reissue. The Tak string spacing at the nut is 1/8" narrower than the Gibson even though the nuts are only 1/16" different. It's been suggested that I could get a new nut made and widen the string spacing slightly.

So the question, aimed primarily at those with modification/repair experience, does it make sense to spend $50-75 (I'm guessing at the price) for a new nut on a $300 (what I paid for it) guitar? Other than the string spacing, I am happy with the guitar overall, given what I paid for it.

Thanks. Tak nut is first picture, Gibson nut the 2nd. To my untrained eye, it looks like there a lot more space between the E strings and the edge of the nut on the Tak.




Last edited by lmacmil; 08-20-2011 at 01:00 PM.
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Old 08-20-2011, 10:46 AM
charles Tauber charles Tauber is offline
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The question, of course, is what would it cost you to replace it with a guitar that you like equally well that has the string spacing you like? If that is more than 50-$75, and you're willing to pay the 50-$75 to get what you want, you have your answer.
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Old 08-20-2011, 11:05 AM
dekutree64 dekutree64 is offline
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Do it yourself. Nuts are pretty easy to make. See if your guitar shop will sell you a nut blank for $5 or so, or you can make it out of ebony or Corian or whatever hard material. Sand it to the same shape as the original nut, and then slot it with a needle file (twist back and forth while filing to widen the slots for the fatter strings).

Above all, make sure you don't sand it too short or the slots too deep, to where the strings rattle (or make full contact with) the first fret. Hold down a string at the first fret, and look at the tiny space between the bottom of the string and the top of the second fret. That's about what you're going for between the string and the first fret. Creep up on it.
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Old 08-20-2011, 11:30 AM
Wolf Wolf is offline
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With a bone saddle it will absolutely sound better.
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Old 08-20-2011, 12:30 PM
murrmac123 murrmac123 is offline
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I would definitely second the advice given above to do it yourself.

At worst, you can always re-install the original nut.

Nut replacement is very far removed from rocket surgery, and there is no reason whatsoever why anybody who is endowed with opposable thumbs cannot achieve a totally professional result, as long as they take their time and as long as they know what they are doing before they embark on the project.
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Old 08-20-2011, 12:35 PM
Misty44 Misty44 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lmacmil View Post
It's been suggested that I could get a new nut made and widen the string spacing slightly.
If you widen the string spacing at the nut, the low and high E's will be closer to the edge of the fingerboard, making them easier to push/pull off entirely as you play.

Norman Blake did this to his guitars, it helped him thumb-wrap easier, but he also adjusted the bridge:

"I have a peculiar way of set up. I set up all of my guitars so that the bass string is moved to the very edge of the fingerboard and the action of that string is as low as it can go. This is not usually done but I like to wrap my thumb and I need the string to be closer to the edge. But I also change the bridge too. Otherwise, the string will fall off the board when I capo since I use open tunings and I use capo often. So the nut adjustment works most of times but sometimes I have to adjust the bridge and the saddle."

I know several people who have widened the bridge pin hole separations, which has a similar effect, but only up the neck.

Quote:
So the question, does it make sense to spend $50-75 (I'm guessing at the price) for a new nut on a $300 (what I paid for it) guitar?
If it's difficult for you to play and you like the instrument, than yes, it makes sense: it's cheaper than replacing it with one with a wider nut.

But I would try to determine how close to the edge the strings will be if you put on a new nut with wider spacing before proceeding.

As for doing it yourself, while it is a relatively straight forward procedure, it can be problematic (e.g. chipping the binding) if you don't have the know-how and right tools. And some experience helps too.

Mr. F. Ford elaboates: http://www.frets.com/FRETSPages/Luth...t/newnut1.html

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Old 08-20-2011, 01:01 PM
lmacmil lmacmil is offline
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Added pictures to original post.
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Old 08-21-2011, 04:03 PM
badbazil badbazil is offline
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Go for it. If you want to replace it.
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Old 08-22-2011, 04:29 AM
srderby srderby is offline
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I agree that this is an inexpensive DIY project. For the money and time involved it is surely worth a try. I think you'll notice a difference. Good luck!
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  #10  
Old 08-22-2011, 09:10 AM
lmacmil lmacmil is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dekutree64 View Post
Nuts are pretty easy to make...Sand it to the same shape as the original nut, and then slot it with a needle file (twist back and forth while filing to widen the slots for the fatter strings).
What's a needle file? Just a very thin file with teeth on the edge?
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Old 08-22-2011, 11:53 AM
murrmac123 murrmac123 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lmacmil View Post
What's a needle file? Just a very thin file with teeth on the edge?
Needle files are just miniature versions of their larger sized brethren, and they come in the same shapes and profiles, although much shorter.

For the purpose described above, if you did decide to use a needle file , you would use a round needle file.

There are better options available, but at a pinch, a round needle file would do the job.
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Old 08-22-2011, 01:07 PM
lmacmil lmacmil is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by murrmac123 View Post
For the purpose described above, if you did decide to use a needle file , you would use a round needle file.

There are better options available, but at a pinch, a round needle file would do the job.
I'm guessing the better options would cost as much as having the job done by a pro.
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  #13  
Old 08-22-2011, 02:57 PM
charles Tauber charles Tauber is offline
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A set of hobby needle files will run $7 - $20, based on a quick goolge search of "needle files". I recommend using a "tear drop" shape, rather than round/rat tail. I used that for years before specialized/calibrated nut slotting files were available.

This set is from Sears. You don't need anything special, most any hobby shop will have a set. Picture aint great, but looks like the 2nd from the right is the tear drop.

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  #14  
Old 08-22-2011, 03:19 PM
stanron stanron is offline
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I suspect that some of you will disapprove of this but in the past I have done a serviceable job of nut adjustment using a junior hacksaw blade. You can take the set off the blade using an oil stone to get the thinner slots and get the wider slots by cutting at an angle.
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  #15  
Old 08-22-2011, 05:23 PM
charles Tauber charles Tauber is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stanron View Post
I suspect that some of you will disapprove of this but in the past I have done a serviceable job of nut adjustment using a junior hacksaw blade. You can take the set off the blade using an oil stone to get the thinner slots and get the wider slots by cutting at an angle.
Ah, yes. I still use an X-acto knife handle and saw blade for strings 1 and 2.
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