#16
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Truly amazing looking fingerboard. I can barely imagine what the rest of the guitar is going to look like.
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(insert famous quote here) |
#17
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Really lovely work. My question Sir is this--Is there any difference in the Ebony and what your wood "Inlay" is, and will they perhaps have a tendency in time, move, separately due to glue creep or humidity. Also, are they similar in weight? Hardness?
Last edited by skinnerb; 08-12-2016 at 04:33 PM. Reason: Grammer |
#18
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Ryosuke Kobayashi Build Thread
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I learn lots of things from this forum as well. Thank you so much Rodgers-San |
#19
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Oh, can you? Maybe you can give me a bit of the idea to me |
#20
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Ryosuke Kobayashi Build Thread
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"Is there any difference in the Ebony?" -Yes, there is. "what your wood 'Inlay' is"? -It's figured "Yanase Cedar" in Japan. It's not burl wood even it looks like it. It's way denser and heavier than common cedar wood. This individual is about the same density as sapele. This one unique cedar grows only in a part in Japan. And my mother grew there. That's the reason why I decided to make this "Yanase Cedar Project." "will they perhaps have a tendency in time, move, separately due to glue creep or humidity"? -I don't think so. It's not like glueing plastic and wood. As long as we use proper adhesive and do proper job on each glueing surfaces, glued pieces of wood is more durable and last longer than solid wood. I used low viscosity epoxy, CA, and Titebond3 this time. "are they similar in weight? Hardness"? -This fingerboard is a bit lighter than solid ebony fingerboard. I weighed this one and some of ebony ones. This crazy fingerboard is about 93% of average ebony fingerboard in weight. The hardness is about the same as ebony since where the fret tangs will be in is ebony and inlay wood sit nice and tight. Weight : 182.3g(≒6.4~6.5oz) Thickness : 7.1mm(≒3/10inches) Ryo Last edited by Ryo Kobayashi; 02-09-2017 at 12:58 AM. Reason: The photos are gone |
#21
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Beautiful work!!!
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#22
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Thanks for the walk through, someday I'd like to make one like that, very cool stuff.
What kind of glue are you using? epoxy? I assume the thin white strip would warp with any water based glue? or?
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http://www.jessupegoldastini.com/ |
#23
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That fretboard is amazing!!!! I know you said you started with the fretboard on this guitar, but do you know what woods you will be using on the rest of the guitar?
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PS. I love guitars! |
#24
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#25
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Dear Ryo--One of the most beautiful fingerboards ever. And that Yanase Cedar has tremendous warmth and depth to it. Question: I have always assumed that the fretboard adds significantly to the stiffness of the neck. Is there any issue with the individual wood block inlays leading to less stiffness? Beautiful work! --Richard
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#26
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Ryosuke Kobayashi Build Thread
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I've been in guitar making world for only 10 years yet. I'll try to keep elevating my knowledge and skills. |
#27
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Ryosuke Kobayashi Build Thread
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Thank you very much for your kind words Richard-San. Answer : I would say "No." As I mentioned above, glued pieces of wood is more durable and last longer than solid wood as long as we do good job (like fitting nicely, good glueing surfaces, proper glue for each glueing.) In addition to that one of the most important things which give the fingerboard stiffness is how tight frets' tangs are to the fret slots. If we use loose frets and set them with glue, the fingerboard gets way less stiffer. If we use nice and tight frets to the slots, the fingerboard gets way more stiffer. These are 9 kinds of fret wires I have for fretting. 7 of them have the same crown dimensions and different tang width. 2 of them are different material, have different crown dimensions ,and have different tang width again. So all of 9 kinds of the fret wires have different fret tang width. These are quite handy for re-ftetting jobs because different guitars have different width of the fret slots. (like made in different factory, made in different year, made by different material, how the slots are worn after years etc...) I mean I can control the stiffness of the fingerboard quite a lot. I use this method for vintage guitars which have no truss rod. I can control the neck relief by fretting! As long as the individual wood block inlays fits nicely, are glued nicely, other purfling strip and bindings are glued nicely, and I use proper frets which have proper tang width, there is no issue in the stiffness of the fingerboard. Ryo Last edited by Ryo Kobayashi; 02-09-2017 at 12:58 AM. Reason: The photos are gone |
#28
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Ryosuke Kobayashi Build Thread
By the way I apologize for my poor English.
But I'll try to explain what I'm asked as much as I can. Thank you guys. Ryo |
#29
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Dear Ryo--Thank you for such a thoughtful and thorough explanation. And your English is excellent. Thanks again, and looking forward to seeing this one continue! All the best, Richard.
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#30
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Ryosuke Kobayashi Build Thread
I resawed Yanase Cedar board for the back.
And jointed. I add b/w/b/Maccasar Ebony/b/w/b between each joints. I decided to laminate the back because of the reasons following. (1)This highly figured Yanase Cedar is very oily(oilier than even cocobolo) and it might cause glueing problems after years(back braces and linings.) (2)The grains go crazy and it is not structurally integrated. I sanded down to 1.5mm(≒0.06"). And I made a bookbatched Alaskan Yellow cedar board for the inner layer. The thickness is 1.2mm(≒0.047"). I used low viscosity epoxy for the lamination. The thickness of the back after lamination is 2.75mm(≒0.108"). (Which means the thickness of the epoxy layer is about 0.05mm≒0.002") Done! This is the interior (after glueing the center seam and before glueing the braces.) I dindn't quite need to put a center seam since the joints of the inner and the outer layer aren't aligned but I did for easier locating of back braces. Last edited by Ryo Kobayashi; 02-09-2017 at 01:00 AM. Reason: The photos are gone |