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  #1  
Old 07-17-2015, 08:42 AM
nugget68 nugget68 is offline
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Default Titebond or Hide glue

I am going to try to fix our church guitar after it was dropped... the back is a little separated and is a little busted where it impacted... it a Sigma SD18, so it's not really economically feasible to pay someone $200 to fix a $350 guitar... what is the best glue for this repair?


Thanks in advance,
Ryan
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  #2  
Old 07-17-2015, 10:00 AM
redir redir is offline
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Is the wood actually cracked or is it just the finish? You will have to reach inside and push on it to see if it pops out. Might be able to detect movement from the outside too. In any case Titebond for you would be the best glue of choice. If that is cracked then it's probably right along the edge of the linings which will not be possible to cleat from the inside so you would want to get the glue in there really good, pop everything into place and just leave it, assuming that there is no missing wood or large gap in the crack but by the pics it doesn't look as such. In fact by the pics it's hard to tell if the wood is actually cracked so test it to see if you see actual movement.

If not then I'd just leave it the way it is.
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Old 07-17-2015, 05:35 PM
nugget68 nugget68 is offline
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the back is loose, it moves up...as far as the wood being cracked it's hard to tell, I guess I need to go ahead and sand that clear off to see... I've found a couple different versions of titebond, which one would you recommend?
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Old 07-17-2015, 06:05 PM
Ned Milburn Ned Milburn is offline
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Super thin CA might be the right choice for this one, but it'll require some SKILLED scraping and finish sanding, levelling, buffing once done.
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Old 07-17-2015, 08:00 PM
mirwa mirwa is offline
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I would not use hide glue on this unless you are comfortable using hide glue.

Titebond and clamps are fine, I would also follow up with a cleat over the deformed section just forward of the back where it looks like multiple fractures are running from.

The finish is an entirely different story, as mentioned it takes skill to repair a patch like that and make it invisible

So maybe not stress about the cosmetics and just make it structural

Steve
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Old 07-19-2015, 07:02 AM
nugget68 nugget68 is offline
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thanks guys, I've never used CA glue or Hide glue, so I will go with the titebond... as far as the finish, I want it to look good, but I'm not hung up on it being perfect as kick as I want it to be structurally sound. it won't matter too much since it's on the back anyway...
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Old 07-20-2015, 09:47 AM
redir redir is offline
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Oh ok I think I see it now, it cracked away from the linings and bindings. Titebond will work just fine there and be easy to clean up. As mentioned the finish is another story.

Keep in mind you are not really gluing the back to the binding but the kerfed linings o the inside, look it up if you do not know what I mean. You want to get the glue under the back and on the linings.
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Old 07-20-2015, 10:21 AM
Ned Milburn Ned Milburn is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nugget68 View Post
thanks guys, I've never used CA glue or Hide glue, so I will go with the titebond... as far as the finish, I want it to look good, but I'm not hung up on it being perfect as kick as I want it to be structurally sound. it won't matter too much since it's on the back anyway...
Titebond is a good choice when there is enough ability to massage enough glue deeply into the crack to cover all gluing surface areas. TB can be thinned out (about 10%) so as to help it wick into cracks and make the massaging-into-the-crack more effective.

Your photos suggest to me it may be difficult to massage glue deeply into the crack, hence my suggestion for CA. Thin CA will wick very well.
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Old 07-22-2015, 01:03 PM
arie arie is offline
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i would use a ca with a decent amount of open time. you don't want the work to set up before you have it in place.

not a fan of thinned out tb. tb has enough water in it already imo, no need for more and it's just not as strong.

go with the ca.
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Old 07-22-2015, 02:26 PM
redir redir is offline
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The problem with CA in the hands of noobs (not intended to be an offensive word) is that it often times leads to disaster. Titebond says that 10% dilution is perfectly fine with their product. I don't know that you even need to dilute it though if as the OP says there is movement in the back. You can douse it with a lot of Titebond and then 'pump' it into the crack by moving the back in and out. The diluted TB would help but may not be necessary. IMO strength is not imperative on that joint anyway. I don't have the guitar in my hands so I cannot say for sure but those are just some of my thoughts.

I agree CA is an excellent choice but I'm not so sure it is in the hands of a fist time DIY project.
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  #11  
Old 07-22-2015, 03:15 PM
Outhouse Outhouse is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redir View Post
I agree CA is an excellent choice but I'm not so sure it is in the hands of a fist time DIY project.

Not only that but if it ever had to come apart ca is not the way to go, and not used in he first place.

Me? I would tightbond it diluted as suggested, and drop fill the finish. light sand and polish and play.
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  #12  
Old 07-23-2015, 01:22 PM
arie arie is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Outhouse View Post
Not only that but if it ever had to come apart ca is not the way to go, and not used in he first place.
judging by the pictures, i really don't think the op wants that repair to come apart.
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  #13  
Old 07-23-2015, 01:45 PM
Outhouse Outhouse is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arie View Post
judging by the pictures, i really don't think the op wants that repair to come apart.
And tightbond will work for that and is the correct procedure.


With a choice of 2 glues, why not choose the right one?
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