Wenge/Engelman (Bear Claw) OM

[stuw]

I've been working on this for awhile now and its just about done.

Engelman w/claw top
Wenge back, sides, head stock, and rosette.
Leopardwood binding thru out.
Mahogany neck W/leopard wood stripe
Ribbon Mahogany radial purfling.
25.4 scale/Indian Rosewood fret board.
Bridge Goncolo Alves
Finish Z poxy/tru-oil

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Can't wait to see strings on it.

[Viking]

Looks like wood purfling on the top? What kind of wood? Could you get a closeup?

Beautiful instrument.

[stuw]

Nick,
The radial purfling is African ribbon Mahogany/Sapele? not sure which one it actually is...awhile back a friend gave me a bunch of it when he was cleaning out his storage building..I got 8 back and side sets and 7 necks out of it...some folks that have looked at it say its Mahogany.. others say its Sapele.
Hope this picture shows it better.
and Thank you...

Fred give me a week and she'll have strings...forgot to order them and the fret wire...

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[chucksurette]

Nice work - that's beautiful!

[Viking]

That's really cool. Radial purfling is something I want to try on a future build.

[stuw]

Thanks Chuck

Nick It really is not that hard to do... I learned this trick from Grant Goltz up in northern MN.

I put a thin piece of tape around my plexiglass body shape thingy..and more tape underneath it sticky side up. That helps hold the purflings and your wood pieces. The tape keeps your radial purfling from being glued to your form and your work bench.. it comes off pretty easy after drying.

Start from your tail...and just work your way around. Thumb pins hold everything in place while I tack it with 15 second CA. When it's done I flood the whole thing with CA and let it sit for a while. Install it proud...sand it down..and your good to go.

Stu

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Note.. your pieces will break coming around the bouts and in the waist.. I just use a thin blade screw driver to push them back together before glueing them.

[Viking]

Originally Posted by stuw

Note.. your pieces will break coming around the bouts and in the waist.

I wondered if they would break. That's really cool to see a picture of it. So you don't have to use Teflon strips doing it this way, right? You glue it up all at the same time with the binding?

[stuw]

Thats correct..just route your channels for your purfling and binding and glue in... I do the purflings first..let dry..then bindings.

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[Ned Milburn]

Looks pretty.

[Viking]

Originally Posted by stuw

Thats correct..just route your channels for your purfling and binding and glue in... I do the purflings first..let dry..then bindings.

Do you use wood glue to glue the binding and purfling to the top/sides? Or CA glue? Why?

[stuw]

I use titebond..I apply it with a small angled artist brush so I get good coverage where I need glue...You don't need the glue joint to set up real fast..Titebond gives you plenty of time to get things where they need to be...and secured..in my case with old bike tubes. ( I'm sure some folks use fish or hide glue as well)

With CA you also have to worry about "wicking" into your top which can leave a stain...lots of folks put a coat of shellac around the rim before cutting in purfling and binding channels to protect from tear out. also helps with wicking so I'm told..personally never had an issue.

Thanks Ned

Side note... This is the first time I have used radial purfling this wide... will never do it again...thinner strips are easier to work with and the finished look is much cleaner...

[Ned Milburn]

Originally Posted by stuw

I use titebond..I apply it with a small angled artist brush so I get good coverage where I need glue...You don't need the glue joint to set up real fast..Titebond gives you plenty of time to get things where they need to be...and secured..in my case with old bike tubes. ( I'm sure some folks use fish or hide glue as well)

With CA you also have to worry about "wicking" into your top which can leave a stain...lots of folks put a coat of shellac around the rim before cutting in purfling and binding channels to protect from tear out. also helps with wicking so I'm told..personally never had an issue.

Thanks Ned

Side note... This is the first time I have used radial purfling this wide... will never do it again...thinner strips are easier to work with and the finished look is much cleaner...

How have you been enjoying working with the wenge?? It is a great sounding wood!!

[stuw]

Ned.. other than the 3 splinters I got that festered instantly... I love working with this wood.`

It bent like butter..even thou you could hide the grandkids easter eggs in the pores...7 coats of z poxy and they were all gone. No idea what it sounds like yet....no strings on her..but the tap tone is awesone..I bought 2 more sets cause I like it that much

[Ned Milburn]

Originally Posted by stuw

It bent like butter..even thou you could hide the grandkids easter eggs in the pores...7 coats of z poxy and they were all gone.

I fill with shellac and pumice. The wood is certainly long to fill, but color doesn't bleed as much as Indian rosewood, and the harder surface of the dark wood is such that it is easier to pack the pores while at the same time avoiding a build-up of stained shellac in any one place. The tone is superb.

I hope you'll enjoy your guitar's tone. Do you have photos of your bracing...?