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#1
08-12-2017, 09:40 AM
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how to remove an - EPOXIED bridge - arrrrrgh!
my repair guy has my Banner J45 and he thinks the bridge was EPOXIED on at one point. ditto with the saddle. I want to remove the belly down bridge and have him install a period correct plain one. He tells me this is a nightmare to remove. Has anyone ever dealt with this situation? How did it turn out?
 
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#2
08-12-2017, 10:20 AM
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The bridge is not original and neither is the top finish, so saving the bridge is not important. If you're going with a rectangular bridge, then finish touchup will be required. Based on the wear under the finish, it looks like the guitar looks like it's been set up for left handed play at some point. That may explain the refinish and later bridge.
He can set up a jig and route most of the bridge off, then take the remaining slivers off with a small hand plane or chisel. Unrelated to any of that, it appears to be a four-piece top. Interesting stuff with these old guitars.
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#3
08-12-2017, 10:30 AM
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I agree with Todd.
The epoxy is not EASILY removable. Attempting to remove it will likely damage the soundboard. You will have to machine the bridge away.
__________________
Fazool "The wand chooses the wizard, Mr. Potter" Taylor GC7, GA3-12, SB2-C, SB2-Cp...... Ibanez AVC-11MHx , AC-240 Last edited by fazool; 08-12-2017 at 11:03 AM.
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#4
08-12-2017, 10:35 AM
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It looks to me as if the guitar is currently set up for a lefty, but it is strung for a righty. Look at the saddle. Am I crazy?
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#5
08-12-2017, 10:39 AM
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Not crazy at all Mike. I commented on the same thing above. In addition to the saddle, there is considerable wear where a lefty would have hit the top.
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#6
08-12-2017, 10:43 AM
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bridge
Since the bridge is going to have to go anyhow, just chisel and sand down the old one instead of trying to remove it.
__________________
The Bard Rocks Fay OM Sinker Redwood/Tiger Myrtle Sexauer L00 Adk/Magnolia For Sale Hatcher Jumbo Bearclaw/"Bacon" Padauk Goodall Jumbo POC/flamed Mahogany Appollonio 12 POC/Myrtle MJ Franks Resonator, all Australian Blackwood Blackbird "Lucky 13" - carbon fiber '31 National Duolian + many other stringed instruments.
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#7
08-12-2017, 10:56 AM
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Did your repairman tell you that he didn't know how to proceed? Did he ask you to do research for him? This is not an unusual thing to find, so if he did I would suggest finding another repair person.
It can be removed with heat and appropriate tools, or routed off.
__________________
"Still a man hears what he wants to hear, and disregards the rest." --Paul Simon
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#8
08-12-2017, 11:19 AM
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Quote:
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#9
08-12-2017, 11:20 AM
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Routing would require careful matching of the router guide radius to the top radius and then ensuring the router bit is sharp (new). Once thinned down enough a small heating iron, like the type used when covering the framework of radio controlled aircraft, and some cotton cloth can be used to remove the residual layer of epoxy. Cloth over top the epoxy and the iron applied to the cloth should transfer the epoxy to the cloth for peeling off the guitar. A clean section of cloth is used for each heated section of epoxy. This heating iron and cloth method can also be used with good results for removing pick guards.
https://www.hobbyzone.com/building-s...CABEgLxoPD_BwE
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#10
08-12-2017, 11:30 AM
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I'm just amazed at what some of you guys know about fixing stuff to do with guitars. This forum is worth its weight in gold.
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#11
08-12-2017, 11:44 AM
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Epoxy yields to heat, the same as glue. I would try a very thin spatula, heated with a hot air gun, and simply take your time and work it under the bridge. Then you get to deal with the residue. If the issue isn't the bridge coming off, and it looks like it's on there well, but changing it to right hand, I would fill the slot and re-rout it. I'd also leave all the time-worn mojo on, let the thing speak of it's life.
__________________
Brian Evans Around 15 archtops, electrics, resonators, a lap steel, a uke, a mandolin, some I made, some I bought, some kinda showed up and wouldn't leave. Tatamagouche Nova Scotia.
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#12
08-13-2017, 09:53 PM
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least alteration
My own personal opinion here, I like the suggestion of (I think) leaving the bridge in place and filling in the saddle slot and routing one in the correct direction for a right-hand setup. That does the least invasion of the guitar and gets it playable. If that doesn't work out with any satisfaction, then bridge removal can be done, and the guitar won't 'see' any effect from trying the saddle slot fill-and-recut first. If it's done, seeing as the bridge is not original to the guitar, it would be a good time to install a wider saddle, like 1/8 inch, and make sure the saddle is at the correct location for the scale length. Whoever sets up the new saddle might appreciate some extra material to work with.
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#14
08-14-2017, 04:32 PM
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I have routed bridges off in the past, but nowadays I prefer to use a block plane or finger plane. I cut it down to about 0.020" thick, then peel it off. Heating is optional.
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#15
08-30-2017, 07:08 AM
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thanks for the replies! A wealth of knowledge here!
On a related note: Would you expect a significant improvement in tone if the epoxied bridge is removed and replaced with a period-correct rectangle bridge with long saddle? If I have this done then I'm looking at finish repairs too as others have said. My luthier does not do finish work. Any suggestions? here is a crappy pic from a video I took showing the bridge plate:  thanks! Dan
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