3rd Build - first cutaway, first with a Pickup - Page 3

Mary · #31 04-22-2011, 05:22 PM

You have a lot on your plate, Brother. I think you're moving a good pace.

redcloud · #32 04-22-2011, 06:54 PM

Man you are making remarkable strides, and making it look to easy, lol.

Kitchen Guitars · #33 04-23-2011, 12:40 PM

My other distraction....

Back to guitar biz

Yesterday was very productive. I made a Martin style Fret board stencil.

Installed a double action truss rod into the neck. Yep, I bought the neck. LMI 1 piece Mahogany with a very nice volute on the back. My first scratch neck turned out very good. But, I want to have a few more neck builds under my belt before I do one for an order.

Top is on!

Mark plays 2 styles of music. Loud and louder! I put these buttons on for strength at the seam

I am thinking about some copper inlay. I screwed around with relief but didn't like the idea of him getting caught on a protrusion.

redcloud · #34 04-23-2011, 02:59 PM

And you are very creative, too.

Kurt · #35 04-24-2011, 07:57 AM

What?!? Where's the image of that stud Michigan guitarist and his lovely Aussie-pooch pal? Shouldn't that be front-and-center in the display window of the soon-to-open iSimon Studio? You're missing out on a major marketing opportunity there, methinks -- something that will draw the grizzled, aged crowd alongside all those bright, shiny young faces.

Lookin' good, John -- both projects.

Kitchen Guitars · #36 04-24-2011, 06:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kurt

What?!? Where's the image of that stud Michigan guitarist and his lovely Aussie-pooch pal? Shouldn't that be front-and-center in the display window of the soon-to-open iSimon Studio? You're missing out on a major marketing opportunity there, methinks -- something that will draw the grizzled, aged crowd alongside all those bright, shiny young faces.

Lookin' good, John -- both projects.

Thats my Kid and Senior Portrait window. You are in the next window (no kidding) We do a bunch of Executive Portraits and Commercial photographs. They go in in the next week. Good looking or not you ain't 18

i8bugs · #37 04-24-2011, 08:09 PM

[QUOTE= Do you guys radius sand your sides then put in the Kerfing or do you put in the Kerfing, then sand down? I did the later the last 2 builds.

This one I had about 5" of 1/4" low Kerfing. I popped it out like bad teeth and put in a new row.[/QUOTE]

It's too late for this build, but here's something to consider for your next one. Reverse kerfing seems to be gaining in popularity. This is where you glue the tooth side to the wood. Why? Because it's way stronger. Check this out at KMG:
http://www.kennethmichaelguitars.com...SEKERFING.html
Ken has developed a method to do this, but it takes an extra day. I recommend checking this out. He put together a cool experiment to prove his strength theory.
Caveat, I'm still studying up for my first build, which I would be doing if I didn't have my master bathroom gutted

First things first!
BTW, your build is looking great!

Kitchen Guitars · #38 04-25-2011, 04:37 AM

Hi Bug eater

I cut my sides with a stencil so they are close. For sanding I use the big radius dish mounted to the work table. I put in the kerfing first to add strength before I start "Disc Sanding".
I did find if I sprayed the Kerfing with a spritz of distilled water than let my next piece rest on a portable heater till its turn it did bend easier and was much less likely to snap.
The next stuff I'd like to try is Kevin Ryans take on Kerfing. It flexes both ways like those flea Market toy snakes. Which, Kevin admits was his inspiration.

Mary · #39 04-25-2011, 09:26 AM

You are doin' great on both projects, John.

Take a moment to show off the A.S.I.A guitar window!

You can show us Kurt and his pooch, too.

Kitchen Guitars · #40 04-27-2011, 08:00 PM

Welp, the build is stalled. Next week I am going to go out to talk with Tim McKnight about my guitar build by him. I want him to build in a LM Wedge and he has an example for me to check out.
Whileeeee Immmmm thereeee I'll just happen to show him my progress. And pray he doesn't spot the blood and tell me to start over

.
Mean while I will join the back or #4

Mary · #41 04-29-2011, 03:58 PM

I'll tell him to be nice, John. Kurt can wrestle him down for you if need be.

Have you noticed that I keep volunteering Kurt to do my light work.

Kurt · #42 04-30-2011, 07:29 AM

Or else I'll sic that vicious dog of mine on him...

Hang in there, John. It's when you step back, scratch your head and think a bit that you find understanding and progress. Sorry I'm not gonna cross paths with you quite on our mutual pilgrimages to Greater Metropolitan Morral...

Kitchen Guitars · #43 04-30-2011, 06:50 PM

OH! I am not stalled cause' I can't move on. I just need to hear Tim say "rip out this and that". I think he does it for fun. You are not showing???? I moved the date for ya! Your gonna miss Zucchini Lasagna.

Mary · #44 05-01-2011, 02:30 PM

Friday both of you will be here. While Tim and Kurt look over your build, I'll go inside and heat up your lasagna.

arie · #45 05-02-2011, 01:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by i8bugs

It's too late for this build, but here's something to consider for your next one. Reverse kerfing seems to be gaining in popularity. This is where you glue the tooth side to the wood. Why? Because it's way stronger. Check this out at KMG:
http://www.kennethmichaelguitars.com...SEKERFING.html
Ken has developed a method to do this, but it takes an extra day. I recommend checking this out. He put together a cool experiment to prove his strength theory.
Caveat, I'm still studying up for my first build, which I would be doing if I didn't have my master bathroom gutted

First things first!
BTW, your build is looking great!

on our current build the guitar is a small 3/4" slope dred with tight waist and upper bout radii. "un-processed" reverse kerfing snaps like twiggs when forming so tight a contour. i tried it dry and broke a foot or 2 of it up. i then soaked a strip in hot water and this works -but i don't want to have to deal with drying out a piece of kerfing just to use it. it seems unproductive. so we bought an ibex bending iron from lmi and i'm going to heat it up on that and form it to rough shape before installing. i want one smooth unbroken piece on each side with no facets either. we can also use it for binding and tuning up sides fresh out of the bending machine.

right now i'm favoring rough radiusing the bottom and top curvatures to within about an 1/8" or so, installing the kerfing, and then hitting it again to finialize the radii. i want to remove as little of the kerfing as possible.