To Slot or Not?

[OddManOut]

I will have a 12-fret dread build starting in early 2014. I am debating whether or not to go with a slot head.

I love the aesthetics of a slot head. They look so elegant. I dislike the added hassle of changing the strings. So, do I side with practicality and forgo the slot head, or do I suck it up like a 12-fret man should and deal with the extra time and effort of string changes?

Your comments welcome...

[ljguitar]

Originally Posted by OddManOut

...Your comments welcome...

Hi OMO...
If there was an advantage sonically, it might be worth it.

If you didn't, who would notice?

Have you ever changed the strings on a slot head? When I owned one I rarely ever did without stabbing a fingertip or two. And I don't change strings on a workbench, so it never became intuitive.

The one I had, you had to remove all the strings, and string strings 1 & 6 first (ducked under the rest) and then wind strings 3 & 4 the opposite side of the hole in the shaft as 1,2,5,6 because if you didn't they would drag the inside of the slot.

[ChuckS]

If you intend to use round core strings, where you need to install before you clip them to length, changing strings is even more of a pain with a slot head (I got my first slot head last year).

On the other hand, I really like the orientation of the tuner buttons. They are easier to adjust, because you don't have to 'reach around' for the tuners on the three high strings. It's also more intuitive to raise/lower pitch, as the buttons point in the same direction.

[OddManOut]

Originally Posted by ljguitar

Hi OMO...
If there was an advantage sonically, it might be worth it.

If you didn't, who would notice?

Have you ever changed the strings on a slot head? When I owned one I rarely ever did without stabbing a fingertip or two. And I don't change strings on a workbench, so it never became intuitive.

Thanks for your input.

Yes, I have two slot heads at present. I don't think the choice will make any difference in terms of tone, so I approach this as a question of aesthetics vs. practicality.

I am able to get string changes done without stabbing myself, just takes extra time and is a bit exacting. I find myself avoiding it, looking for good coated strings to decrease the frequency of changes, etc..

BTW, I get it done by putting the guitar rear-facing in a cheap guitar stand (doesn't work on my Hercules) so I can apply the necessary tension on the strings as I am winding them, all while the guitar is upright. It works, but is something of a hassle.

[fitness1]

In regard to changing strings, slot heads have never bothered me, I simply put a 90 degree angle in the string, giving about 3" of slack and clipping it off about an inch past the bend. Then put the string through so the bend is up against the top side (closest to you) of the tuner slot, hold it so the slack is out of it and then wind. When you get the guitar to near pitch, just bend the excess so it's not pointing outward.

I've gotten to the point where I don't draw blood or scratch the headstock when I do it now!

I also agree with Chuck about the placement of the tuner buttons and the ease of that.

As far as aesthetics, I think they can be quite attractive - as with this one (Steve's are gorgeous!)

http://www.acousticguitarforum.com/f...d.php?t=207824

[billgennaro]

owned one slot head in my life. don't think i'd ever want to do that again if i can avoid it. you're right, though. they sure do look nice. but, to me, not even close to being worth it.

[arie]

imo mechanical's aside, a slot head is probably not a good look on a 12 fret dred.

[skeeterbuck]

I voted slot head.

To my way of thinking, the dread 12 fret with a slot head is one of the classic acoustic designs.

[Bruce Sexauer]

If you like the look, I do, and you can afford a few more dollars (I charge for it), you'll love it every time you look at it. The difficulty of changing strings on a slot head it overplayed. My personal guitar is a slot head, and once I developed a system I do not believe it takes any more time, or barely any, and in no longer lose control of the strings nor do I pierce my finger. The only addition tool required for my system is an awl, which is used to pull the first winding through the post after which I pull the rest of the windings out of the head; some people use a clipper for this. My version of the slot head is fully sculptural and it is an artistic statement where the guitar faces the world, on other instruments YMMV.

[OddManOut]

Originally Posted by Bruce Sexauer

If you like the look, I do, and you can afford a few more dollars (I charge for it), you'll love it every time you look at it. The difficulty of changing strings on a slot head it overplayed. My personal guitar is a slot head, and once I developed a system I do not believe it takes any more time, or barely any, and in no longer lose control of the strings nor do I pierce my finger. The only addition tool required for my system is an awl, which is used to pull the first winding through the post after which I pull the rest of the windings out of the head; some people use a clipper for this.

Thank you, everyone, for your input thus far. I am intrigued reading about the different methods of stringing a slot head. Fit1, I appreciate you sharing your "angle" on restringing a slot head. Bruce, it seems you "give it your awl."

My version of the slot head is fully sculptural and it is an artistic statement where the guitar faces the world, on other instruments YMMV.

[bozz_2006]

I think they're puuuuuuuurty. And while it was a bit of a pain when i got my first one, but years later, now that I've gotten the hang of it, I doubt I spend an more than 1 extra minute changing strings on the slot head than i do on a guitar with a regular headstock. You're getting a 12-fretter, and my sensibilities say "12-fretters ought to be slot headstocks". That's what I'd go with. Don't worry about it, you'll adapt in short order!

[Bruce Sexauer]

Originally Posted by OddManOut

Bruce, it seems you "give it your awl."

Arrrrrrrrrrr!

[dneal]

Originally Posted by OddManOut

Thank you, everyone, for your input thus far. I am intrigued reading about the different methods of stringing a slot head.

I have two slot heads. I don't find them any harder to string. I use hex-core strings (mainly John Pearse, but D'addario and Martin on occasion).

I converted to "the Taylor method"* many years ago. I find it to be the quickest and easiest way to change strings.

For a slot head, pull the string taught and identify 1 1/2 tuner lengths (2 lengths for the B and E trebles). That's where the string will be cut. The advantage is that it gives you consistent winds.

If you use hex core strings, you can go ahead and make the cut. Insert the string into the hole (maybe 1/8" - 1/4" sticking out the other end) and slowly start winding. When the bend forms, it'll hold. The thinner strings (particularly the unwound trebles) will need a bend smaller than 90 degrees to hold well... Put some tension on it by hand and wind it up with a string winder. If you use round core strings (DR, for example), don't cut the string until after the bend forms, and right before the string wants to come back through the slot head (to avoid scratches). You can cut it then.

Which way to wind (to the inside or outside) varies by guitar. On my Froggy, all strings wind to the inside, because the holes are toward the outside. On my Collings, the E strings go the the outside and the others go to the inside. Taylor's method shows them all going to the outside. I like to minimize the angle from the nut to the shaft. Sometimes the string will rub the center portion of the slot head. Accommodate the specific guitar.

Removal is easy too, when you use this method. Unwind the string, and keep tension with your other hand. It comes out smoothly. This is where a lot of finger pokes happen, if you have "locked" the string by wrapping the loose end around the tight length that runs to the nut (see the 3rd, 4th and 5th pictures on this link). It's hard to get the string out of the hole in that case. I think this originates from classical guitars being tied to prevent slipping. Nylon strings will slip, which is why you tie them (just like the pictures linked). Steel ones won't, which is why you don't need to (that's a sacred cow I just kicked, which some will object to).

* It's known as "the Taylor method" on this forum, although it's been around before the interwebz or Taylor's promotion of it. I learned it from a buddy at at guitar shop.

[Howard Klepper]

So what kind of ordeal are we talking about here? An extra 2-3 minutes, once a month if you change strings regularly? You just wasted more than that reading this thread.

[heavyg]

slot-heads are beautiful I can't have it any other way, stringing is not a problem once you learn how to do it ....