Klepper - SSD curly Oregon Claro - new sound clips added

Originally Posted by rmyAddison

I'm 67, and owned some pretty expensive Martins, actually a LOT of Martins, but never went the custom route...

Well, I'll be 49 this year, and like you, I've owned (and still own) a fair number of Martins. They're from the 1930's through 2012, which is the newest one I own. I enjoy them all for different reasons, both the oldest and newest are stunningly good guitars.

For no particular reason I decided now is the time to try the custom route. I am very excited about this Klepper coming my way. It's been a new and different experience so far. Who knows, it may become a "thing" for me.

[Taylorplayer]

One of these days I do intend to have Howard Klepper build a guitar for me. I just hope I'm still able to play when that happens ;-)

[mcgr40]

cant wait to see this one going. love the tiger stripe in that walnut

Here's where we are right now. Howard is selecting top wood now and the build should begin soon. Most of the decisions have been made. Anything blank has been discussed, but final decisions have not yet been made.

The neck shape and size will be similar to my late 40's Martin necks. I know some will question going with the narrower neck/bridge spacing, and I struggled with the decision too. While I tend to prefer wider necks on newer Martins, I love playing these two guitars and the necks feel perfect in my hand. After careful consideration I think most of the narrower necks on modern Martins are also shallow, and the wider necks are deeper. So, that's where I landed and I've sent Howard detailed measurements of those two necks.

body style.....SSD
finish.....nitrocellulose lacquer
frets clear.....14 fret
scale length.....25.4" nominal
headstock shape.....Martin
head plate tortoise.....celluloid
headstock binding.....none
Klepper logo.....Martin-style decal
tuners.....Schaller Grand Tune nickel scalloped
neck diamond.....yes
neck wood.....mahogany, dark stain
neck reinforcement.....carbon fiber
fretboard wood.....ebony
fretboard inlay.....Style 28, long pattern
fretboard radius.....12"-20" compound
body length.....20"
body depth at neck.....3 3/4"
body depth at tail.....4 3/4"
body width at lower bout.....15"
body width at waist.....9 7/8"
body width at upper bout.....10 7/8"
neck width at nut.....1 11/16"
neck shape.....rounded "C" Klepper
neck depth at 1st.....
neck depth at 5th.....
neck depth at 10th.....
neck width at 12th.....2 1/8"
neck binding.....none
body wood.....curly claro walnut
top wood.....red spruce
top brace wood.....red spruce
top brace style.....Klepper traditional
top binding.....ivoroid
back binding.....ivoroid
end wedge.....ivoroid
heel cap.....ivoroid
top pufling.....herringbone
side purfling.....none
back purfling.....Style 28
rossette style.....Style 28
back strip.....Klepper Pre-WWI arrow
nut material.....bone
bridge type.....pyramid
bridge material.....ebony
saddle style.....drop-in
saddle material.....bone
spacing at bridge.....2 1/8"
pick guard.....Martin D-size tortoise
end pin.....StewMac ivoroid abalone
bridge pins.....StewMac ivoroid abalone
frets.....EVO 80x43
action at nut.....fret height
action at 12th (low E).....0.094" (nominal)
action at 12th (high E).....0.078" (nominal)
relief.....0.005" (nominal)

[BrunoBlack]

Sounds great Todd.

[murrmac123]

Originally Posted by Todd Yates

action at 12th (low E).....0.078" (nominal)
action at 12th (high E).....0.094" (nominal)

You know by now that no typos get past me, Todd ...

An engineer with an error in his spreadsheet. That is embarrassing!

[murrmac123]

Specs are great, Todd ... I'd prefer 1.75" and 2.25" myself, but you know what, I am selling a Fylde guitar (locally) that I have been playing for ages ... I had always assumed it was a 1 3/4" nut but I have just measured it and it is in fact 1 11/16".

Just shows you, if the neck profile and the string spacing at the nut are well executed, the nut width becomes of secondary importance. IMHO.

Murray, I'm sure Howard would have caught that eventually.

I've gone around and around with myself over the neck width. I have examples from 1 11/16" to 1 7/8". While none of them give me trouble, there are three that that feel especially good. Two are 1 11/16" vintage Martins and the other is a newer (2005) Martin. In the end I just decided the 1 11/16 was right for me, for this guitar.

Another consideration is that I often capo, most often at 2 and 3, sometimes at 1 and 4. From 2 on I'm above 1 3/4" at the effective "nut". Of course, the bridge spacing doesn't change, but my flat pick technique doesn't seem to mind.

[Howard Klepper]

I have regularly seen people on the forums call the low pitched E string the "high E," and there is a logic to it: Which string is higher up (from the ground) when the guitar is being played? Similarly, when the guitar is vertical, in a culture that reads from left to right, which is the "first string?"

Back and top are joined. Style 28 rosette set into the top. Howard's own Pre-WWI style arrowhead back strip.

[CoolerKing]

This will be absolutely killer. Loving the combo of walnut and multicolor backstrip.

Here's a closeup of the back strip.




The X-brace went on today. Howard is using some older Swiss Alpine spruce for the braces.

Originally Posted by matthewpartrick

This will be absolutely killer. Loving the combo of walnut and multicolor backstrip.

This path to guitar acquisition is a completely new thing for me. Howard has made it a real pleasure. If he's not careful, I could learn to like doing this.

[searam]

Congratulations! I think Howard is an exceptionally gifted luthier and a great guy! It will be a stellar guitar!