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#1
08-28-2013, 09:21 AM
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What saw blade to cut neck off with
OK, I'm going to do a "hack" neck reset on MY old yamaha.
I figure that I'll just almost cut the neck off leaving just a bit of the heel uncut under the fretboard. I'll do a relief cut on the back of the heel to drill through for screw holes through the heel and pilot into the body heel cap. I'm thinking two 2" sheet rock screws and a couple of finish washers then screw them in pulling the neck back into proper alignment, make a shim, relax the screws/glue/install shim then tighten the screws once again bringing the neck geometry back into good order Maybe a hack saw blade with the tangs filed flat? 
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#2
08-28-2013, 09:35 AM
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Look at the series of webpages on Frank Ford's frets.com starting here: http://www.frets.com/FretsPages/Luth...ichreset1.html
It shows how to do a bolt-on conversion (with threaded inserts for the bolts). The saw used is a special oscillating saw used for medical purposes. This may be overkill for you; part of the job is done using a thin Japanese saw. Last edited by dhalbert; 08-28-2013 at 09:53 AM. Reason: correct saw info
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#4
08-28-2013, 10:24 AM
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Please post pictures of the process if it works.
__________________
Warren My website: http://draudio56.wix.com/warren-bendler "It's hard...calming the Beatle inside of me."
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#5
08-28-2013, 10:52 AM
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TeleAmp's suggestion is good. There are lots of types of Japanese blades, though, so you'd want to look for a "Japanese flush cut" saw. Check out Lee Valley's website. They have a good selection of quality blades.
Also, oscillating blade systems (like the ones doctor's apparently use to cut through bones) can cut cleanly for this operation. They are about 50 bucks or less for a set when on sale at Canadian Tire. The USA likely has similar (probably better) pricing.
__________________
---- Ned Milburn NSDCC Master Artisan Dartmouth, Nova Scotia
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#6
08-28-2013, 10:59 AM
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Sheet rock screws can snap too easily. You might want to research other options. Deck screws are steel and won't snap.
__________________
Guitars: J-45 copy, Stahl Style 6 inspired copy
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#7
08-28-2013, 11:06 AM
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Is it old enough to have a dovetail joint? If so, you should try to get it off without sawing. Pull the 15th fret and drill a small hole in the slot, it should hit the dovetail pocket. That's where the steam needle goes, there's lot's of DIY steam generators. (Like a teapot with a plastic hose to the needle.)
A little heat on the FB extension, a little steam in the hole, and the neck should come loose. Once it's off, you can reset by shimming the dovetail or saw off the dovetail and convert to bolt-on.
__________________
Rodger Knox, PE 1917 Martin 0-28 1956 Gibson J-50 et al
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#8
08-28-2013, 11:11 AM
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i'm partial to these guys for all tools Japanese:
http://www.japanwoodworker.com/?devi...FUSCQgod1BAAfg pricey, but they are the real deal.
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#9
08-28-2013, 11:34 AM
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Quote:
Check this out, pics may not be in order but you can figure it out. Perhaps the best way to do a Yamaha conversion: http://s294.photobucket.com/user/yun...?sort=3&page=1
__________________
Tim B
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#10
08-28-2013, 11:36 AM
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__________________
Guitars: J-45 copy, Stahl Style 6 inspired copy
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#11
08-28-2013, 12:38 PM
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I like a Japanese saw for this operation. A hack saw blade would probably work ok too. Don't forget to shim up the face to take up the space for the saw kerf and any other material that you may remove so that the intonation is set properly.
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#12
08-28-2013, 01:45 PM
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Quote:
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#13
08-28-2013, 03:24 PM
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Quote:
I'm not going to cut the neck completely off so that I will have a pivot point, I'm not worried about the hump that will be at the 14th fret. My rough calculation is that the bottom of the heel needs to be about an eighth of an inch "into the body" to achieve a playable neck.
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#14
08-28-2013, 05:55 PM
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1/8" off the heel sounds like a lot, it would drop the nut by roughly 1/2". A alternative hack method would be to leave the neck joint alone and separate the back from the headblock and linings to a point either side just after you start to go around the shoulders. Then you just fold the whole heel/headblock assembly in and re-glue the back, shave the excess off the back and put the binding back in.
Jim
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#15
08-29-2013, 02:50 PM
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I keep reading advice on these threads about using a Japanese flush cut saw for doing this type of reset, but nobody ever outlines the step by step process explaining what to do when the saw encounters the truss rod.
Attempting blind stopped cuts so's you don't cut through the fretboard is definitely not my idea of fun ...
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