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  #16  
Old 04-09-2017, 08:22 PM
John Arnold John Arnold is offline
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You'd need a very wide piece of wood to make a side out of it that way, so I don't know how practical it would be.
There is no good reason that the cross lamination cannot be made from multiple pieces.

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And I don't know what bending across the grain would do.
Bending cross-grain is easy (no steaming necessary), and even if it cracks on sharp bends, there is no reduction in the function.

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But assuming it was possible, then cracks from blows to the outside would be stopped in their tracks by the cross-grain lamination, wouldn't they?
Yes. The same is true of all laminated Asian guitars, most of which are three ply with a center lamination that is crossways. In general, you want an odd number of laminations for balancing stresses on a flat plate like a top or back. But on a curved side, two-ply works just fine. Two-ply sides with a cross inner lamination has been done before.
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  #17  
Old 04-09-2017, 09:13 PM
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rogthefrog rogthefrog is offline
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Alan, thanks for the fantastic guide. I'll try it out. Good tip about the shellac coat on top. I've been considering a shellac coat on the back (on the inside), so I'll just do the sides as well.

John: thanks for the explanation on lamination.
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  #18  
Old 04-10-2017, 05:41 PM
printer2 printer2 is offline
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Originally Posted by John Arnold View Post
Yes. The same is true of all laminated Asian guitars, most of which are three ply with a center lamination that is crossways. In general, you want an odd number of laminations for balancing stresses on a flat plate like a top or back. But on a curved side, two-ply works just fine. Two-ply sides with a cross inner lamination has been done before.

I found out you need three layers on the top or back.

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  #19  
Old 04-12-2017, 12:32 AM
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rogthefrog rogthefrog is offline
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I found out you need three layers on the top or back.

The Pringles guitar!
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