Routing Binding/Purfling channels - What do you use

[capohk]

Hi All

In my quest to equip my tiny workshop with the most effective tools for each job, I am wondering what people use for techniques/strategies/tools for routing binding and purfling channels on fronts and backs with radii. So far, I have used my laminate trimmer with a bearing attachment, and my dremel router from SM with the same.

Needless to say, I'm looking for a more accurate and time efficient way to do this.

I've looked at the True Channel jig from SM but it gets less than stellar reviews.
The LMI jig looks great but is pricey.
The KMG solution looks great - anyone used that?

All thoughts gratefully received

Matt

[Ned Milburn]

Originally Posted by capohk

Hi All

In my quest to equip my tiny workshop with the most effective tools for each job, I am wondering what people use for techniques/strategies/tools for routing binding and purfling channels on fronts and backs with radii. So far, I have used my laminate trimmer with a bearing attachment, and my dremel router from SM with the same.

Needless to say, I'm looking for a more accurate and time efficient way to do this.

I've looked at the True Channel jig from SM but it gets less than stellar reviews.
The LMI jig looks great but is pricey.
The KMG solution looks great - anyone used that?

All thoughts gratefully received

Matt

[Ben-Had]

Dave Bagwill did a nice demo video of the KMG jig:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EwxVHIfvJqw

[charles Tauber]

I have the True Channel jig from StewMac. It works fine. I have no complaints with the results. It is a bit cumbersome to setup and requires work boards, but otherwise works well.

In my opinion, this is the best jig out there.
http://www.canadianluthiersupply.com...ts/binding-jig

[capohk]

Thanks all

Charles - that jig looks great, it's brave money too.

Ned - is your jig there similar to the KMG IA design? I think that is what I am leaning towards after reading the other threads here and elsewhere. I would prefer not to give up valuable space to one of the larger solutions if it's not necessary.

Cheers

[Ned Milburn]

Originally Posted by capohk

Thanks all

Charles - that jig looks great, it's brave money too.

Ned - is your jig there similar to the KMG IA design? I think that is what I am leaning towards after reading the other threads here and elsewhere. I would prefer not to give up valuable space to one of the larger solutions if it's not necessary.

Cheers

It is a design I came up with independently, but various other jigs are strikingly similar due to the simplicity of the needs in the design. It is meant for hand holding and is pictured upside down for viewing the attachments.

1) side-guide
2) top guide (that intrudes very little onto the top of the guitar)
3) horizontal depth stop adjustment

At some point I wish to add a horizontal depth adjustment wheel to make fine tunings quicker.

[Sam VanLaningham]

Originally Posted by charles Tauber

In my opinion, this is the best jig out there.
http://www.canadianluthiersupply.com...ts/binding-jig

Well, when I was on my first guitar (as I am again....still?), Charles gave the same whole hearted recommendation for the Canadian luthier jig. Indeed it didn't cost $400 but it was up there. It definitely is easy to use: case in point is I didn't like original cream/black/cream binding (sanded through to black in places). I didn't really hesitate once I decided to redo binding and channel as well. Worked like a charm, done in about 2 minutes, honestly......

First (ok 2nd on 1st guitar) binding ever!
L00 before finish by samvanlan, on Flickr

[capohk]

Any users of the KMG IA contraption? The feedback would be very much appreciated

[charles Tauber]

Originally Posted by capohk

Any users of the KMG IA contraption? The feedback would be very much appreciated

I have not used it.

I have no doubt that it will cut rabbets for the binding. The issue that is being addressed by all of these jigs is to produce a rabbet that is consistent in both width and depth around the perimeter of an arched top or back. To do so, there are two reference data used. The first reference, for the width of the rabbet, is to maintain the cutter parallel to the guitar's sides. The second is to control the depth of the cut from the outer surface of the top or back.

The primary difficulty is maintaining the cutter parallel to the guitar sides while traversing the perimeter of the guitar. The Kmg jig provides only a very small physical reference to the guitar side, while requiring the user to support the guitar against its tendency to tilt due to gravity. Provided the user has the skill to maintain the sides parallel to the cutter by pressing the sides against the small "finger" used for reference, it will work fine. The datum is not the piece of foam on which the large surface of the top or back lies. (The tiny horizontal "land" of the jig references the top or back to control depth of cut.)

The other aspect of any jig is how easy it is to set it up. I've long since tired of "fidgety" jigs that require just the right amount of "English" to get the settings right. Once you've fooled with the thing enough, it'll be just right. The alternative is a jig that allows simple, positive, repeatable setup. There is nothing more annoying than a setup that creeps a few thousandths of an inch as you tighten it down and requires repeated trial and error to get it just right. If one is only going to use a jig once, or infrequently, then it doesn't matter too much.

Having used binding cutting jigs like Kmg, it's of the fidgety type. That's fine, but be aware of that at the outset as well as the fact that the jig relies heavily on your skill to maintain the sides parallel to the cutter throughout the cut. (Other jig designs eliminate/reduce reliance on user skill.) Benedetto details a similar method to Kmg, but using custom profiled cutters that eliminate most of the fidgety aspect of the setup. He reports that each cutter cost him several hundred dollars to have custom made.

There are lots of ways to accomplish the task adequately, including just using a laminate trimmer, a chisel and files/rifflers.

[pickitluther]

I use the KMG jig. It's not perfect but works fine for me in my space limited shop.

[bnjp]

I've got the blues creek jig. I have the Ridgid router and John has designed a beautiful way to attach the router to the jig. It is really solid and a nice solution for that process.