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  #16  
Old 03-19-2013, 10:36 AM
KingCavalier KingCavalier is offline
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I would go with the original layout, it's going to make a sweet Guitar.

BTW, Sorry about hijacking your post.

SA
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  #17  
Old 03-19-2013, 11:26 AM
charles Tauber charles Tauber is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stuw View Post
Charles, I tried your suggestion and here's what it looks like.
Looking at the two, I prefer your original orientation.

What I don't like about the wood's figure is the strong "V" at the butt-end of your original orientation. The effect is softened by the use of center strip. I'd personally use a center strip on that back, for that reason.
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  #18  
Old 03-19-2013, 11:37 AM
charles Tauber charles Tauber is offline
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Originally Posted by KingCavalier View Post
I didn't want to do standard wedge so I've been toying with this idea.
I'd suggest that the upper-bout end of the "wedge" be the same width as the heel you are going to use. If not the same width make it REALLY not the same width, else it'll look like they were supposed to match-up but somehow missed.

I'd consider your design in relation to the entire form of the finished guitar. As a whole, if you view it straight-on from the front or back, the guitar is more or less triangular - large at the lower bout, smaller at the upper bout and then at the head comes to a near point. How does the diverging shape of your center strip towards the heel work with the overall converging shape of the guitar as a whole? Do they visually fight each other, or complement each other?

There is also the question of the added difficult of joining/inlaying curved pieces to exactly fit. Is it worth the added effort? (Rhetorical question that only you can answer.) It is much easier to achieve with straight lines, hence the Martin D35.
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  #19  
Old 03-19-2013, 12:50 PM
Tom West Tom West is offline
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Original with no strip.
Tom
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  #20  
Old 03-19-2013, 03:02 PM
Neil K Walk Neil K Walk is offline
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I dunno. It doesn't look happy.
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  #21  
Old 03-19-2013, 07:50 PM
printer2 printer2 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stuw View Post
Charles, I tried your suggestion and here's what it looks like.



I kind of like it. Not sure if I measured wrong yesterday or what, but I sanded off the chalk lines that came with the set and put mine on and it fits...

Thanks for the idea.

What do the rest of you think? original layout or reversed?
Picture quality is not that good. I love this ipad thing, but I'm lousy at taking picutures with it.
For some reason brought back memories of one girl I knew.
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  #22  
Old 03-20-2013, 05:34 AM
KingCavalier KingCavalier is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by charles Tauber View Post
I'd suggest that the upper-bout end of the "wedge" be the same width as the heel you are going to use. If not the same width make it REALLY not the same width, else it'll look like they were supposed to match-up but somehow missed.

I'd consider your design in relation to the entire form of the finished guitar. As a whole, if you view it straight-on from the front or back, the guitar is more or less triangular - large at the lower bout, smaller at the upper bout and then at the head comes to a near point. How does the diverging shape of your center strip towards the heel work with the overall converging shape of the guitar as a whole? Do they visually fight each other, or complement each other?

There is also the question of the added difficult of joining/inlaying curved pieces to exactly fit. Is it worth the added effort? (Rhetorical question that only you can answer.) It is much easier to achieve with straight lines, hence the Martin D35.
Thanks Charles, you're right there's a lot to consider. I'm going to have to think this over some more.

Scott
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  #23  
Old 03-20-2013, 06:28 AM
stuw stuw is offline
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Originally Posted by printer2 View Post
For some reason brought back memories of one girl I knew.
That made me chuckle...

I spent alot of time last night looking at Koa guitars others had made and what binding/purfling combinations they used, and to be honest, nothing jumped out at me.

One thing I did notice is that three of the biggest Taylor, Gibson, and Martin all used plastic (abs) on their Koa's and where selling them for around 3K to 4K. You would think if you where going to spend that kinda of money on a custom guitar it wouldn't be wearing plastic bindings. Maybe that should be another thread. Ok I'm off that soap box.

I did see a Koa mandolin, and a Koa Uke with the faux tortoise binding that actually looked really nice, but they where all Koa, and not a koa/spruce combo.

Thanks for all your imput everyone, guess I need to just keep looking.

I agree with keeping the original, still on the edge about the backstrip. I did see a cocobolo on Koa that looked good, still not sure
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Last edited by stuw; 03-20-2013 at 06:35 AM.
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  #24  
Old 03-21-2013, 06:00 PM
stuw stuw is offline
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I went with the Koa, I ripped it down to 1/4 inch, and dyed it brown to darken it.You cann't really tell in the pics but it does contrast nicely.







Kwakatak, does it look any happier now?
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  #25  
Old 03-21-2013, 06:36 PM
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WaddyT WaddyT is offline
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Yeah! Nice. Best choice beyond none.
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  #26  
Old 03-21-2013, 07:33 PM
charles Tauber charles Tauber is offline
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Good choice.
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  #27  
Old 03-21-2013, 08:30 PM
Neil K Walk Neil K Walk is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stuw View Post
I went with the Koa, I ripped it down to 1/4 inch, and dyed it brown to darken it.You cann't really tell in the pics but it does contrast nicely.







Kwakatak, does it look any happier now?
Yeah. I swear the other way had a face in it.
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