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  #1  
Old 04-30-2017, 02:39 PM
JLT JLT is offline
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Default Parlor Guitar top radius (if any)

I'm building a parlor-size guitar, and notice that the plans don't have any specification for what sort of radius the top braces have. A search of the various websites and fora seem to indicate that some people use a 30' radius, while others don't use any radius at all, on the grounds that a guitar that small doesn't need them as much, and suffers in tone if domed.

At this point, I can build it either way, but I thought I'd ask the hive mind about what they've found when bracing parlor guitars ... what you've used, how it worked.
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Old 04-30-2017, 04:17 PM
printer2 printer2 is offline
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I have been building smaller guitars since I started. I find they are better with some dome to give them a better chance against getting cracks if they have some radius. I have a 25' and 15' dish but don't think I necessarily end up with those the way I build.
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Old 04-30-2017, 04:26 PM
Howard Klepper Howard Klepper is offline
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You won't get any hive mind information from me, but I am wondering what size you call "parlor" and who drew the plans.
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Old 05-01-2017, 12:03 PM
JLT JLT is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Howard Klepper View Post
You won't get any hive mind information from me, but I am wondering what size you call "parlor" and who drew the plans.
The basic plan is the one Scott Antes drew up some years back, although I've made note of the drawbacks of the plan that other luthiers have remarked on (overbracing, confusing drawing, etc.) and have made the necessary revisions.

FWIW, this plan seems to be similar to the Martin 2 size, according to what people have said.
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Yamaha FG-411-12 String
Oscar Teller 7119 classical (built in 1967)
and a bunch of guitars and mandolins I've made ... OM, OO, acoustic bass, cittern, octave mandolin, mandola, etc. ... some of which I've kept.
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  #5  
Old 05-02-2017, 08:36 PM
Truckjohn Truckjohn is offline
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My top curve depends on the guitar size, bracing plan, bridge scheme, and sound I am aiming for.... I currently have 2 top radius dishes and have also built dead flat. All have worked out fine.

A more highly curved top adds more inherent stiffness than a flatter top. Often - parlor guitars suffer from being too stiff rather than too loose... And so I feel less radius is desirable. For an X braced parlor (14" or less across the lower bout) I generally do either true flat or 65' radius. Ladder braced guitars I have built this size bave gotten 28' because the ones I have built use tailpieces and floating bridges - which push down instead of pulling up. If you were going to use a fixed/glued string thru bridge (pinned or pinless) - the top will pull up instead of pushing down... In that case - 65' would probably work fine.

The guitars I built flat flat sounded just fine.... Maybe a touch "warmer" and "older" sounding out of the gate.... I like the sound... And it works just fine.
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Old 05-03-2017, 08:58 AM
redir redir is offline
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I don't put any arch on a parlor guitar, but then I don't put an arch on any guitar

At least not in the lower bout anyway. I do arch the UTB. I just make sure to brace them dry then I let string tension pull the arch into it. I think you will be fine either way on a small parlor.
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Old 05-04-2017, 05:19 PM
JLT JLT is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redir View Post
I don't put any arch on a parlor guitar, but then I don't put an arch on any guitar

At least not in the lower bout anyway. I do arch the UTB. I just make sure to brace them dry then I let string tension pull the arch into it. I think you will be fine either way on a small parlor.
I think that's the way I'll build it. Thanks to all for their comments.
__________________
Yamaha FG-411-12 String
Oscar Teller 7119 classical (built in 1967)
and a bunch of guitars and mandolins I've made ... OM, OO, acoustic bass, cittern, octave mandolin, mandola, etc. ... some of which I've kept.
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Old 05-04-2017, 05:49 PM
redir redir is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JLT View Post
I think that's the way I'll build it. Thanks to all for their comments.
If you want to do it that way then I should add that I also cant the top from the sound hole forward to create an angle so that the neck is set just right. Once you flatten the top rims out then, depending on the guitar (do the math), it's about 3/32nd of an inch lower at the head block body joint angled up to the front tip of the sound hole then flat the rest of the way back in the lower bout.
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  #9  
Old 05-13-2017, 06:33 PM
JLT JLT is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redir View Post
If you want to do it that way then I should add that I also cant the top from the sound hole forward to create an angle so that the neck is set just right. Once you flatten the top rims out then, depending on the guitar (do the math), it's about 3/32nd of an inch lower at the head block body joint angled up to the front tip of the sound hole then flat the rest of the way back in the lower bout.
I've built octave mandolins that way and it makes sense. Thanks for the tip.
__________________
Yamaha FG-411-12 String
Oscar Teller 7119 classical (built in 1967)
and a bunch of guitars and mandolins I've made ... OM, OO, acoustic bass, cittern, octave mandolin, mandola, etc. ... some of which I've kept.
Reply With Quote
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