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  #31  
Old 05-12-2017, 11:40 AM
SnowManSnow SnowManSnow is offline
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Originally Posted by BradHall View Post
I'm sure more knowledgable builders than me will chime in. I set the nut on the fingerboard side ahead of the headstock rake. That way the base of the nut is 90deg. to the fingerboard. The top. Side of the nut gets a radius up to the tuners anyway, so I see no advantage to setting the nut at an angle.


My issue is if I do this it moves the fretboard down so that the 14th doesn't meet the body.


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  #32  
Old 05-12-2017, 11:49 AM
Halcyon/Tinker Halcyon/Tinker is offline
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What Brad said, for next time.

It is way easier to extend the fingerboard plane to include the width of the nut. When you're laying out the blank, mark the angle transition point, add width of nut, add length of FB to body, add 1mm for wiggle room when angling the neck, and that becomes the length of the neck blank.

For this one, you need to sand the correct angle into the bottom of the nut blank.

Have fun while you discover why so many of us do it the easy way
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  #33  
Old 05-12-2017, 11:51 AM
SnowManSnow SnowManSnow is offline
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Originally Posted by Halcyon/Tinker View Post
What Brad said, for next time.

It is way easier to extend the fingerboard plane to include the width of the nut. When you're laying out the blank, mark the angle transition point, add width of nut, add length of FB to body, add 1mm for wiggle room when angling the neck, and that becomes the length of the neck blank.

For this one, you need to sand the correct angle into the bottom of the nut blank.

Have fun while you discover why so many of us do it the easy way

I will enjoy this and remember it for many lifetimes I'm sure
The fingerboard was precut, though. I didn't trim off anything. I guess that alone locked me in to having to do it like this.


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  #34  
Old 05-12-2017, 12:00 PM
BradHall BradHall is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SnowManSnow View Post
My issue is if I do this it moves the fretboard down so that the 14th doesn't meet the body.


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I set the nut location to work from when I cut the scarf joint. You can determine the 14th (or 13 or 12) fret/body location and measure up to the top side of the nut. This is where the angle for the headstock will begin. Leave it a tad long and zero it in when you plane the joint. You can use your pre-cut to length fingerboard clamped to the neck blank as a template and just add the nut depth prior to cutting.


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  #35  
Old 05-12-2017, 12:05 PM
SnowManSnow SnowManSnow is offline
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Yes see this is where I'm a noob and am having some conflict. My neck was precut and so was the FB. Just some aspects that don't Je and Ha


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  #36  
Old 05-12-2017, 12:21 PM
BradHall BradHall is offline
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Don't be too hard on yourself. I'm a beginner also and made the exact mistake for the same reasons. I have a nice 13th fret/body join that wasn't planed to be. Plays just fine. I learn several lessons on each build. Usually right after I made the mistake! The great folks on this forum have been very gracious in helping out. Two of the most important lessons I've learned are; plan ahead & take notes, and gather >all< the materials for the build ahead of time.
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  #37  
Old 05-13-2017, 08:24 AM
John Arnold John Arnold is offline
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Martin nuts have traditionally been on the slope. I like them better for several reasons....the most practical being that they are easier to remove.
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  #38  
Old 07-15-2017, 12:10 PM
SnowManSnow SnowManSnow is offline
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Done with number 3! Still not as sweet as I like, but I've learned so much by doing. Can't wait to rinse and repeat (only better)!!!


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  #39  
Old 07-15-2017, 12:33 PM
Halcyon/Tinker Halcyon/Tinker is offline
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Right on!

......
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  #40  
Old 07-15-2017, 07:54 PM
Albert D Albert D is offline
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Man, that looks nice. Congratulations.
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  #41  
Old 07-15-2017, 08:01 PM
SnowManSnow SnowManSnow is offline
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Man, that looks nice. Congratulations.


Thank you
I'm enjoying the process
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