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  #1  
Old 09-23-2016, 09:11 AM
Szk Szk is offline
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Default What planes are jointing, thicknessing ?

I'd like to start using more hand tools, for jointing tops/backs and thicknessing and stuff. So what model planes should I be on the lookout for? Also what sharpening system?
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Old 09-23-2016, 01:16 PM
Alan Carruth Alan Carruth is offline
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Generally in may be easier to get a good joint with a longer plane, all else equal. OTOH, I've done all of my jointing and smoothing with the same #4 Record 'smooth plane' for forty+ years. The keys to getting the results you want with a plane are to get it properly tuned up, and keep it sharp.

Most of the planes you see on the market now should be considered as 'plane kits': a box of parts that can be made into a good working tool with some effort. The exceptions are the higher end ones from places like Lee Valley or Lie-Neilson. With those you pay up front to have somebody else tune them up. It can be well worth it.

If you know what you're looking at you might be able to find a vintage plane that has been tuned up and is in good shape. Be thankful.

Sharpening tends to be a pretty individual thing: what works well for you might not for me and vice versa. It's probably more a matter of persistence than the actual system. That said, you do need to have a number of different abrasives to get to a smooth surface, and be able to hold angles pretty well. Once you get the hang of some system you'll be able to get good results. Locally a lot of the better wood workers sharpen on a belt sander; it's fast and works well for them. I use an assortment of stones lubricated with water. Other folks have other preferences.
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Old 09-24-2016, 06:37 AM
Ned Milburn Ned Milburn is offline
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I got a 15" Lee Valley low angle plane (various blades available to achieve different angles, from low to high angle). It was not cheap, but I used it out of the box without even honing the blade. Very highly recommended. This can be used for joining and thicknessing.

As much as possible, I'd recommend a higher quality plane. Ease of adjustability of the blade depth and throat is key!!
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Old 09-24-2016, 06:50 AM
B. Howard B. Howard is offline
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Strictly for guitar building I see no need for a plane any larger than a #4. You will find that how they are set up and sharpened will have a bigger effect on how well they work for any particular wood and situation

For thicknessing, especially in figured woods, I have a #3 set up with a tooth blade for stock removal. Followed by a #4 set as a slight jack blade to knock off the nibs and finish with my #114. But for spruce plates I simply use the #4 jack for all the work and finish with a card scraper...
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Old 09-25-2016, 02:53 PM
mikewaz mikewaz is offline
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Szk - I've challenged myself lately to minimize power tools and get really good with traditional hand tools. So, far I've really enjoyed it.

I have a handful of planes, but the two I really like and use the most are the No. 4 and the Lee Valley low angle jack.


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Old 05-08-2017, 04:07 PM
Szk Szk is offline
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What chisels should i be looking at? What other hand tools are a must?
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Old 05-08-2017, 06:41 PM
M Hayden M Hayden is offline
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Typically (in Stanley Works parlance):
- a #4 is a smoothing plane
- a #5 is a "jack" (jack-of-all-trades) plane
- a #7 or #8 is a jointer.

I have various variations on the above, and use the long planes to joint tops and backs.

A low-angle block plane like a #9 or a #220 is also useful.

Tiny brass finger planes are great for brace shaving.

Chisel-wise, a good base is a glue clearing chisel (bent) and a bunch of Japanese paring chisels from 3mm (1/8") to 19mm (3/4"). They're amazing....

a couple of mortise chisels doesn't hurt either thought they're not absolutely necessary.

As far as sharpening, any system works if you spend time learning to use it. Scary sharp (sandpaper), diamond stones, water stones, etc.....you have to learn how.
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Old 05-08-2017, 07:19 PM
charles Tauber charles Tauber is offline
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All good responses.

There was a fairly detailed discussion of hand planes here about a month ago. Rather than repeat that, I suggest looking for that discussion.

As has already been said, sharpening is a matter of personal preference as to what methods to use.

Chisels for guitar making don't need to be anything special but, like planes, need to be setup well to work and be of good steel. Like planes, most chisels, but for the expensive ones, can be considered a kit. You either pay someone else to do the setup work so they come mostly ready to use or you put in the work yourself. Beyond that, again, its personal preference what chisels to use.
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Old 05-08-2017, 08:53 PM
printer2 printer2 is offline
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I picked up a 4 1/2 and a 5. What angle should I sharpen them to?
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Old 05-08-2017, 09:03 PM
charles Tauber charles Tauber is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by printer2 View Post
I picked up a 4 1/2 and a 5. What angle should I sharpen them to?

Depends on a bunch of things, including the bedding angle of the blade/iron, the hardness of the wood you are planing, whether bevel up or down, the specifics of the grain ("wild" or not) you are planing.

Also depends upon whether or not you want to sharpen with a secondary bevel or not - some do, some don't.

Probably the most common angle for general woodworking is either 25 or 30 degrees. 25 degrees produces a "sharper" edge, but less robust, meaning it chips, breaks and dulls faster on harder woods. A common secondary bevel is between 2 and 5 degrees.
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Old 05-08-2017, 09:48 PM
M Hayden M Hayden is offline
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30 degrees is probably easier, and as Charles notes it produces a more robust edge.

Other things to think about:
- how tight is the mouth set? This is set by moving the frog, the piece beneath the blade, forward to close the mouth or back to open it. Finer mouths can be good for less tearout.
- how does the cap iron fit? It should be flush with the blade surface at the bottom, or else it will catch chips instead of turning them, which can lead to clogging and tearout.
- Is the sole flat?
- is the blade bed on the frog adequately flat?

Christopher Schwartz has a good video on minimal setup for planes here:
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=WAYcwubAO2E
If your planes are old and beat up, the fine Woodworking videos about complete setup which Schwartz refers to are here, done by Garrett Hack, who knows his way around a hand plane.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=AzDygUaWGj0

Last edited by M Hayden; 05-08-2017 at 09:56 PM.
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  #12  
Old 05-08-2017, 10:01 PM
tadol tadol is offline
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30 is easiest - when the bevel is twice as long as the thickness of the blade, you got 30 - longer is less, shorter is more. Most important thing about your planes and chisels is to get them really sharp, hone them when they just start to feel dull, and treat them with the utmost respect - having a special spot in a drawer, or a notched block to lay them in, so they can never roll or get knocked off a bench, or cause damage to a finish piece or yourself. Most planes can be set-up pretty well - its the quality of the steel in the blades that matters most. Hard steel can hold an amazing edge for a very long time, but is more brittle and can be much harder grind and to sharpen. Softer steels wont hold an edge quite as long, but are much easier to touch up and resharpen. You can find alot of good chisels at flea markets and garage sales - the old ones may need a little clean up, but for the price, they can potentially be fantastic. Get some really cheap yard sale chisels and practice your grinding and sharpening. Wet/dry sandpaper on a piece of granite tile works great, and is very inexpensive. Diamond stones are a good investment too, as long as they're flat -
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Old 05-09-2017, 06:28 AM
redir redir is offline
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As for chisels I would recommend you look at the Stanley 750 set you can get for about $80 bucks. I've only played with them a bit as a friend had ordered them last year but was impressed enough to consider getting a set even though I don't need them
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Old 05-09-2017, 10:08 AM
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Bruce Sexauer Bruce Sexauer is offline
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I use a German made wooden joining plane I bought from Bill Lewis Music Supply nearly fifty years ago for $15. Bill sold his business to a couple of guys in California who changed the name to Luthier's Mercantile. I just looked up the plane on the LMII website and they no longer list anything in the category. I guess that's because they instead offer a plate joining service. The times they are a changin'.
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